Factory 55 ProLinks

Just getting a feeler out. Have a winch? Either synthetic or steel cable, these will work for up to 3/8ths line. Made to fit tight and use a 3/4 shackle instead of the slip hook that normally comes on winch line. The group buy would be for the "loaded" version, meaning coming with the titanium pin and the rubber baseplate cover. Will work with either roller or hawse fairleads.

Here are some pictures of the ProLink.



Here are the different colors you can get


There is also a grey one that is pictured here (just cause its the color I want)


The advantages of winching with a Prolink and a screw pin shackle over a conventional winch hook are many :

1. Screw pin shackles are up to 5X stronger than conventional winch hooks
2. Conventional hooks are too small to safely fit both ends of a recovery strap
3. Recover straps cannot slip out of a shackle like they can with hooks
4. Hook safety latches are not rated for loads and can tear recovery straps
5. Conventional hook surfaces add higher stresses to recovery strap fibers, resulting in decreased strap ratings
6. Shackles can be quickly removed and stowed away until needed for winching.
7. Hooks do not cinch neatly against fairleads and are prone to rattling and loosening
8. Conventional winch hooks are designed for chains – not commonly used recovery straps
9. Engineered, Tested, and Made in USA — Patent Pending
10. Stress analyzed using COSMOS FEA and destructively tested for confirmation
11. Billet construction — precision machined from 6061-T6 Kaiser Aluminum round bar
12. 16,000 pound max load rating
13. Fits all steel cables and synthetic ropes up to 3/8" in diameter
14. Fits eyes equipped with standard or tube thimbles to 3/8 inch diameters
15. 1.2 inch shackle tab thickness virtually eliminates "shackle rattle"
16. Optional Massive 5/8 inch diameter 6Al-4V Titanium double shear pin
17. Optional EPDM "Rubber Guard" protects alloy Hawse fairleads — rubber barb attachment
18. Can be installed and removed in minutes — simple snap ring removal
19. Cinches neatly against all types of fairleads — Hawse or Roller

I'm aiming for 135.00 shipped to anywhere CONUS

INTEREST?
I need 10 people for the group buy to get the price.

1. Slimwood Shady
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lol. good stuff. - i'll leave the pics here for you too for a size comparison. - also with the addition of the XXL, they will fit ANY width line...

 

Got to get my winch first but I'm so into this kind of stuff!

 

I am down, but depends on when the money is needed...if you need the money after the 15th, I am all in

 

Is this still happening?

 

Probably interested depending on price

 

135.00 shipped conus. Its still good till next Monday, that's when he's gonna come up with a coupon code for me to give y'all.. Pm me if interested, I'll get you a link and the coupon code.

I have one person interested out of the 10 we need.

 

Bump for an awesome product.

I've made a post about this group buy on my local forum too, need ten people total, hoping to get some bites there too.

 

this still going on?

 

Only problem I have with these is that you can only put pin of your bow shackle through. There is times when you need to put the bow through, and you can't. Makes for a sketchy recovery.

 

The bow should never go through the winch line.

 

Why is that?

 

The basic answer? if you have a single line (which your winch line side is always a single line) in the bow, it is possible for it to rotate and have a side pull on the shackle as rather than a strait pull. The bow side is made for the "multiline" side (whatever is attaching to your winchline), such as a tree strap, thick snatch strap, etc. Obviously it is not always a multiple line attachment, for example if adding an strait extension, however, in that case, it makes no real difference, so why would you mix it up?, just stick with the standard of pin to winch. (There is a LOT more to it than this, but this is the basic answer. I suggest taking some recovery classes if you are really serious about diving into it).

In addition, you should always have enough shackles that if you do have some random equipment that requires the pin on the other side (such as a pulpal), you should be able to put shackle to shackle, so you still maintain your pin to you winch line. I have never seen a circumstance where it is needed to reverse the shackle on your line, and I have had a lot of recovery exp.

Hope that makes sense?

Odds are you will never have a problem if you do it the other way, but there is a higher chance, and when doing a recovery, there is a LOT that can go wrong, so its best to minimize your as much risk as you can.

 

That's that I thought you may say. But this was the only option, the bow of the shackle wouldn't fit through the recovery point on this pathfinder, so I had to put the pin through their recovery point. If I was hooked up to a strap, absolutely would I have put the strap through the bow. I carry multiple shackles, and lots of other goodies. I've taken recovery safety courses and would never to anything unsafe out there. Preformed hundreds of safe recoveries as well. Not say I know it all of course, but I'm no rookie to this.

 

Yes that is one circumstance where I could see someone needing to do that, as most attachment points on vehicles are designed for the pin to go though. But typically, when doing a vehicle to vehicle recovery with winch, I will leave my shackle on my winch line as is, and run a second shacked to the other vehicle, so the load path is basically:

"winch line" -> "pin (Shackle 1)" -> "bow (Shackle 1)" -> "bow(shackle 2)" -> "pin (shackle 2)" -> "Vehicle Rec Point"


It's also the same if you are doing a double line pull on my own vehicle...I end up having to double the shackle on the anchor point as my anchor points on my bumpers only allow for pin clearance.

Anyway, I think we both have a good understanding of it all, lets not clutter this thread. Be safe out there and have fun!!