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Opti-Coat 2.0 - Never wax your truck again

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Old 04-21-2012, 06:17 PM   #1
S7ICKlVlAN [OP] S7ICKlVlAN is offline
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Opti-Coat 2.0 - Never wax your truck again

Just got done applying OC 2.0. OC is a nano tech sealant that permanently adheres to the paint of your vehicle and provides a hydrophobic, hard seal. It works on wheels, exterior plastics, and headlights (avoid hazing). I started off with a wash/dry using Optimum No Rinse car wash/lubricant. LINK







Once the wash/dry was done, I busted out my Makita 9227 with a 6" blue foam pad to apply G Techniq's P1 polish. LINK. P1 is a nano compound that does not break down like organic compounds. It will retain it's abrasive properties even after it dries up. You just give the designated area a light spray of straight water. Before applying a permanent coat like OC 2.0, you want to make sure all previous wax/oils have been removed from the paint to guarantee the best possible bond. I previously used Collinite 845 which is a very hard core sealant that can last upwards of 3-4 months. Typically, you can remove old wax using a 50/50 blend of alc/water or a product like Car Pro Eraser. It's not that easy with Collinite. I buffed the entire car with the P1 polish till all panels were squeaky clean and wax free.



Following the P1, I wiped the entire truck down with Car Pro Eraser. LINK. CPE is a water based cleaner that removes old wax residue, oils, etc from the paint and gives you a surface that is thoroughly prepped and ready for coating. I sprayed it on generously and wiped the entire truck clean with a PakShak microfiber towel, making sure there were no flash streaks anywhere on the painted surfaces. I should note, P1 is water soluble and Eraser easily removes any remant P1 from exterior trim/plastics with relative ease. Don't worry about perma-white marks on your black plastics with this stuff.

With everything cleaned and prepped, I got out my Opti-Coat 2.0 and read through the brief instructions to apply. It comes with an applicator. LINK. In order to maximize the OC 2.0, I placed the sponge applicator in a nitrile glove and wrapped that with a plain blue shop towel. Doing this allows you to apply with the soft sponge, but blocks the applicator from soaking up all your OC 2.0. I'd recommend it.



OC 2.0 goes on very light and just a little applied to the wrapped applicator goes a long way. It will go on hazy with a slightly oily appearance and should (almost immediately) flash to clear. If it does not flash, buff it a little with the wrapped applicator and it should do the trick. OC 2.0 is self leveling, but applying it too heavy can leave "swirl marks" on the finish and as scary as that may sound, it's very easy to avoid. I did one panel at a time with a 5-7 min break in between to confirm everything went on well and flashed clear. Apply the OC 2.0 in a single direction with the first coat and then immediately wipe across the grain of the first coat immediately after initial application to ensure a nice level coat. It should spread well.

Again, this (OC 2.0) can be applied to all exterior plastics. I did all the light housings, door jambs, mirrors, back windows, front valence, grille, fog lights, fender flare gaskets, window frame rubber with it and still had over 1/2 the syringe of OC 2.0 left. I will do my wheels in a few months when the Collinite wears off of them.

All the work to apply the OC 2.0 should yield me a well protected, hydrophobic finish that I'll never have to wax again. Just gloss/detail spray and regular washes. Hope this info helps some of you free up more weekend time. Check out Autogeek.net for even more info on this stuff. I'm a noob compared to some of the guys on that site.
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:05 PM   #3
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Holy crap.

wtf?
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:16 PM   #4
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Nice now you no need wax every few months
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:29 PM   #5
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Looks like a glowing endorsement to me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by S7ICKlVlAN View Post
Just got done applying OC 2.0. OC is a nano tech sealant that permanently adheres to the paint of your vehicle and provides a hydrophobic, hard seal. It works on wheels, exterior plastics, and headlights (avoid hazing). I started off with a wash/dry using Optimum No Rinse car wash/lubricant. LINK







Once the wash/dry was done, I busted out my Makita 9227 with a 6" blue foam pad to apply G Techniq's P1 polish. LINK. P1 is a nano compound that does not break down like organic compounds. It will retain it's abrasive properties even after it dries up. You just give the designated area a light spray of straight water. Before applying a permanent coat like OC 2.0, you want to make sure all previous wax/oils have been removed from the paint to guarantee the best possible bond. I previously used Collinite 845 which is a very hard core sealant that can last upwards of 3-4 months. Typically, you can remove old wax using a 50/50 blend of alc/water or a product like Car Pro Eraser. It's not that easy with Collinite. I buffed the entire car with the P1 polish till all panels were squeaky clean and wax free.



