FS: Powertrax LockRight 1615 for Rear Diff

neslerrah · May 10, 2010

sold
---------------------------------------------------------------

I bought this back in January hoping to have it installed this summer. I decided to go with ARBs, so I have no use for these. I bought them new.

These will fit in a open diff, 30 spline, and 8" ring rear diff.
The instructions are included.

I am asking for $320 shipped (OBO)

amaes · May 10, 2010

Bump

jefferson · May 10, 2010

what is the benefit of this? I'm kinda researching them and it's intriguing..

neslerrah · May 11, 2010

jefferson said: ↑

what is the benefit of this? I'm kinda researching them and it's intriguing..
Click to expand...

This will act as a full time locker, it will engage when a tire spins, thus locking both wheels together.

More info from PowerTrax website from the website:

The POWERTRAX LOCK-RIGHT Locker is the original locking differential that could be easily installed in existing case assemblies without any special tools or setup equipment. It has been widely used in demanding off-road applications around the world requiring extreme traction output and high-strength.

Because the LOCK-RIGHT eliminates wheel spin-up and therefore its associated driveline trauma is negated, the strength and integrity of its surrounding original case and other driveline components are, in effect, substantially increased. Cases that occasionally fail with open or limited-slip/posi differentials become one of the strongest links in the drive train when equipped with the POWERTRAX LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER.

The LOCK-RIGHT has been used in the harshest conditions around the world by hard-core off-roaders, in towing applications, and even United Nation vehicles in rugged terrain. For traction output, strength and durability, the POWERTRAX LOCK-RIGHT Locker. rivals much more expensive competitive lockers sold only as complete case replacement assemblies. It is a leading product because the LOCK-RIGHT delivers as much traction output, its end assembly is exceptionally strong, is much less expensive, and does not require professional installation (because the complete case assembly does not have to be replaced and realigned with precision calibration equipment). An excellent choice for off-road vehicle applications, performance enthusiasts also began using the LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER to satisfy their extreme traction requirements for racing, hot-rods and muscle cars.

The LOCK-RIGHT's operation is fully automatic. Designed to send the engine power to the wheels with the most traction, the LOCK-RIGHT will help get you where you want to go. While traveling straight the LOCK-RIGHT will lock the axles together similar to a spool. However, when the wheels need to differentiate in a turn, the LOCK-RIGHT will allow the outside wheel to rotate faster to complete the turn. The internal gears on the LOCK-RIGHT will overrun each other to allow this differentiation.

When operating off-road, the LOCK-RIGHT will always send the engine power to the wheels that need it most. For example, if you are rock crawling and one wheel is in the air (complete loss of traction), the wheel on the ground will receive the engine power and keep you going. Whether it be snow, sand, mud, ice, etc... the LOCK-RIGHT will give you the traction you need.

Although smoother than other competitive locking differentials, the brute force characteristics of the POWERTRAX LOCK-RIGHT Locker limit general application in less tolerant and more mainstream applications. In some vehicles, you will hear a light clicking noise as the gears are overrunning themselves and allowing the wheels to differentiate in a turn. This is normal of most lockers on the market today. We recommend the LOCK-RIGHT for vehicles that are primarily driven in severe driving conditions or are used for recreational off-road. For vehicles that are driven daily or require more mainstream application, the POWERTRAX TRACTION SYSTEMS offer a quieter and smoother performance. Please see the POWERTRAX® TRACTION SYSTEMS page.
Click to expand...

Here are some videos of PowerTrax lockers being demonstrated.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XalMpCC3oO0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOq6lrwe0JU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAdjfBKy0FE

jefferson · May 11, 2010

Is there any downside to having the lockright installed? It seems like a no-brainer to have it so you don't have to push LOCK on the dash or deal with the air system that ARB has...

EDIT:

Does anyone know if it'd fit my truck? Prerunner 6 lug SR5 nonTRD?

amaes · May 11, 2010

If you live in snowy areas where they get snow packed roads they are hard to handle because if one tire slips and they lock your truck is most likely going to either spin around or the back will get loose. because they both will have equal power and the one tire that slip won't be able to just roll over the snow pack. Other then that they are good and simple.

neslerrah · May 11, 2010

jefferson said: ↑

Is there any downside to having the lockright installed? It seems like a no-brainer to have it so you don't have to push LOCK on the dash or deal with the air system that ARB has...
Click to expand...

As for installing it... seems straight forward. Here is a write-up for a rear Dana 35. But it similar to the installation manual I got.

