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DIY: Topper Camper Cap color match

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Old 07-25-2012, 12:57 PM   #1
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DIY: Topper Camper Cap color match

This is my attempt to colort match my camper shell over the next week.

I wanted to pick up a shell while down in Florida so I could bring some boxes and furniture back to Las Vegas with out getting wet and for security reasons while staying at hotels. The only white top I could find at the time was a tricked out LEER for $2200. That was way more than I was willing to pay. So I found this silver bad boy on craigslist w/ keys and in excellent condition. Only downfall was it didn't match my truck.

Seems like the going rate for a professional paint job is $300-$350. I figure I can beat that price and just do it myself. Also, while the windows are out I'm gonna tint them to match the truck and keep prying eyes out.

Went to Harbor Freight to pick up some supplies. After coupons total came to $40 and some change.

Removed all windows and rear door which was easier than expected.


Now for prep work. There a few minor scratches and scuffs but nothing to crazy. I used 500 grit wet/dry to smooth things out.


To be continued.......

If anyone has tips for this please feel free to chime in. I am my no means an autobody paint guy.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:57 PM   #2
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Painting

Finally got the shell smooth. Sprayed down with water the night before. Let it dry overnight. Used a tac rag to pick up whatever left over dust was around then lightly spray an adhesion promoter. Got everything setup and went in for the kill. Did about 3 good solid coats of white. Then hit it with 3 coats of clear. Gonna let it dry overnight then hit the flaws with some 2k sandpaper.


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Old 07-25-2012, 12:57 PM   #3
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Polished up using 3m two-stage buff and polish. Then threw windows in. Damn, that front window is a pain in the ass.

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Old 07-25-2012, 02:06 PM   #4
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Were you able to get the same white as your truck? I have found that paint matching can be hard, so a complimentary but different color might be the way to go. Like maybe a gloss black with ur white truck??

I am not a auto body guy but have successfully painted cars with a foam roller. Sounds nuts but I was able to get a smoother and more consistent coat with the roller than with spray cans

Hopefully some of the guys who are good at auto body will chime in
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:29 PM   #5
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If you're using automotive paint, you'll want to use a higher grit than 500. Automotive paint doesn't hide scratches like regular spray paint.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:14 PM   #6
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I've been in auto body for many years, and I can just say you get what you pay for. I would honestly recommend dishing out the cash for a cheapo Maaco paint job if nothing else... But, if you want to do it yourself with rattle-cans, I'd recommend finishing in 600 - 800 grit paper, as 400 - 500 is pretty harsh, and will likely show sand-scratches. Rattle-can paint doesn't fill scratches very well...

Then you've got to worry about clear. Unfortunately, rattle-can clear ALWAYS has a yellow tint to it. It's the nature of the beast. So your topper is going to end up looking a little yellow v.s. the rest of the truck.

IMO, I would never recommend somebody paint such a large panel with rattle cans. But, if you're looking to save a few bucks, and you're not too picky, then I'll help ya out wherever I can...
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:26 PM   #7
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:50 PM   #8
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Added paint pics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdcmn7 View Post
Were you able to get the same white as your truck? I have found that paint matching can be hard, so a complimentary but different color might be the way to go. Like maybe a gloss black with ur white truck??

I am not a auto body guy but have successfully painted cars with a foam roller. Sounds nuts but I was able to get a smoother and more consistent coat with the roller than with spray cans

Hopefully some of the guys who are good at auto body will chime in
Well, I found the color code to be 040 and went to carquest and them mix up the color. We'll see how well it matches the truck once installed. Also, I'm interested to see how fast it will "yellow" compare to the factory paint.

I've seen roller paint jobs on youtube that looks pretty damn good. Just haven't seen any in person.


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If you're using automotive paint, you'll want to use a higher grit than 500. Automotive paint doesn't hide scratches like regular spray paint.
The 500 wet seemed to work fine.

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Originally Posted by Dadic 78 View Post
I've been in auto body for many years, and I can just say you get what you pay for. I would honestly recommend dishing out the cash for a cheapo Maaco paint job if nothing else... But, if you want to do it yourself with rattle-cans, I'd recommend finishing in 600 - 800 grit paper, as 400 - 500 is pretty harsh, and will likely show sand-scratches. Rattle-can paint doesn't fill scratches very well...

Then you've got to worry about clear. Unfortunately, rattle-can clear ALWAYS has a yellow tint to it. It's the nature of the beast. So your topper is going to end up looking a little yellow v.s. the rest of the truck.

IMO, I would never recommend somebody paint such a large panel with rattle cans. But, if you're looking to save a few bucks, and you're not too picky, then I'll help ya out wherever I can...
Thanks for the info. Maaco's price was around $300 over the phone. And that was using a single stage. I ended up doing a base then clear with actual automotive paint. After this is said and done I'll let you know if it was worth it.

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Enjoy.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:58 PM   #9
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Can't wait to see it on the truck!
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:26 PM   #10
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:58 PM   #11
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Will post a better pic once truck is washed up.


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Old 08-05-2012, 07:04 AM   #13
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that looks awesome, great job
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:09 AM   #14
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Did you give the paint a good polish?

Overall it came out great! Not a bad way to save a decent amount of $$
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:08 AM   #15
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Did you give the paint a good polish?

Overall it came out great! Not a bad way to save a decent amount of $$
Yep, used a two stage 3m polish.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:34 PM   #16
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Finished Product

Here we go. I'm very happy with it.







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Old 08-05-2012, 01:44 PM   #17
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In the new pictures, it looks like it matches perfectly! The old ones looked like the clear was a little hazy but it must have been because of the shadows in your garage. In the sun, you'd never know it was a DIY paint job. Nice work man
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:47 PM   #18
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Quote:
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In the new pictures, it looks like it matches perfectly! The old ones looked like the clear was a little hazy but it must have been because of the shadows in your garage. In the sun, you'd never know it was a DIY paint job. Nice work man
Thanks. When I wet sanded the clear coat I focused on the sides and upper corners. That's probably why the top looks hazy.
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:02 PM   #19
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Looks pretty decent in the pics, in terms of colour match. How did the clear go on? Nice and smooth, or is it hazy at all? I'm sure the polish helped quite a bit... Any yellowing?
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:38 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Looks pretty decent in the pics, in terms of colour match. How did the clear go on? Nice and smooth, or is it hazy at all? I'm sure the polish helped quite a bit... Any yellowing?
The clear went on nice and smooth but was drying to fast. I used the hottest clear hardener they had, but at 95F I think was a little to hot in my garage. No yellowing as of yet. We'll see what the Vegas sun does to it.
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