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Speakers (no amp for now).

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by willimatic, Aug 28, 2011.

  1. Aug 28, 2011 at 1:36 PM
    #1
    willimatic

    willimatic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I recently installed a JVC double din and was thinking about new speakers. I realize they will always sound better when amped but how would they sound being powered by my HU (20 rms).

    For example, the Alpine Type S speakers give a range of 2-75 RMS, clearly being 20 rms that is on the low range but will they sound better than the stock speakers? Or are they being underpowered too much?

    Polk Audio has a few I saw that list 5-65RMS as well?

    Thoughts?
     
  2. Aug 28, 2011 at 6:45 PM
    #2
    06SR5canada

    06SR5canada Well-Known Member

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    i doubt you'd get 20 watts from a headunit to each speaker, you dont need to worry about underpowering.

    pretty much anything will sound better than stock

    absolute best bang for the buck speakers are pheonix gold rsd series

    alls i did was replace my front 2 6x9's to some crappy JL's i had lying around and it made a huge diff, even my girl noticed.

    dont waste your money on JL over priced and over hyped
     
  3. Aug 28, 2011 at 7:02 PM
    #3
    willimatic

    willimatic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Cool, thanks man. I have an old phoenix gold sub and amp, zero complaints. Thing was amazing. Ill check those speakers out.
     
  4. Aug 28, 2011 at 7:47 PM
    #4
    06SR5canada

    06SR5canada Well-Known Member

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    honestly read some of the reviews, you'll be amazed at what people say about a set of speakers under $100 apparently they were designed/built in part with morel.

    i had a set in my blazer on 75 watts each, sounded great, not harsh, clear at high volumes, its only been my 2nd set of comps that ive owned so its hard for me to give a good comparative review.

    they took 75 watts with ease with the cross over set properly (around 70-80hz) i really wish i hit them with 150 each, but my doors sucked on that thing....anyway theres better out there of course but for the price, fantastic :p
     
  5. Aug 28, 2011 at 7:52 PM
    #5
    Tacomanator

    Tacomanator Well-Known Member

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    King 2.5" extended travel coilovers with compression adjusters, Camburg UCA's, King 2.5" rear shocks, TRD 1st gen CAI.
    My Kenwood head (22 watts rms) powers my door speakers good enough for me, a lot better than stock. I do plan on amping them eventually, though.
     
  6. Aug 28, 2011 at 8:08 PM
    #6
    06SR5canada

    06SR5canada Well-Known Member

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    your speakers might see that 22wrms if you run a 50hz sine wave at max volume with everything else turned up.

    music is dynamic, therefore everything fluctuates
     
  7. Aug 28, 2011 at 8:12 PM
    #7
    Tacomanator

    Tacomanator Well-Known Member

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    King 2.5" extended travel coilovers with compression adjusters, Camburg UCA's, King 2.5" rear shocks, TRD 1st gen CAI.
    How many watts do you think i'm really getting then?
     
  8. Aug 28, 2011 at 9:29 PM
    #8
    mattg43

    mattg43 Well-Known Member

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    it doesnt matter. Anything over 16, but less than 32 watts will not be a difference worth worrying about.
     
  9. Aug 28, 2011 at 10:33 PM
    #9
    willimatic

    willimatic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What speakers are you running of your HU?
     
  10. Aug 28, 2011 at 11:03 PM
    #10
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    The biggest difference between a deck powered system, and an amplified system is the 'fullness' of the sound. For instance, you do a full sweep with a subwoofer installed in the system and you will notice a huge cutoff in the mid-bass output. Install an amplifier and you'll get a smooth bass transition during a sweep, and you won't be able to tell where your sub cuts out and your doors come in.