Following the P1, I wiped the entire truck down with Car Pro Eraser. LINK. CPE is a water based cleaner that removes old wax residue, oils, etc from the paint and gives you a surface that is thoroughly prepped and ready for coating. I sprayed it on generously and wiped the entire truck clean with a PakShak microfiber towel, making sure there were no flash streaks anywhere on the painted surfaces. I should note, P1 is water soluble and Eraser easily removes any remant P1 from exterior trim/plastics with relative ease. Don't worry about perma-white marks on your black plastics with this stuff.

With everything cleaned and prepped, I got out my Opti-Coat 2.0 and read through the brief instructions to apply. It comes with an applicator. LINK. In order to maximize the OC 2.0, I placed the sponge applicator in a nitrile glove and wrapped that with a plain blue shop towel. Doing this allows you to apply with the soft sponge, but blocks the applicator from soaking up all your OC 2.0. I'd recommend it.



OC 2.0 goes on very light and just a little applied to the wrapped applicator goes a long way. It will go on hazy with a slightly oily appearance and should (almost immediately) flash to clear. If it does not flash, buff it a little with the wrapped applicator and it should do the trick. OC 2.0 is self leveling, but applying it too heavy can leave "swirl marks" on the finish and as scary as that may sound, it's very easy to avoid. I did one panel at a time with a 5-7 min break in between to confirm everything went on well and flashed clear. Apply the OC 2.0 in a single direction with the first coat and then immediately wipe across the grain of the first coat immediately after initial application to ensure a nice level coat. It should spread well.

Again, this (OC 2.0) can be applied to all exterior plastics. I did all the light housings, door jambs, mirrors, back windows, front valence, grille, fog lights, fender flare gaskets, window frame rubber with it and still had over 1/2 the syringe of OC 2.0 left. I will do my wheels in a few months when the Collinite wears off of them.

All the work to apply the OC 2.0 should yield me a well protected, hydrophobic finish that I'll never have to wax again. Just gloss/detail spray and regular washes. Hope this info helps some of you free up more weekend time. Check out Autogeek.net for even more info on this stuff. I'm a noob compared to some of the guys on that site.
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:35 PM   #6
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I love it on my truck. Weekly washes and detail spray and it looks good. The only downfall is lack of depth compared to a sealant or carnauba. It has a very glass like finish. Also,it makes the soft Toyota clear coat much less prone to scratching.
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:37 PM   #7
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I would be too scared to try this on my truck. It sounds too permanent - if I screw up applying it or for some reason it starts to flake off in a year or so, it might be diffiult to correct.
Is there any long term proof on how it holds up?

I don't want to sound negative, OP, it appears that you did a great job with prep and application, it is just me...
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:48 PM   #8
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+1

I used a similar Blue Coral product on my '91 Escort and it looked like shit.
The stuff was basically Mop N Glo... just an acrylic coating.

I tried to remove it and it wasn't happening.
After someone backed into me in a parking lot, I asked the body shop guy about it and he said that he could practically put his kid through college fixing the results of Blue Coral and similar products.
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S7ICKlVlAN View Post
I started off with a wash/dry using Optimum No Rinse car wash/lubricant. LINK

LINK. P1 is a nano compound that does not break down like organic compounds.

Following the P1, I wiped the entire truck down with Car Pro Eraser. LINK. CPE is a water based cleaner that removes old wax residue, oils, etc from

With everything cleaned and prepped, I got out my Opti-Coat 2.0 and read through the brief instructions to apply. It comes with an applicator. LINK. In order to maximize the OC 2.0, I placed the sponge applicator in a nitrile
Hmm...

$16 for the no-rinse wash.
$12 plus shipping from Europe for the P1
$15 for the CPE

And finally...




$103 plus shipping?
Only references from Autogeeks?
I'd trust the Autopia/CMA references more... been around much longer than AG.
Would be interesting to see what the Autopia crowd thinks of this, but I have a feeling it's going to be
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:07 PM   #10
S7ICKlVlAN [OP] S7ICKlVlAN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post
+1

I used a similar Blue Coral product on my '91 Escort and it looked like shit.
The stuff was basically Mop N Glo... just an acrylic coating.

