*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

How deep do you think the scratches are? If you run you fingernail over them do they catch? All buffing is easier when using a machine. That being said, not everyone has access to one. I would try some ScratchX 2.0 or Ultimate Compound my Meguiar's. They are both OTC and with some elbow grease and a MF towel, you can minimize the appearence. W/O a machine, if they are nasty scratches, keep your hopes tamed. Remeber to put some wax where your polished. Good luck!

 

Thanks, They are not that deep your fingernails might catch it a little in some places, but they are very visible on black.

 

I would try the ScratchX 2.0 first. Just remeber, elbow grease!!!! Do not rub the product dry. Just keep working at it small sections at a time. Let us know. And with a black truck, you should invest in Porter Cable

$139 7424XP PORTER-CABLE Car Polisher and Buffer, 6", Orbital, Variable Speed (7424XP)

7424XP. Great polisher. Once you master that, your black paint will look like liquid.

 

thanks for this, just did my car today

 

Whats the best wax to use before winter sets in up here in the Northeast, and what other steps should I take to prep my truck for the harsh winter. I won't have a place to wax once the weather turns too cold for outside.

Currently i wax every two to three weeks with Meguires NXT 2.0, (spring, summer and fall).

Thanks for tha help,
Johnny

 

I have seen people claim the

$21 Collinite 845 Insulator Wax-Easy to Use Carnauba+Polymer Wax Sealant-High Gloss Shine+Durable Hydrophobic Beading & Long Lasting Paint Protection for Cars/Boats/Trucks/RVs & Motorcycles (16 fl oz)

Collinite 845 is the longest lasting wax. They call it thier "winter wax". I have never used it. I always make sure to just put on 3 layers of wax on my last detail of the season. I have used Meguiar's NXT 2.0 for this in the past. However, this year I started using JetSeal 109 and find that it lasts along time. I plan to add 2 coats of JS and 2 coats of wax. Not sure which one I am using seeing I have a few.

If you are lookng for OTC. Go with the NXT 2.0. Do 2 coats one day and 1 last coat a week later. Over the winter, we get some somewhat bearable days here in the NE. You could get some waterless car wash, bring your truck to the self power wash and power wash to get the salt and major grime off and wipe down with the waterless. After, you could use a spray wax (meguiar's, eagle one, etc). That would be a good combo in the winter. Once a month is fine.

 

Thanks RB, I use the NXT 2.0 now, and love it.
For my last wax before winter should I just use the NXT liquid wax, or opt for the NXT paste wax in the can.

Thanks bro, much appreciated.
Johnny

 

I would use whatever you have. No need to buy anything new. Both are equally good. I find paste easier to get a thin layer, which is really the key in waxing. Multiple thin layers always outlast and outshine one thick layer IMO. If your feeling up to it, give it a clay bar first. Save you some time inthe spring when you have to clay again.

Glad I could help.

 

$21 Collinite 845 Insulator Wax-Easy to Use Carnauba+Polymer Wax Sealant-High Gloss Shine+Durable Hydrophobic Beading & Long Lasting Paint Protection for Cars/Boats/Trucks/RVs & Motorcycles (16 fl oz)

Collinite 845 is a fantastic winter time wax. I've used a lot of it on my own cars as well as on customers' cars. Application is very easy on and off. Another option is Collinite 476 paste wax. Apparently, it provides even better protection, but application isn't as easy (can be hard to remove if you apply to much). I've not used it, but one of these days I'll get around to buying some. You can either order both products online, or if you have a Harbor Freight store near you, you can check there.

If you're going OTC though, NXT 2.0 or

$20 Duragloss 105 Automotive Total Performance Polish - 16 oz.

Duragloss 105 are your best options. DG 105 is labeled as a polish, but it's actually a sealant. DG can be found at CarQuest stores.

 

I recently bought my new Tacoma about a month ago. I want the absolute best for my truck as long as I'm able to tend to the washing, waxing, and all of the rest. I am curious as to what the "scratch" marks are that you can notice on a vehicle's paint, even on one that's basically brand new? I just waxed a couple little spots that were on my truck from when I brought it home from the lot. I took the wax off with a terry cloth, which now that I read some of this thread, looks like a no-no. Was this the mistake that I made that caused these fine little marks that you can only see in "perfect light at the right angle"? Also, if this is the case, what can I do to remove these places and prevent any from coming up in the future?

thanks,
Jonathan

If terry cloths are a no-no I'm going to only save a couple of mine and light the rest on fire!

