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I borked my badges.

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Old 11-01-2013, 08:01 AM   #1
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Angry I borked my badges.

Long story short, I ended up with a "ripple/wrinkle/crackle" finish on my clear coat and I'm not sure why. Here's the long story.

I de-badged and painted my emblems. Waited two days, and did the clear coat. Everything looked pretty good except for a gnat that got painted in and some small grass/dust that also blew onto it. I put on the 3M double-sided automotive tape and then proceeded to trim it away from the holes. I nicked up the paint doing this in a few areas. A couple of places, I scratched with the blade, and a couple with the handle. I figured, that was pretty easy the first time and now I've got the tape trimmed... what the hell, lets just redo the paint. I got some fine grain sandpaper, 320 I think, and scuffed up the surface good. I wasn't trying to take everything off, just the clear-coat and make sure the surface was rough to take the next coat of paint.

Washed/dried to get all the sanding dust off. Repaint, and it looks great. Even better than the first time. At this point I'm very excited. I wait 4 days before I can clear coat due to being busy and not getting home before dark all week. I do one coat (even spray, across and back, just like before) and I notice an immediate wrinkling/crackling effect on the clear coat. WTF?!?!? I was sad.

The only two difference I know were that I had to wait longer for the clear coat than I did the first time, and it was a somewhat humid day the second time. It was going to rain and I had about 30 mins of sunlight so I wanted to get it sprayed and back inside to cure up. I suspect the humidity, but really, it wasn't THAT humid.

Any ideas or thoughts? At this point I'm just taking the tape off the truck and going with no badges for a while. I was going for red badges on the black truck. Looks good with the red springs.
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:18 PM   #2
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Any thoughts? Do I need to sand all the way down to the chrome? I'm thinking I'll give it another go, but maybe I just need to wait until later when its not as humid.
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Old 11-02-2013, 11:29 PM   #4
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I've had that happen with a number of rattle can products.
Clear has always been a big problem... if I don't recoat within an hour or two, any future coat will crackle.
I've had the same thing happen to color coats after sanding.
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Old 11-03-2013, 10:50 AM   #5
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Sorry, I've been following the instructions over on the De-Badge thread.

I'm using Rust-Oleum specialty plastic paint (red) and crystal clear coat enamel for the top coat. The paint looked really great, I did about 3 coats. It wasn't until the clear coat that it wrinkled up on me. I have no idea what the humidity was that day, but it was getting ready to rain.

Should I sand down and try again or would I need fresh badges for some reason? I'm thinking to take it down to the chrome and start fresh again.
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Old 11-03-2013, 02:38 PM   #6
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If you can get them all the way down to the chrome, you should be good to go.

Be aware that the wrinkling was due to a chemical compatibility issue, and when you try to sand it off, it will likely ball up on the sandpaper because the paint did not cure properly... it's going to be a major pain to strip. Try soaking in paint thinner and see if that will do the job, but it will be easier to start over with a new set of badges.
Rust-Oleum by itself has a very nice finish... I would forgo the clear on something as small and detailed as the badges. My Satoshi center surround is Rust-Oleum white without a clear.

Humidity will generally cause fogging/hazing... an almost white appearance in the clear coat, but the wrinkling is from the solvents in the fresh coat reacting with the previous coat(s).
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Old 11-03-2013, 02:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post
If you can get them all the way down to the chrome, you should be good to go.

Be aware that the wrinkling was due to a chemical compatibility issue, and when you try to sand it off, it will likely ball up on the sandpaper because the paint did not cure properly... it's going to be a major pain to strip. Try soaking in paint thinner and see if that will do the job, but it will be easier to start over with a new set of badges.
Rust-Oleum by itself has a very nice finish... I would forgo the clear on something as small and detailed as the badges. My Satoshi center surround is Rust-Oleum white without a clear.

Humidity will generally cause fogging/hazing... an almost white appearance in the clear coat, but the wrinkling is from the solvents in the fresh coat reacting with the previous coat(s).
Thanks Rich, I think I'll definitely try again, but without the clear coat. I was very pleased with how it looked with just the paint. I only did the clear coat because I thought I needed it as a protection coat over the paint.
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