    We need to butt heads man, I'm off tommorow, what are you up to? I'll let you check out my system. I'm amped for the doors, but still running the JBL amp for now. I have a JL 300/4 to install whenever I can get ahold of some MDF speaker rings. I need to get rid of the stupid plastics. Once thats complete, then my system will be 90% JL Audio. The only exception being the subwoofer, which is a rockford shallow mount

    I don't care what people say, I have been addicted to JL audio since day one. They are extremely underrated and people who say they're junk don't know how to set a stereo up properly and blow their equipment within weeks. You'll see when I get my system finished :)



    Edit, I'm not cracking on Phoenix Gold either, I would probably buy them over JL, but JL is far from junk :)
     
  11. Aug 28, 2011 at 11:25 PM
    #11
    Tacomanator

    Tacomanator Well-Known Member

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    King 2.5" extended travel coilovers with compression adjusters, Camburg UCA's, King 2.5" rear shocks, TRD 1st gen CAI.
    I'd rather buy JL over PG. PG aint what they use to be...

    JL's good stuff ;)
     
  12. Aug 28, 2011 at 11:37 PM
    #12
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    Shows how long its been since I've been in the scene. Their amps used to be to die for.
     
  13. Aug 28, 2011 at 11:55 PM
    #13
    84Hilux

    84Hilux Well-Known Member

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    Stock Fog Lights, Camera Mirror, Arrow Canopy, Lighted 4x4switch, Weathertech Mats (Black), Wet Okoles- Black/Charcoal, Alpine CDA117 Headunit/ Alpine PDX4150 Amp/Alpine PDX M6 Amp/ Hybrid Legatia SE Components/ JL 10W6V2 Subwoofer/ Prototype MR Marv Sub Enclosure
  14. Aug 29, 2011 at 7:44 AM
    #14
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    :( I would have bought em off ya if I didn't already have the TR coaxials. I'm really curious how those guys sound.
     
  15. Aug 29, 2011 at 9:41 AM
    #15
    willimatic

    willimatic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Brian, I know. I need to get around and check your system out, plus a few other items we've discussed.

    Do any of you run a bigger battery when running multiple amps?
     
  16. Aug 29, 2011 at 10:04 AM
    #16
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    The taco battery is about as big as it gets without getting into RV batteries. I looked around for awhile...because I thought my battery was done when it fact it was just fine. (I had a bad ground) I'm done with the whole Optima scene. They work good in Hondas if you run a JL system because they keep a good reserve capacity at low voltage. The JL amplifiers shut down around 11 volts I think it was. If you drained your battery in a JL system, you could still start a 4 cylinder engine with whats left over. There was never enough to start my V6's though. If you look at the stats for an Optima compared to an SLA, Optimas have less reserve time than our stock batteries even. Pretty much the only thing you get with an Optima is the gel-cell, non spillable battery so you could theoreitcally mount it anywhere.

    I think what I might end up doing is installing a second battery, possibly RV, and runnin an isolator to it so that as long as the car is not running, I will not draw off the main starting battery. Its not a major necessity ATM though, seeing as I'm not running a huge system right now.

    You busy this afternoon? I have nothing going and lookin for something to do.
     
  17. Aug 29, 2011 at 12:26 PM
    #17
    Tacomanator

    Tacomanator Well-Known Member

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    I've had my Optima red for 3 years now and it has yet to fail me. I only have one amp and I also did the "Big 3" upgrade, though. I live next to a drive-in theater and I can sit through a whole movie and start my truck just fine, couldnt do that with my stock battery.
     
  18. Aug 29, 2011 at 2:29 PM
    #18
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    Never really had one fail me, so to speak. I've drained them beyond starting ability, but that was when I had over 2000 watts in my old stereo. The battery definitely held up to the abuse though. There is nothing wrong with Optimas, they are good batteries. However, for the price and specs I don't believe they are worth it. My stock battery has better specs than the yellow top recommended for the system, and costs less.
     
  19. Aug 29, 2011 at 2:48 PM
    #19
    Tacomanator

    Tacomanator Well-Known Member

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    King 2.5" extended travel coilovers with compression adjusters, Camburg UCA's, King 2.5" rear shocks, TRD 1st gen CAI.
    ^ Yeah, i'm only pulling 600 watts rms, so it works great for me.
     
  20. Aug 31, 2011 at 9:09 PM
    #20
    06SR5canada

    06SR5canada Well-Known Member

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    JL is nothing great, especially for what they charge, thats like buying a chev cobalt for $50,000 and thinking its the shit just cause you paid so much for it.
     

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