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Roof Rust/Paint Help

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by RockLobster1106, Jul 27, 2011.

  1. Jul 27, 2011 at 3:17 PM
    #1
    RockLobster1106

    RockLobster1106 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Dear fello Taco Fiends,
    I live on the coast and park my truck in a carport; as a result, I have pretty bad roof rust. The rust has not broken through the metal (no holes) but, there are quarter sized rust bubbles.

    Went to local body shop and they said the whole roof should be replaced and would cost a couple grand. I know this is the best way but, I do not have that kind of money.

    I had been thinking about doing the repair myself with a little help from duplicolor perfect match paint. From what I understand the process is fairly simple: grind away rust, rust inhibitor, body filler, glazing putty, primer, paint, gloss; however, not as easy as it sounds.

    A couple of problems I have encountered are: feathering the existing paint to get an even surface, preventing overspray by taping but when I remove tape the newly painted area is higher than original paint, and finally just making it look really nice. I am learning as I go and have tried the same area a couple of times and each time it comes out better. So, what are some tricks of the trade that you can recommend? Should I just save up and take it to the body shop? Thanks
     
  2. Jul 27, 2011 at 3:33 PM
    #2
    2girlsdad

    2girlsdad Active Member

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    First off, a couple grand is retarded. I'd charge about $800 MAX to paint it, if there's no sunroof, the rust isn't too bad, and if there wasn't anymore damage. Also, depends on if the windshield needs to come out. Again, 2 grand is retarded. As for how you do it, it depends on how much rust there is, how big of an area it is, and what color the truck is. Your idea is sound, you have the right plan, but I'd never blend on a big panel like a roof. I'd clear the whole thing, especially if you plan on keeping it for a while. If you were fixing it to sell it, I might blend to do it cheap and get rid of it.

    Sand down the area, use naval jelly or some other rust jelly, 2K prime (not aerosol), and block the area down. You can use a sealer if you wish, but not really necessary, spray your base coat, and then clear. I'll help anyway I can. I do it every day.
     
  3. Jul 27, 2011 at 3:35 PM
    #3
    2girlsdad

    2girlsdad Active Member

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    I just re-read your post, not initially realizing you said the rust was pretty bad. If the roof is covered all over with it, I might charge more, but even if I stripped it or sanded the whole thing bare and 2k'd the whole thing, I'd still not be more than a grand. 2 thousand, is too much.
     
  4. Jul 27, 2011 at 3:53 PM
    #4
    RockLobster1106

    RockLobster1106 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thanks for your help. I dont know if this was clear but the body shop wanted to replace the roof, saw it off.
     
  5. Jul 27, 2011 at 8:02 PM
    #5
    2girlsdad

    2girlsdad Active Member

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    I could only imagine that would be necessary if there was rollover damage or major impact damage. Or, possibly rust that was 20 years old that went all the way through. If you can take some pictures of it, PM me and I'll give you my email address. Maybe I can help a little more if I can see it.
     
  6. Jul 27, 2011 at 8:28 PM
    #6
    geoff06

    geoff06 261k and counting

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    3" lift, Bilstein 5100/OME coilovers, rear AAL, Swiss camper shell, Rough Country 9000 rear shocks, 265/75/16 AT's on stock steel rims painted black, All-Pro 1.5"F/1.25"R wheel spacers, airbox elbow mod, Flowmaster Super 44, Davico post-cat, I took off my DIY angle iron bed/light bar!, bed wheel well shovel-mount, blacked out grill emblem, Poineer DEH-P3900 head unit, Alpine Type R front component speakers, Pioneer Coaxial rears, Dynamat in door panels, scratchbuilt aluminum holders for my ipod nano and phone, and for some reason, I painted the headlight fillers black...
    $2000 is a LOT of money. Sounds like your original idea of strip, reformer, bondo, refinish, etc. might be your best bet. Shoot, if I still lived in El Granada I would help you out. What color is your truck? cuz, as was already stated, the color can make a big difference in what kinda approach/outcome you will have

    PS: after you do get this roof issue taken care of, I would definitely recommend claybarring the body and applying multiple coats of wax a few times a year. That process potentially saved the body of my truck, which was exposed to the seaside environment and all kinds of tree gunk in Linda Mar from delivery in Oct. 2000 to early 2009 when I bought it.
     
  7. Jul 28, 2011 at 9:43 PM
    #7
    RockLobster1106

    RockLobster1106 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your help guys. Ill take some pictures and send em to ya. The truck was my brothers and before it was mine, it sat out a long time without a wax. I have clay barred it this year and waxed multiple times. Thanks again
     
  8. Jul 28, 2011 at 9:47 PM
    #8
    pudge151

    pudge151 Well-Known Member

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    sand, naval jelly, bondo/filler, prime, prime, line-s or rhinoline
     
  9. Jul 28, 2011 at 9:53 PM
    #9
    geoff06

    geoff06 261k and counting

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    3" lift, Bilstein 5100/OME coilovers, rear AAL, Swiss camper shell, Rough Country 9000 rear shocks, 265/75/16 AT's on stock steel rims painted black, All-Pro 1.5"F/1.25"R wheel spacers, airbox elbow mod, Flowmaster Super 44, Davico post-cat, I took off my DIY angle iron bed/light bar!, bed wheel well shovel-mount, blacked out grill emblem, Poineer DEH-P3900 head unit, Alpine Type R front component speakers, Pioneer Coaxial rears, Dynamat in door panels, scratchbuilt aluminum holders for my ipod nano and phone, and for some reason, I painted the headlight fillers black...
    Good luck with everything! Keep us posted
     

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