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Wax brand new truck?

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Old 12-28-2011, 03:14 PM   #21
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I'd suggest running a clay bar over the truck before waxing. Mine had rail dust and pollutants etched right into the paint when I bought it new a few years back. With I had known about the clay back then...I waxed it and pretty much sealed that shit in.
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:19 PM   #22
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is the clay bar a 1 time use thing? or could I clay 2 vehicles with same clay?
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:28 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunercrab View Post
^ thats my old 2010 baby I didn't take many pics of my new one except this quick one at the dealership of my 2012 (really miss my 2010 tho)
^^ That's Nice!! Did the dealership offer it with the FJ wheels?
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Old 12-28-2011, 04:23 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stmpjmpr View Post
is the clay bar a 1 time use thing? or could I clay 2 vehicles with same clay?
The Mothers clay bar kit will do a couple cars easy. It comes with a spray bottle of detailer and it's not a bad idea to buy a spare bottle...best to use plenty of spray/lubricant. Wash and dry before claying to keep the clay as clean as possible, and if you drop it on the ground throw it away and use new clay. To see if your truck needs claying put your hand in a plastic sandwhich bag and run it across the paint. You'll more than likely feel alot of contaminates...all of that will be removed with clay.
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Old 12-28-2011, 04:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moondeath View Post
^^ That's Nice!! Did the dealership offer it with the FJ wheels?
Nope. Those came off my 2010. The dealer wasn't too happy bout that one. I made them switch around the tires and rims with the new truck before I'd sign anything
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:28 AM   #26
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I wash and wax my truck and car outside in the 40s all the time. In fact I have been doing so for over 49 years with no problem. Use a good carnuba liked DP Max from Auto geek.net. It costa a bit more but goes a long way, It is very easy to use. Keep it protected with a good coat every month. don't use any soap when you wash it, except on the wheels, and try too avoid mechanical car washes. Wax the wheels too with a less expensive wax or Autogeek.net sells a great wheel wax. Always use a separate sponge and towel on y our wheels to avoid scratching the finish with grit. Silvert
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:49 AM   #27
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Temperatures need to be in at least the 50s in order for a polymer base wax (which I use as a base layer) to properly adhere and flow/bond together on the paint. Its usually best for the wax to bake in the sun as well once its all buffed. Ideally, you would put a nice carnuba layer on top of that and to achieve the mirror like shine.

All I've been doing lately is using a heavy dose of spray wax (mine is silver, so I get 0 streaks) after these once a month washings for this time of the year. And I have never hand washed a car/truck in late December, early January!
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:07 AM   #28
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Zymol Products are expensive but do a fantastic job. Only problem is I don't have a local dealer and I have to order it on line.

www.zymol.com
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:01 PM   #29
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I had the same question about my new truck. Here's what I found out.

1. Clay bar it. Yes its new but you'd be surprised how much crap is already stuck to the paint. Made a huge difference.

2. Whatever product you use (zaino FTW) spend the time to get 2+ layers on the paint. Lots of protection

I did this and it give me peace of mind that under my polish is absolutely CLEAN paint. I know I didn't trap in any crap or impurities.
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Old 01-11-2012, 04:19 AM   #30
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I never have used a clay bar. I use plain water(no soap of any kind) to wash the finish. A small amount of wheel cleaner for tires and wheels. Dry with old bath towels and wax it once a month with Auto Geeks DP Max carnuba.
That works well for me. Silvert
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:18 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OffroadToy View Post
I'd suggest running a clay bar over the truck before waxing. Mine had rail dust and pollutants etched right into the paint when I bought it new a few years back. With I had known about the clay back then...I waxed it and pretty much sealed that shit in.
Big fan of mequir's. If its not mequir's I don't use it. Have you tried the 3 step waxing process? The first step is a paint cleaner that pretty much cleans through the clear coat and kind of strips the wax to remove containments
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