*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

[BlueSilver]

Originally Posted by mShu7

Yep, sure do. After you apply 303 to the entire entire, you can go back with a dry microfiber towel and wipe off any excess for areas like that, although I've never had problems just allowing it to dry on it's own.

It looks nice, but not recommended.
Shiny shit on your steering wheel, shift knobs and other controls makes them slick. You do not want your steering wheel slick becuase it becomes a safety issue.

[mShu7]

Originally Posted by BlueSilver

It looks nice, but not recommended.
Shiny shit on your steering wheel, shift knobs and other controls makes them slick. You do not want your steering wheel slick becuase it becomes a safety issue.

Who doesn't recommend it? It's a personal preference. If you go over it with a dry MF towel, there's no slickness issue and the surface is still protected.

[BlueSilver]

Originally Posted by mShu7

Who doesn't recommend it? It's a personal preference. If you go over it with a dry MF towel, there's no slickness issue and the surface is still protected.

The companies that manufacture the products

[mShu7]

Originally Posted by BlueSilver

The companies that manufacture the products

Maybe it's crap-product companies like Armor All. Out of all the boutique products I've tried, I've never seen any of them recommend NOT using their products on the dash.

For any company that does recommend against it, it's probably just one of those "stupid people" warning labels. Kind of like serving hot coffee and the cup warning you that the contents are hot...duh!

[flyinn]

two questions:

What good if any will a "spray on while wet wax do?" Will using a product like this allow me to go longer between hand waxing?

Does using a product like 303 interior protectant take away my new car smell?

Thanx

[mShu7]

flyinn -

Spray waxes typically are not as good as traditional waxes. However, Optimum Car Wax (not available locally) is a great spray wax that will yield the same, if not better protection than some traditional waxes. Another option is Duragloss AquaWax (available at Car Quest stores). I don't think it provides as much protection as OCW, but it's in expensive and it's more of a spray on sealant so you can use it on windows as well. The best part about both of these products is that they are so easy to use. Spray it on the surface, spread it around, turn your towel over for a final buff. Neither products produce any hazing or anything like that so there's no wait time.

As far as your new car smell, that will slowly fade away, even without the use of any interior products. 303 doesn't really have a scent like some other products. I'd say that if you are wanting to keep the new car smell as long as possible and not use any products with heavy fragrances, 303 would be a great choice.

[BlueSilver]

Originally Posted by mShu7

Maybe it's crap-product companies like Armor All. Out of all the boutique products I've tried, I've never seen any of them recommend NOT using their products on the dash.

For any company that does recommend against it, it's probably just one of those "stupid people" warning labels. Kind of like serving hot coffee and the cup warning you that the contents are hot...duh!

wasn't the dash we were talking about, it was the steering wheel

[flyinn]

Originally Posted by mShu7

flyinn -

Spray waxes typically are not as good as traditional waxes. However, Optimum Car Wax (not available locally) is a great spray wax that will yield the same, if not better protection than some traditional waxes. Another option is Duragloss AquaWax (available at Car Quest stores). I don't think it provides as much protection as OCW, but it's in expensive and it's more of a spray on sealant so you can use it on windows as well. The best part about both of these products is that they are so easy to use. Spray it on the surface, spread it around, turn your towel over for a final buff. Neither products produce any hazing or anything like that so there's no wait time.

As far as your new car smell, that will slowly fade away, even without the use of any interior products. 303 doesn't really have a scent like some other products. I'd say that if you are wanting to keep the new car smell as long as possible and not use any products with heavy fragrances, 303 would be a great choice.

Great. I found the OCW online for $16.00, just bought a bottle.

Thanks

[mShu7]

Originally Posted by BlueSilver

wasn't the dash we were talking about, it was the steering wheel

My opinion applies to either one.

[CometKat]

Originally Posted by mShu7

Yep, sure do. After you apply 303 to the entire entire, you can go back with a dry microfiber towel and wipe off any excess for areas like that, although I've never had problems just allowing it to dry on it's own.

After this recommendation I put 303 on the steering wheel and the shifter. Then I wiped off the excess with a terry towel. I’d say there is a slight waxiness for a day or two that then goes away. I plan on continuing to protect these parts with 303 in the future.

[Hot Tamale]

I just washed my truck using Meguiars and pulled it into the garage to dry it off. I still ended up with water spots. Any advice?

