Originally Posted by nadera17
It's funny you joke about airplanes because I live in Virginia beach which has the highest navy concentration in the world and the navy has the most planes so jet noise is ridiculous here! I use your deadening project post as a blue print but I wondered why you put the ccf and mlv just behind the panel and the tiles/dynamat on the outer most part of the door. Seems like it'd be the other way around...
Well, if airplane noise IS a concern then here is what I'd do. Go to SDS (sounddeadenershowdown.com) and check out Don's HH-66 vinyl adhesive. You use it between the foam and the vinyl to create a permanent bond. It's not a glue, it's a contact cement so you really don't have to worry about it ever giving up. I bonded two pieces together accidentally and I had to rip the foam to get them to come apart.
When you've bonded them I'd use silicone to bond the piece to the roof. Silicone is a wondrous material. It stays very flexible, waterproof, and holds a freakin shit ton of weight per square inch. If you can find a way to hold each piece up on the ceiling for about 5 hours to let it cure it will be there forever.
As for the order of my materials that I put in the doors...there is a method to the madness. The deadening goes on any surface that is resonant. Areas that are large and flat with minimal convolutions are prime suspects. As you are probably thinking, the outside most piece of metal forming the door is the most resonant part of the entire car. That's why the deadener goes on that panel. However, you still need some on the inside skin metal of the door too. You need to seal up those holes in the door and kill any would be resonances there too. Since the speaker is mounted in this metal it's very important to try and kill vibrations at the source. The MLV is then mounted between that layer and the plastic door piece to prevent ANY noise (resonance, rattles, road noise, wind noise) from getting past that point into where the speaker is firing.