 

Jonathan -

The scratches you're seeing in the paint are called swirls. They are tiny scratches in the paint. Those scratches are basically peaks and valleys in the paint and the light refracts off of them, showing you the ugly scratches. Polishing is the method for removal of said swirls.

Since you are wanting to learn more about detailing and are starting from bottom (please don't take offense, we all start there), I'd suggest checking out the link below. It's a very thorough guide to detailing. It should answer most if not all of your questions and give you more than enough knowledge to care for your truck.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/

 

If yoy are really into detailing, adding some sort of machine polisher makes keeping the finish up a piece of cake. The easist machine to use is the Porter Cable 7424XP. By far. Next up the ladder is the Flex 3401. Then comes a rotary type polisher/ (Think a grinder with a polishing pad). A rotary polisher is not for a new detailer. Polishing by hand is a killer both on the clock and the rotator cuff.

To really get the most shine out of your finish, using a clay bar is key. After a good clay session. The key to polishing is knowing what to use. This obviously comes from experience. Looking at a finish and thengrabbing your poduct is a learned skill. One always wants to take the least aggresive route to save clear coat.

The number of polishes out there is ridculous. And everyone has an opinion. Your best bet is to try different ones. You will learn what you like.

You say you wash by hand, and that is great. But do you have a good wash technique? And I mean no offense at all. The #1 reason a car gets filled with siwrl marks is a bad wash technique. I know it sounds kinda loopy, but it is true.

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2386

There are a number of good videos int that link. Not too mention I find Adam's products outstanding.

A few more good links for ya:

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7011

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7228

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26009

All good reads.

 

What is the best way to remove a scratch on the plastic that covers the gauges? I would like to purchase something that should hopefully remove it since it doesn't appear deep at all. What would you suggest that I can buy locally?

thanks again

 

Meguiars PlastX is pretty good. Help out. Those scratches never to go away no matter what I try. I only clean them when its really needed.

 

Hello:

I have a Super White 09 Tacoma Access cab 4X4 which i bought in Feb 09... Great truck, i love it. I have detailed and waxed it a couple times after reading this thread. But I have a question which is bothering me....

I use the NXT Liquid wax and have done the Mother's clay bar treatment, I use Mequire's soap and do not use really anything else. My truck looks great after washing and waxing it but since i live in FL it rains quite frequently. I have been noticing a black streak that comes down the side of the truck under the access cab windows - usually after it stops raining and it drives me crazy... it is very noticeable since the truck is white.

The access cab windows do not open on the 09, but there appears to be a rubber gasket around the window, it is recessed as the window is larger than the gasket but i can see it. Could this black stuff be coming from the rubber gasket around the window and what, if anything, could i do to stop it??? I have never put anything on that gasket, and i don't think i could if i wanted to since the gap is really small.

Does anyone else have this problem?? Could it be something the manufacturer put on it to protect the rubber??

Thank you for any help

 

It is dirt and grime that gets on there and when it rains the water seeps around that window and thus the dirty drip. Best thing to do is keep a 4oz spray bottle with either detail spray or a waterless car wash product in there. Keep a MF towel with that 4oz bottle. Use as needed. Wash towel as needed. No way to stop that dirty drip. 50/50 with 90%+ alcohol/DISTILLED water works just as goodonly smells worse.

Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer is real nice to have on hand in the detail bag/box.
However, look into a waterless car wash product. With that rain you get, you can do your truck in like 10-15 mins. 2 MF towels is all you need. I use this one:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-439-new-adams-waterless-car-wash-combo.aspx

Really is the best one I have used. Optimum No Rinse (ONR) is good, but requires some water. Adams stuff is spray and wipe and leaves a crazy shine.

Hope that helps. Oh yeah, MF means MicroFiber if you didn't know.

 

Thanks man. That was kinda what i was afraid of, no fix other than to wash/wipe it off.... the problem is, i would be wiping it every day... bummer.

 

Thus is the life of a detail junkie. One of the main reason I got Silver over White. I have no garage here and RI and that dirty drip would drive me nuts. The white always showed it. The silver took a few times to stand out. I still love that White. White in RI is a tough color to have. Unless it is a garage queen. DD's always look dirty. I would be out there 3x a week lol. Good luck with you truck! Great truck and great color!