Swaybar

There's not a lot of space there because of clearance for the tire at full lock. The swaybar is not a round tube where you want to cut it - rather it's flattened.

 

That's an FJ Cruiser bar made by a guy who no longer makes or sells them.

The entire "red" section is removed - you have to remove two nuts from the bar and the "pin" in the link end.

Try it out, man! I'll be a cheerleader for anyone who can make this work. As far as tire clearance goes - you can measure more easily than I can tell you. But basically with any mod you want to be aware of the need to preserve maximum tire clearance, because TW owners are *always* running oversize tires and *always* running rims with more-than-factory negative offset.

 

Oh god please!

 

Bummer. Idea is squashed.

 

Talk with FJ FunJunkie in the Blue Room - He had this on his FJ - more than likely it's off by now but you never know.

 

I think from a structure standpoint, this is a bad idea to have the bolts lined up vertically. The sway bar transfers force on the vertical axis. This would put all the stress on the two bolts and would provide a weak point in the design. In the original design the two sway bay pieces are channeled together to give the sway bar more points to spread the stress load with the primary function of the bolts to simply keep the two pieces together. So you cannot simply take the original design and rotate it 90 degrees and maintain better tire clearance.

It may be possible to maintain the linkage design but move the bolts to the vertical, however I fear that would rob the design of strength and it would give the appearance of a weakened part and therefore scare some folks off.

I would remain with the original design. Tires can be moved away from the sway bar using different back spacing wheel and/or wheel spacers/UCA etc.

 

So I've talked this over with my insurance agent and It's not going to happen guys the insurance alone will cost me over $7,000 to $10,000 a year this is considered a vehicle safety device. And with the liabilities involved with sway bars I will not build them without the coverage.

 

why not just leave the factory sway bar in place and make quick disconnects for the little bar that connects the sway bar to the spindle? Drill holes in the shaft of the ball joint. Put castle nuts on the end of the ball joints and use cotter pins to ensure that they stay on while daily driving. It would look just like your upper ball joint, except they don't have to be so tight. Then you could easily remove that little bar every time that you go wheeling. Removal and install could be done while you are airing up and down. The only problem is that you have to leave your cab, and reach around a muddy tire.....


Billy-Bob

 

The disconnected sway bar will hit the coilover and/or tie-rod.

 

^^^^ ah ha. I knew it was too easy.

 

OK - thanks for checking.

 

What about a piston like device?

 

The risk is the same as if you completely removed the end link:

The disconnected sway bar end is "out of sync" with the disconnected spindle and there's now the possibility the sway bar end can contact and tear the CV boot.

 

I think it would be more practical and cheaper to just develope an easier and quicker way to just remove the whole sway system for offroading and then reassemble before getting back on the road. I guess it's relatively simple already, but I want FASTER!!!

 

That's what they make friends with 4runners for!

 

Can't you just call it an "off road" only type device and "not for highway use"

 

Trying to build one:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...e-fabricates-2nd-gen-sway-bar-disconnect.html

 

Is there a reason you can't do something like this...

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspe...EROKEE+(ZJ)+LAREDO&Engine=4.0L+L6+242+CID+GAS




You could bolt the bottom of the link in place. Adjust the length and spin the top 90 degrees from the bottom position. Then use the pin connection point at the top as the disconnect point. Then you could just swing the top of the arm down when disconnected and use a velcro strap to hold it out of the way when you're wheeling.

 

I think if you disconnect both ends and attempt to swing them down, you'll strike the tie rod ends. But as I mentioned - try it out! An experiment is worth more than the opinion of some dude on the Internet.