BAMF Rock sliders "most" Trucks

My order was packaged well, easy to assemble, and everything was included and they were just as ordered. I made a special order to have top plates attached and powder coated and have it stand at a 0 degree angle so the kiddos could use them as steps. I would highly recommend BAMF to anyone. Jerry was also very good to work with.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/325222-dont-kick-bucket.html

 

Any good tips on drilling through the frame?

 

Use good bits, lots of oil, low rpm. May want to start small and work your way up, not positive how much that will help though.

 

Eat your Wheaties and workout your shoulders/arms for a few weeks prior , its a pain in the A$$, even with good bits (I had Dewalt Cobalt) and oil. I used motor oil dispensed out of an oil can vs WD40, I find bits cut better plus helps contain the metal shavings. What helped me "some" was to jack the truck up on the side I was working on so I could get a bit more leverage. Have a nice cold 6-pack ready when done!

 

Id say get a step bit too because they are a little shorter than standard drill bits and fit in tighter spots plus they make it a lot easier to notch holes/make holes bigger.

Wear safety glasses!!! Getting metal in your eyes sucks balls.

I personally needed a special right angle drill (I only have one cause I used to be a plumber...) because some of the holes were in such tight spots. But mine is a 97 and the frame is a bit different so probably won't need a special drill.

 

I have heard of people putting a floor jack under their drill as well, just go slow or the bit will go kaboom!

 

Lots of oil and slow is the key I like to start with 3/16th or 1/4" and work my up to 1/2" that works the best.

 

Hammer drill and a few cobalt bits. I did bolt on sliders on my DCLB and had to drill quite a few. get one side on jackstands, get your shoulder under it and sweat alot.

 

What part of the hammer drill helped? The "hammer" part is for concrete.

 

Step bit and oil. Big slow drill with a cord. Better control, usually. That's going to provide the fastest cleanest hole.

 

I think Jerry has the most efficient plan from my experience. 1/16" bit moving up through the sizes with oil. Step bits are good for thinner stock but frame steel is a bit much.

 

Mag drill

 

Just got mine mounted. 1/8" bit for a guide hole than follow with a step bit. Maybe I just had good bits, it only took me @ 10 minutes per side.

 

Of course, cause everyone has a mag drill.

 

amateurs

 

Me too I had new bits and turned them slowly so they just cut the metal and didn't get too hot. No oil used either. I'm really happy with the quality of these sliders.

 

My step bit from HF goes through up to about 1/8" pretty easily. Haven't tried 3/16" yet.

 

Every time I am installing at set i wish I had a mag drill.

 

Getting a good step bit is the best way to go. I used an1/8" cobalt bit for a pilot hole, then followed with a cobalt step bit. The actual drilling was not bad. I spent probably more time mocking them up and making sure everything was right. I used the irwin cobalt step bit from Lowe's(~$48). The cheaper step bits are made for thin sheet metal. Get the good one, use a lot of oil and go slow and it's pretty easy.

 

You are all scaring me away from doing it myself. I dont think my 20v Dewalt cordless will cut it and proper bits are $50+.

What should I expect to pay a shop to drill the last 3 holes one each side? The sliders are already mounted on the truck.