*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

[Anthony]

Hopefully you understand the "pouring water" comment I made was an extreme exageration

[rick]

fair enough. i never liked it and i will avoid using it

[mShu7]

Sorry to everybody that's been posting. I've been busy and haven't had time to get on here lately. Anyway.....

CometKat - All depends on how often you want to re-apply. If you don't mind doing it once a month, go for it. If you want to go 2 to 3 months w/o applying, check out some of the other products that I recommend.

As far as Armor All, it's well known by quality detailers that it's just pure junk. There are many reports of AA doing damage to interior surfaces. Even if it's water-based, it doesn't mean that there aren't other harmful chemicals in the product. 303, for example, is known for top quality formulations. AA is not and has never been. If you step up to a quality interior protectant, you won't go back to AA. Go to AutoGeek.net and read about 303 (again, just an example of a good protectant). Also read about Optimum. Now, do you really think the $4.99 bottle of Armor All contains the same quality ingredients as products such as 303 and Optimum? Hell, I think you can get some of the AA at the dollar store. You get what you pay for!

chris4x4 - Clean it and then apply something like Aerospace 303 Protectant.

[CometKat]

Originally Posted by mShu7

As far as Armor All, it's well known by quality detailers that it's just pure junk.

Thanks for the response. I already own a bottle of 303 that I was using for a different application. So what is the best way to clean the Armor-all of the plastic bits?

[mShu7]

Originally Posted by CometKat

Thanks for the response. I already own a bottle of 303 that I was using for a different application. So what is the best way to clean the Armor-all of the plastic bits?

A good all-purpose cleaner should do the trick. If you want something for local pick-up, Simple Green (diluted) works great.

[Hot Tamale]

Once again, thanks for the great info. I had been using AA for years and never heard anything negative until reading this forum. I've only been a member of the Tacoma "family" for about 2 weeks and have already learned a great deal. Thanks!

[CometKat]

I’m still not convinced using Armor-All is all that bad. I think mostly they killed off their reputation in the early days when they hadn’t yet got the product right. However, there are so many excellent products on the market there is no need for loyalty.

[mShu7]

Hot Tamale - Thanks for the kind words! I'm glad to help out.

[BlueSilver]

I like Armour All cleansing wipes. Don't use a harsh household cleaner to clean your plastics, THAT can cause a drying out of the material and crack it in the future.

I like cleaning interiors with glass cleaner..

[rocivm]

im agree

[CometKat]

Well I cleaned off the Armor-All on the interior and used 303 instead. For sure 303 has a nicer look and since you can also use it on the painted bits it is easier to apply.

Has anybody used fabric guard on their seats? I was going to use some on the headrests of my regular cab since they are so exposed.

[CometKat]

Originally Posted by Anthony

Hopefully you understand the "pouring water" comment I made was an extreme exageration

Sorry,
I overreacted with my comment. However, it would have been more accurate to say pouring grease all over the interior.

[mShu7]

Originally Posted by CometKat

Has anybody used fabric guard on their seats? I was going to use some on the headrests of my regular cab since they are so exposed.

I have used 303 Fabric Guard and like it a lot...better than Scottguard. SG has a more chemical smell to it where FG smells nicer. It works just as advertised and is not "toxic" like SG.

[Ridgerunner]

Originally Posted by mShu7

I have used 303 Fabric Guard and like it a lot...better than Scottguard. SG has a more chemical smell to it where FG smells nicer. It works just as advertised and is not "toxic" like SG.

Mike- the Klasse I use contained petrolliates back in the day that would make you high halfway thru a waxjob but now it doesn't. Is it waterbased now? It's just as effective as always-so why did they need that back then?

[mShu7]

Originally Posted by Ridgerunner

Mike- the Klasse I use contained petrolliates back in the day that would make you high halfway thru a waxjob but now it doesn't. Is it waterbased now? It's just as effective as always-so why did they need that back then?

The only thing I can think is that a year or two ago a lot of products had to be re-formulated because of VOC regulations. I don't remember which kind I had, but I've never heard anyone complain of Klasse's durability, if that makes you feel any better .

[CometKat]

mShu7,

I know you are probably not supposed to do this, but do you put 303 on the steering wheel and other parts you touch?

[mShu7]

Originally Posted by CometKat

mShu7,

I know you are probably not supposed to do this, but do you put 303 on the steering wheel and other parts you touch?

Yep, sure do. After you apply 303 to the entire entire, you can go back with a dry microfiber towel and wipe off any excess for areas like that, although I've never had problems just allowing it to dry on it's own.

[Ridgerunner]

Thanks for your answer earlier MIKE

[mShu7]

No problem RR!

[coma-tose]

Mshu7, I read your post about brand new cars needing a clay bar treatment because of the fallout it may have picked up while being transported to the dealership. I'm picking up an '09 Tacoma in a few weeks and want to make sure I start off on the right foot. I heard once that I should wait to wax a brand new car for a few months because the paint needs time to fully cure. What's your take on this? Should I also polish and wax it after the clay bar as soon as I take delivery of it or wait a few months for the wax job? BTW, I work at the airport, directly downwind from the runway so preventing fallout damage (brake dust, jet exhaust, etc.) is a huge problem for me. Got any advice to help keep fallout damage to a minimum? Would a california duster help? Thanks in advance for your help.