Here is what you'll need for this little project:
· 1/4" combination wrench (12 point only)
· 13mm socket or wrench
· Small screwdriver or awl
· Oil pan to catch diff fluid
· Jack stands, jack, wheel lug wrench
· Gear lube (I used 75-90 weight)
· Putty knife or gasket scraper
· RTV (or buy a diff gasket if you'd like)
· Lok-Tight for the pinion shaft bolt
· Medium weight grease to hold things together
· Brake cleaner to clean any parts before install

First thing, put your vehicle on jack stands. I placed the jack stands on the frame to allow the axle to hang freely. Next take off the wheels and brake drums. Trust me on this I was hoping to skip this step, but your axles will not slide far enough inwards otherwise. Remove all but one cover bolts using your 13mm socket. Loosen the last bolt but leave in place to keep the oil from splashing out. Pry the cover loose. After most of the lube drains remove the last bolt and remove cover. I noticed some metal shavings at the bottom. I didn't figure it was too bad considering the high miles.

Remove the 1/4" pinion shaft bolt using your 12 point combination wrench. I turned my driveshaft with a big pipe wrench until I got the alignment you see here (put transmission in neutral). This allowed me to remove the pinion shaft bolt without disturbing the bearing cap. Rotate the driveshaft until the carrier opening starts to show. The pinion shaft should fall out, if not give it a push from the back with your finger. Remove this and put it aside.

Here the pinion shaft is removed. Notice the spider gears will come right out. Go ahead and remove these at this time. One came out the front of the carrier, the other came out the back. Also be sure to remove the spider gear washers, they will likely be stuck to the top and bottom of the carrier in the rounded concave indentions (they may be stuck to the spider gears).

With your wheels and brake drums removed push each axle inward. The C-Clips will fall out, remove them. Pull the axles back out a couple of inches on each side. The side gears can now be removed. The side gears may seem tight, just wriggle back and forth until the "suction" lets them go. Double check that the Thrust Washers are attached to the side gears. If they aren't, then remove them from the carrier. If you don't have Thrust Washers you'll need to buy some, these are important for your warranty. They'll be there unless someone intentionally left them out.

Prepare locker Side Gears with Washers and Thrust Washers. Put some grease on the flat side of Washer and "paste" it into the grove of the Side Gear. Take the Thrust Washer from the original side gear, grease it up, and put it on the back of the new locker Side Gear. Repeat for both Side Gears. Place one of the Side Gears into the left side of the carrier (side with ring gear) and push the axle shaft through it. You'll see the C-Clip groove. So far so good!

Now that the axle shaft is pushed through, put some grease on a C-Clip and stick it in the axle c-clip slot. Grab the left axle and pull it out (away from center). This pulls the C-Clip against the Side Gear assembly (Thrust Washer, Side Gear, Washer). Grease up the Spacer and place the open end over the C-Clip. It also fits over the Washer (remember we "glued" the flat side of the Washer to the Side Gear?). Make sure the Spacer overlaps the Washer correctly, they fit perfect together.

Here's a close up of a Stop Pin, Bias Spring (large), Bias Spring (small). Now is a good time to prepare the Drivers for install. Take a Stop Pin, grease it up, and slide it into the Driver window slot (seen as an oval shape from the side). Do this for all four Stop Pins, two in each Driver. Prepare the Bias Springs for assembly as well. Take a larger Bias Spring and slide a smaller Bias Spring into the center. Use grease to "glue" the two together. Set them aside for now.

Grease the teeth on a Driver assembly and slide it over the Spacer of the left Side Gear and rotate until the gears mesh together. Prepare the right Side Gear by "gluing" the old Thrust Washer onto back (you should have already done this). Don't worry about the Washer yet, leave it off for now (or take if off if you followed my early step). Put the right Side Gear assembly into right side of carrier. Push the right axle into right Side Gear until the axle end is flush with the gear side of Side Gear. You'll see an opening between the left Driver and right Side Gear. It's just wide enough for the remaining Driver assembly.

Prepare the remaining Driver for install. This one is set up a little different from the first side. The fit is tight. Grease up the remaining Spacer and Washer and insert into the Driver. The open end of Spacer should face the direction of the Driver teeth. Then "glue" the Washer against the open end of Spacer so flat side of Washer is flush with Driver teeth. Take this assembled Driver and slide it into the opening between existing Driver and right Side Gear. Orient it in such a way that the Driver teeth with mesh with the Side Gear teeth. Try to keep the "c-clip window" in the Driver facing towards you. This slot will be used to insert the remaining C-Clip (next step). You may have to roll the Driver back or forth to find the narrowest (flat spot) of Driver before it will slip in. Once it's in place, mesh the gear teeth of the right Driver with the teeth of the right Side Gear.

With the right Driver "c-clip window" facing towards you, push the right axle towards the center completely through left Side Gear and Spacer. Here is where it get's a little tight. I tried to take enough pictures here to show the different stages of getting that last C-Clip in place. In the first picture you'll see the "c-clip slot" and behind it will be the Spacer. Take your small screwdriver, or awl, or coat-hanger (if that's all you got), and gently start to pry the Spacer apart from the Washer (second photo). Eventually, you'll see the axle c-clip slot come into view (kinda hard to see in third photo). Don't worry if right Driver slips towards the left as you do this, it's okay. Grease up the last C-Clip and slide it through the Driver "c-clip window" and onto the axle c-clip slot (fourth photo). The last photo is there so you can kind of see what it looks like with the C-Clip installed correctly. In reality you should have the C-Clip opening rotated so it's pointing downward (to keep it from falling off).