I tried to remove it and it wasn't happening.
After someone backed into me in a parking lot, I asked the body shop guy about it and he said that he could practically put his kid through college fixing the results of Blue Coral and similar products.
LOL this is nothing like BC stuff. I don't think you're the target consumer for this product, so I'm sure the $103 it takes to get started is way over your detailing budget. Stick to Turtle Wax.

Search Autopia, you'll find that the same guys frequent both sites.
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:09 PM   #11
S7ICKlVlAN [OP] S7ICKlVlAN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishntaco View Post
I love it on my truck. Weekly washes and detail spray and it looks good. The only downfall is lack of depth compared to a sealant or carnauba. It has a very glass like finish. Also,it makes the soft Toyota clear coat much less prone to scratching.
Agreed. On a dark color this might not give the "pop" that some other waxes/carnauba's do, but on white it's pretty solid. It's got that candy shell appearance. White (and possibly red) is single stage, so the OC 2.0 is a welcome addition for protection.
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:19 PM   #13
S7ICKlVlAN [OP] S7ICKlVlAN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kapahi121 View Post
Nice now you no need wax every few months
Haha wassup kapahi! Yeah I'm straight chillin with build projects on the weekends instead of putting wax on my Taco. Auuuriiite!
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post
Hmm...

$16 for the no-rinse wash.
$12 plus shipping from Europe for the P1
$15 for the CPE

And finally...




$103 plus shipping?
Only references from Autogeeks?
I'd trust the Autopia/CMA references more... been around much longer than AG.
Would be interesting to see what the Autopia crowd thinks of this, but I have a feeling it's going to be
$103 is not really expensive considering you wont ever have to wax your truck again. Also you'll notice that many of the guys on autopia are also the same guys on auto geeks, and if $103 is too expensive for you, you can always use the car wash that you've always been using and instead of carpro eraser you can finish off with an IPA wipedown.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeebee808 View Post
$103 is not really expensive considering you wont ever have to wax your truck again. Also you'll notice that many of the guys on autopia are also the same guys on auto geeks, and if $103 is too expensive for you, you can always use the car wash that you've always been using and instead of carpro eraser you can finish off with an IPA wipedown.
Or I can just do what I've done since I gave up on high-maintenance finishes and just hit it with NXT or other quality liquid wax every 3 months.
$103 will buy about 10 years worth of supplies if I don't leave a cap open and I don't mind spending an afternoon taking care of my truck.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:21 PM   #17
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i'm kind of anal when it comes to detailing...i would hit it with the opti-coat and then use NXT after to follow up!!! LOL would that work?
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:26 PM   #18
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Good luck with that . I never have any problems with today's quality products .
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:32 PM   #19
S7ICKlVlAN [OP] S7ICKlVlAN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post
Or I can just do what I've done since I gave up on high-maintenance finishes and just hit it with NXT or other quality liquid wax every 3 months.
$103 will buy about 10 years worth of supplies if I don't leave a cap open and I don't mind spending an afternoon taking care of my truck.
$103 for 10 years worth of supplies. LOL ohhhkaaaayyy. Just so yo understand, I'm not trying to "convince" you to use it. I posted this for people who may find it useful, if you don't, cool. Still LOL @ your comparison to Blue Coral. Do some research instead of just knocking anything that ain't some $5 wax.

Shaun - Nah bro, nothing will be able to bond to the OC bro. Detail/Gloss spray on it and you'll be good.

Jeebs - You on point bro.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:23 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S7ICKlVlAN View Post
$103 for 10 years worth of supplies. LOL ohhhkaaaayyy. Just so yo understand, I'm not trying to "convince" you to use it. I posted this for people who may find it useful, if you don't, cool. Still LOL @ your comparison to Blue Coral. Do some research instead of just knocking anything that ain't some $5 wax.
I'm not talking about the $5 BC wax. The shit that I used was closer to $30.
Same promises of never having to wax again.
The stuff was not much different from Mop & Glo floor wax repackaged for use on cars.

As far as laughing at $100 being enough for 10 years... Ya... Reference another thread I posted in, I went through about 4 years of the whole "every 6 months" of stripping, claybar, Klasse AIO, 3 layers of Klasse SG, followed by a Carnuba topper... so I know what a quality product costs and how to apply it.

But for a daily driver, it's not worth the effort when it only has that "show" look for a week.
So ya... A $20 bottle of wax will last me a couple of years and the results are just fine for a daily driver.

For a show car, referring to fishntaco's comment, it lacks the depth of traditional products.

FWIW... My '03 Tundra after one of it's treatments...



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