Swaybar

I'll just leave this here. No reason.

 

No, I must know more!!!

 

Fascinating, moose. Utterly fascinating.

 

Wait... shouldn't this thread be "BJMoose builds a swaybar quick disconnect"

 

Picture was taken from this thread. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/48150-automatic-sway-bar-disconnects.html

I am interested.

 

I don't weld. But I'm a demon with copy/paste.

 

BJMoose Presses Ctrl+C & Ctrl+V

 

Inspired

 

Yes please.

 

No time for the R&D

 

i would be down for one depending on price. prob willing to pay in the 400 to maybe 500 dollar rang. if it’s less than that, thats even better.

 

What swaybar? on my DD and I do drive it like a race car. lol

 

Here's some info I posted in another thread on this topic.

 

I did a little more research today.

The "link end" is 5.5" center to center, and both ends are a 12mm bolt.

The link replacement clearly has two "rod ends" and I'm guessing these are M12x1.75 link ends available from McMaster Carr as part number 59935K85 for about 12 bucks apiece. Those have a range-of-motion of 27 degrees, while the factory link ends seem to have a range-of-motion of 35 degrees. I'm guessing that 27 proves to be sufficient. Those things have a capacity of 5800lbs static load - they're probably strong enough.

I'm not sure how the two disconnectable pieces that the rod ends thread into are fabbed up. Clearly they're drilled and tapped so that the rod end can thread into them. Then on one side there's an additional nut on the rod end so that it can be tightened after it's adjusted to exactly the correct length and angle orientation.

It's not possible to buy steel tubing in any "off the shelf" size where the inside diameter of one is a sufficiently close "interference fit" to the other to fab up that link end.

Finally, the two bolt disconnect bar end itself is interesting. The factory bar has a mild curve to it there. So building a disconnect fitting there has some art to it. Also, there's only an inch - perhaps a little less - from my 285/70R17 tires to the bar at that disconnect point when the wheel's turned to full lock. So unlike in this pic - I think the best attachment bolt option probably has the bolts vertical instead of horizontal and cutting into that limited tire space.

When I started looking at it - I though I'd be able to make some detailed drawings with measurements so that pieces could be cut and formed based on the measurements.

Now I think it's just going to be a matter of cut-bend-recut until a master piece is made right, and then use that to make a jig.

That's not a skill I posses.

Next time I'm up there, I'll give you the extra swaybar I got off of MJ - if you want it as a potential prototype part. But I conclude I don't really have the skillz to go any further with this.

 

And now you guys know as much as I do: