1C - You got any references proving it's "complete shite"? I referenced a site for you with lots of industry professionals buzzing about this product. They have used just about everything worth trying and are very excited about OC2. Removal has to be mechanical (buffed) off, but using 600 grit on any finished surface is ridiculous. You would need to use a good compound and foam pad to remove it. Perhaps a little more research would go a long way.
Yeah my reference is my ASE master certification in collision repair and finish, good enough? Let me expand, that little tube is more than enough for a whole car right?? And it is supposedly 2 microns thick right?? Well to compare, an average factory clear is about 2.5 mils thick or about 63 microns, repeat 63 microns and your expert info you referenced says that "Opti-Coat 2.0" is more scratch resistant than a polyurethane clear coat?? Come on dude, think about it. It's common sense. And if it was some super duper new fandangled chemical concoction better than your modern clear coat, wouldn't manufacturers be coating every new car with this instead of polyurethane?? Wheels starting to turn for anybody????
Not trying to bash here, just trying to educate so people don't waste their money. As for having to be removed with compound, more like a couple car washes. It's a glorified concentrated wax, nothing more. Sorry to burst anyone's bubble but I'm sure everyone has heard "If it's too good to be true...........probably isn't"
And no, sanding with 600 or 400 in preparation to apply additional coats of clear is actually pretty standard procedure, you might not of understood what I was saying but anyway.
Opti-Coat = Snake Oil