Pull both axles outward so the C-Clips are up against the Side Gear assemblies. Rotate the locker until you see the pinion shaft opening. Push the spacers back towards each respective axle. This makes room for the pinion shaft.

We're almost done and it's time to install those Bias Springs. First, take your small screwdriver and push a Stop Pin from the Driver pin window into the opposite Driver. Second take a greased up pair of Bias Springs (smaller inside larger) and push it into the Driver pin window. Rotate the locker and repeat these steps for all four Stop Pins and Bias Spring sets.

The first photo here shows the old and new Pinion Shafts. The new one doesn't have the notched areas. Line up the new locker pinion shaft hole with the carrier pinion shaft hole. Grease the new Pinion Shaft and slide it up through the carrier and locker. It would be a good idea to put a little lok-tight on the threads of the pinion shaft retaining bolt. Using your 1/4" combination wrench tighten the bolt.

That's it, you're done with the installation. Not very hard was it? Clean up the rear diff and cover. Install a new gasket and/or put a bead of your favorite RTV. Tighten all the cover bolts using the 13mm socket. Take your time to cross back and forth while you tighten the cover bolts. You don't want a warped cover, after all you've been through.
I filled my diff with 75-90 weight gear lube, I think you can go up to 140 weight (I've never used it that thick). Put your brake drums and wheels on and tighten lug nuts.
The install instructions suggest rotating the wheels around and around while listening for the sound of locking and unlocking. I spun them a few times after I filled with lube oil and dropped it for a test ride.
Click to expand...

jefferson · May 11, 2010

that really isn't that hard. I'm very interested. if i didn't have to consult the pocket book, id tell you sold. I'll keep you posted

neslerrah · May 11, 2010

jefferson said: ↑

that really isn't that hard. I'm very interested. if i didn't have to consult the pocket book, id tell you sold. I'll keep you posted
Click to expand...

Sounds good.

neslerrah · May 11, 2010

ttt

neslerrah · May 11, 2010

bump

amaes · May 11, 2010

Bump

ColtsTRD · May 11, 2010

Bump for a good guy and an even better deal!

neslerrah · May 12, 2010

ttt

lepedog23 · May 12, 2010

this only works on 05-08 tacomas right. wont fit a 2010 2wd?

Boomtacoma01 · May 12, 2010

I assume you have a 2010 DC preunner NON TRD ^

You have an 8.4 rear and this locker WILL work for you.

Get it youll love it

amaes · May 12, 2010

Boomtacoma01 said: ↑

I assume you have a 2010 DC preunner NON TRD ^

You have an 8.4 rear and this locker WILL work for you.

Get it youll love it
Click to expand...

x2

07tacoark · May 12, 2010

if this is still available & no one has bought it by may 21st i'll more than likely buy it.

so bump

neslerrah · May 12, 2010

jefferson said: ↑

Is there any downside to having the lockright installed? It seems like a no-brainer to have it so you don't have to push LOCK on the dash or deal with the air system that ARB has...

EDIT:

Does anyone know if it'd fit my truck? Prerunner 6 lug SR5 nonTRD?
Click to expand...

Yes these will fit.

Boomtacoma01 said: ↑

I assume you have a 2010 DC preunner NON TRD ^

You have an 8.4 rear and this locker WILL work for you.

Get it youll love it
Click to expand...

x3.

07tacoark said: ↑

if this is still available & no one has bought it by may 21st i'll more than likely buy it.

so bump
Click to expand...

Still available and still taking offers.

Boomtacoma01 · May 12, 2010

This is a new never installed, locker correct?

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FS: Powertrax LockRight 1615 for Rear Diff

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FS: Powertrax LockRight 1615 for Rear Diff

#1 neslerrah [OP] Taco lovin'

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#3 jefferson needs to stop cruising Buy/Sell/Trade....

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#5 jefferson needs to stop cruising Buy/Sell/Trade....

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#1
neslerrah [OP] Taco lovin'

#2
amaes Cuz Stock Sucks

#3
jefferson needs to stop cruising Buy/Sell/Trade....

#4
neslerrah [OP] Taco lovin'

#5
jefferson needs to stop cruising Buy/Sell/Trade....

#6
amaes Cuz Stock Sucks

#7
neslerrah [OP] Taco lovin'

#8
jefferson needs to stop cruising Buy/Sell/Trade....

#9
neslerrah [OP] Taco lovin'

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neslerrah [OP] Taco lovin'

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neslerrah [OP] Taco lovin'

#12
amaes Cuz Stock Sucks

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neslerrah [OP] Taco lovin'

#15
lepedog23 Taco Rookie

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amaes Cuz Stock Sucks

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