[coma-tose]

Mshu7, I posted this some time ago but never heard back. I would greatly appreciate your wisdom. Thanks again!

Originally Posted by coma-tose

Mshu7, I read your post about brand new cars needing a clay bar treatment because of the fallout it may have picked up while being transported to the dealership. I'm picking up an '09 Tacoma in a few weeks and want to make sure I start off on the right foot. I heard once that I should wait to wax a brand new car for a few months because the paint needs time to fully cure. What's your take on this? Should I also polish and wax it after the clay bar as soon as I take delivery of it or wait a few months for the wax job? BTW, I work at the airport, directly downwind from the runway so preventing fallout damage (brake dust, jet exhaust, etc.) is a huge problem for me. Got any advice to help keep fallout damage to a minimum? Would a california duster help? Thanks in advance for your help.

[CometKat]

Originally Posted by Hot Tamale

I just washed my truck using Meguiars and pulled it into the garage to dry it off. I still ended up with water spots. Any advice?

I just finished washing my truck this morning also. First I tried one of those squeegees and thought it was worthless. It just chattered across the paint. Then I used these Vroom micro-fiber drying towels I bought at Target. These work really well. I bought four of them but only needed three to get the truck really dry.

[mShu7]

Originally Posted by Hot Tamale

I just washed my truck using Meguiars and pulled it into the garage to dry it off. I still ended up with water spots. Any advice?

Try using some quick detailer and a microfiber cloth. If that doesn't work, try vinegar. But if you use vinegar, re-apply your wax b/c it will remove it.

[mShu7]

Originally Posted by coma-tose

Mshu7, I posted this some time ago but never heard back. I would greatly appreciate your wisdom. Thanks again!

Sorry for not getting back to you. Sometimes I mistakenly overlook posts.

Anyway, new car paint is baked on at the factory. Plus, it usually takes at least a month to ship to the dealership and then it may sit on the lot for a while. Even if you were to pick-up your vehicle straight from the factory, it would still be safe to wax. Having a panel painted at a body shop is a different story though since they typically can't bake the car to cure the paint.

Polishing is up to you. If you're working by hand, I'd say clay (use lots of quick detailer/clay lube) and then throw on a sealant or wax.

Since your truck will be parked in an area with a lot of airborne contamination, it's really important that you wash and wax often. I typically clay my vehicles twice a year, but you may want to go for like 4 times a year (or as needed). Just remember that claying removes any kind of wax or sealant so you'll always need to re-apply after claying.

Hope this answers your question.

[coma-tose]

Thanks so much for the info Mshu7! I'll definitely be clay barring the truck more often. What are your thoughts on California Dusters? Worth the $ and effort?

[altifron]

Originally Posted by coma-tose

Thanks so much for the info Mshu7! I'll definitely be clay barring the truck more often. What are your thoughts on California Dusters? Worth the $ and effort?

my truck is never dusty its DIRTY
it takes more effort to wash your truck and dry it but the results speek of its self
i personaly think these things are god in sandy areas but otherwise i would never own one

[mShu7]

Originally Posted by coma-tose

Thanks so much for the info Mshu7! I'll definitely be clay barring the truck more often. What are your thoughts on California Dusters? Worth the $ and effort?

I don't have enough experience to give them a thorough thumbs up or down. Just be careful if you're going to use one. You don't want any dirt getting drug around on the paint. It will just scratch it up.

[Anthony]

i for one love the cali duster. just be sure and let it sit on some newspaper for a week or so after you open it like theinstructions say. the more you use it, the better it will work. chances are it will lealve some streaks when you first use it... quick detailer can remove that but ive been using the same one for about 12 years, i love it

[nlt2836]

Mshu7 and Anthony, I found this kit on autogeeks website and I was wondering what you thought of it.

Its the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Total Concours Kit, and it includes:
16 oz. Wolfgang Auto Bathe
16 oz. Wolfgang Clay Lubricant
100 grams Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay Bar
16 oz. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
16 oz. Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer
16 oz. Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz
2 Cobra Microfiber Detailing Cloths
2 Cobra Microfiber Applicator Pads
2 Poly Foam Applicators
Wolfgang Instructional DVD
Wolfgang Handbook

The Kit is $125.
Also wondering if you have recommendation on a good starter set of the cobra towels.

Thanks for the great tips!