Supersuks 2010 Tacoma Audio Build

I've always wanted to have a higher end stereo in my car or in this case my 2010 double cab Tacoma. SQ within a reasonable budget was one of the goals in my build. However, knowing that all double din receivers are not regarded as SQ headunits, I had to sacrifice somewhere. I just can't get away from watching videos in my truck while waiting for my girlfriend or daughter to finish whatever they are doing. HAHA. I have gathered almost all of the pieces for my build and have been slowly installing them. I'll be updating this page and including more pictures as I start to build things and install them over time.

The setup I am planning to install is the following:

• Alpine iXA-W407
• Alpine PXA-H700:
• JL Audio Slash 300/4 V2
• JL Audio Slash 300/2 V2
• JL Audio Slash 250/1 V1
• Vifa XT25 dual ring radiator tweeters
• Peerless HDS Exclusive 4" mids
• Peerless SLS8 8" Midbass
• Dayton Audio HO10 10" Subwoofer
• Raammat and Ensolite everywhere

Currently installed (interim while I build my kicks and apillars):

• Alpine iXA-W407
• Alpine PXA-H700
• JL Audio Slash 300/4 V2 for the Helix Mids and Tweets
• JL Audio Slash 250/1 V1 for the Sub
• Helix 6.5" Components in the doors
• Dayton Audio HO10 10" Subwoofer in a ported box.

The helix components were from my other 08 tacoma extra cab that was returned to stock and sold to get my 2010.


This is my Headunit installed using the Metra kit from Crutchfield. Everything went in smoothly without any rattles. The OEM metal brackets were used instead of those flimsy plastic brackets supplied with the kit.



The first thing I built was the sub box/amp rack. A ported configuration was used for the Dayton Sub. The enclosure volume is 0.67 cu. ft. with two 2” ports facing the drivers side of the cabin. Here are some pics of the box:

 

Last night I received my speaker rings and adapters from Mr. Marv and am ready to start constructing my front stage. Mr. Marv has been very helpful and his work is utterly flawless! Everything fits perfectly and is top notch. BTW, if anyone is interested, I believe Mr. Marv has a set of these in MDF ready to ship out. They will fit the Dayton RS225-4 8" Midbass drivers with no problem.





The adapters for the front doors were made of birch to hold the 8" Peerless SLS8 Midbass drivers. Due to the depth of these monsters I need to space them out approximately 1-1/4" from the door to clear the window. The additional rings you see are additional spaces just incase I need a little more room. The medium size rings you see are for my peerless HDS exclusive 4” mids which will be glassed into my kick panels.



This is an overall view of my front stage. Hopefully i’ll start glassing everything in starting next week after I buy all the resin, fillers, fiberglass, etc. For now I’ll just start aiming and testing the angles and locations.

[FONT=&quot]The Alpine PXA-H700 was installed under the drivers seat and the JL Audio Slash 300/4 was installed under the passenger seat. I forgot to take pictures of the sound deadening process and the installation of the amp and processor. When I go back in there I’ll open it back up to take more pics….Hopefully I’ll remember. The JL Audio 250/1 is currently sitting on the floor of the rear drivers side until the JL audio 300/2 comes in and I am able to finish the amp rack. [/FONT]

 

looks good. but with that small of an enclosure, wouldn't you want it sealed?

 

Nope, this sub was made for small ported boxes which is the reason why I chose it. Some have tried these in a sealed box and was not impressed by the sound quality and output. In a small ported box, I am seriously amazed by how much output there is down low. MUCH MUCH better than what my JL12W3, RE Audio RE12, or Two RE Audio REX10's could do. This is all using the same amp. The sound quality and output of this subwoofer on just 250 watts is amazing. I will be upgrading to a JL Audio slash 500/1 amplifier to give me some headroom when I am done with the build. For now the output is more than enough.

 

awesome.. good to know man. Keep the pictures coming.

 

That dayton is a nice sub. I put one in a friends Tuburon. Those exclusive mids are hard to come by now days. A while back I saw someone scooped up a bunch of them and was selling them on DIYMA...did you cash in on that?

I've been looking at doing SLS8's in the doors for a while too. I'm wanting to use the Trio8 if we get any more of those. Bob at CSS is working on the new version.

 

The exclusive mids I purchased from a company in Canada since I couldn't find them anywhere. I think it was solex electronics? Or something along those lines...

I'll let you know how the SLS8's do in the doors. Since the SLS8's are 8 ohm, I dunno if they would match the volume output of everything else. I also have a set of Dayton Audio Rs225 8" that fit those adapters too as a backup plan. This way, I could use the 300/2 to power the Exclusive mids since they're 8 ohms too and use two channels of the 300/4 to give 75 watts to the dayton 8"ers...Well, we'll see when I put everything together.

 

What's the sensitivity of the SLS8's and the Eclusive 4's? Even though they are 8ohm their efficiency is probably plenty to keep up. And regardless, that's what your gain knob is for. Did you check the depth on those Dayton 8's? Those are quite deep if I remember correctly.

PS: I bet it was Solen in Canada. Good guy.

 

When looking at the specs, the sensitivity of the SLS8's = ~87dB and the Exclusive = ~85dB. I guess I could mess with the gain knob and turn the tweeters lower then everything else since I have the ability to adjust levels on the processor and the amp.

The depth on the Dayton 8"s is less then on the SLS8's so i'm in good shape. If the SLS8's fit, the daytons will fit. I just hope there's enough clearance between the door panel and the speaker. I already shaved a lot of the plastic support ribs away on the speaker grill of the panel. Hopefully that will be enough.

 

I think you'll be fine in terms of 8ohms/sensitivity and everything else. And I agree, the daytons will make a nice backup. I'll be keeping an eye on this to see if the SLS8's fit, those are my backups for the Trio8's

 

I got some work done this weekend, basically finished up the subbox and amp rack with carpet and permanently routed all the wires. The carpet color doesn’t match the OEM carpet well, but it does match the color of the plastic panels…


Finished product




Amps installed




I also got around to test fitting the 8” adapters for the Peerless SLS8’s, however my measurements were wrong and was about an 1/8” too shallow. It’s a good thing that I have my Dayton RS225-4 8”ers! These fit perfectly without hitting the glass. Although, some modifications to the door panel were necessary to make em fit. First off, I had to trim away all the excess grill support material on the inner part of the door panel. Then I had to heat up the upper portion of the grill area to make the plastic soft enough to mold an indentation to clear the frame of the Dayton 8”.

Brass threaded inserts were used to hold the speaker in.




Test fit in the doors.




Door panel mod.

 

I like the heat idea...bloody brilliant. I did the same thing with a 4" port tube one time. I held it over the stove and bent it little by little.

 

So this past weekend I was able to work on the drivers side kick panel a little bit. All I could do was cut the drivers side panel, position the speaker, pull some stretchy cloth over the ring and panel, apply resin and one layer of fiberglass mat and start to apply/sand the evercoat rage extreme filler.

Stretching the fabric over the panel and using CA glue to hold it down was a pain in the ass... I found that really difficult. What I did was stretch the cloth over and used those cloth pins to hold it down while I applied the CA glue.





The resin was applied and one coat of fiberglass was laid over it to give some strength. I was thinking that I should've used some duraglass instead, but it looks to be fine the way it is...maybe less itchyness? HAHAHA



One thing I learned was that the rage extreme has a very short working time, about 5 mins or so. Therefore I have to make it in small batches to not waste and get a smooth application since I don't work too fast and apply it in small sections at a time. I really dislike this sanding phase...





I know its ugly right now, but I'll try and work on it more tonight. I have to sand a lot more of that filler off to get the general shape. Then i'll apply more filler to the areas that I missed. Then I can start sanding it with finer grit sandpaper to get rid of those deep scratches from the 40 grit that i'm using to shape it. Hopefully i'll have the final product ready to apply the primer and texture coat tonight. Then its off to the passenger side. =(

 

Very nice, this is on my to do list soon as the L4SE Hybrid's come out. These look very familiar to what AzTRD did to his.

What are you putting in there?

The only real thing I am worried about is having room in the kicks for the speaker, with all the cable connections/harnesses and what not back there.

 

Thats where I got my inspiration!! His kicks are so nice. Just hope that mines turns out halfway decent...

I don't know how he was able to install everything with the speaker placement like that. I tried to push the ring further in however, the magnet from the speaker was hitting all the wires back there even after I used some zipties to hold it further in. With my placement, I just have to push the wires in a little bit to have these suckers fit. I do lose some room for my feet, but I doesn't bother me one bit. The only thing I was worried about was to make these strong since I will end up hitting it while going in and out of the car. The passenger side must be fairly strong since my daughter and girlfriend are pretty clumsy and will hit the pods with their shoes, heels, bags, etc.

I'll be putting in some peerless HDS exclusive 4" mids.

 

Nice, his write up was my inspiration for giving it a try as well. I'm anxious to see how yours turn out and look when installed. My main thing is I want to be able to use my e-brake.

I would like to mount mine (or at least look at possibly) flat against the kicks aiming right at each other, but I'm not sure that's possible with what's behind the kicks.

 

That will be difficult without having the speakers protruding from the panel ~2-3" if you want to clear the wires in that area. Although, you might not be able to use the ebrake...

One thing you can do is to lose the footrest altogether and build a pod there? Seems to be enough room to mount everything unless you have huge feet...

 

Nice job so far. Can't wait to see the finished product.

I'm glad you tried out the 8" woofer...it gives me hope that I can fit my similar sized woofer behind the stock trim too (thanks to your brilliant molding of the plastic with the heat gun)!!!

 

I did more sanding on the kicks to get a better general overall shape, but it took me the entire night just to get it somewhat right. The curves are so hard to shape correctly. Tonight i'll apply more filler to the parts that I missed. Hopefully it'll be finished by tomorrow night. I'll update when its ready to paint.

Anyone got any tips to sand around curves? its just not easy for me...I feel like i'm doing it the extremely hard way. LOL