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Old 09-10-2012, 08:09 PM   #21
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Any clue on what the price differece might be?
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:31 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CayucosTacoma View Post
Any clue on what the price differece might be?
~$50

No regulator or guage on sliders.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:46 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IluvTEA View Post
Subbed for pics. Curious how to see how the valve is protected from rock damage...
Currently the sliders are only being used for the storage of air. There is only one hole in the sliders. Air is pumped into and out of the same location. The quick connect is still on the compressor. Remember, I was simply using this set as a test set. I wanted to keep 100psi in them as often as possible, to see if they fail. If I do these for production, they will have a bung on each rail for hooking up to. Also, a pressure relief valve will be used to empty the sliders of moisture.

I will post pictures of the ones currently on my truck tomorrow to give all of you an idea of how it is done.
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:24 PM   #26
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awesome idea
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:55 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWreck View Post
My initial thoughts are "Yea! Why not?" But my thinking side of my brain screams "Liability, Liability, Liability!"

I wouldn't charge much more than I am currently. I would have to have customers sign something stating they know the dangers that come with pressurizing steel. I simply don't have the equipment to make a perfect, air tight seal. If they didn't hold air, I would then have to reimburse for the difference. Then people may say they didn't hold, just to get some monies back.

You all understand my thought process now.

Keep the comments coming.
Technically, I'm sure you can make this work. If I didn't think you could weld, I wouldn't be PMing you about buying an unpressurized pair.

Legally, I think you'd be better off avoiding any pressurized production. Pressure vessels of all types are regulated by the government, which is why you'll find certification data on even the cheesiest Harbor Freight air tank. Even with a signed release from a customer, I think you'd still run afoul of commercial regulations if you sell an uncertified pressure vessel. ASME code covers the design and testing of pressure vessels, and I'm pretty sure you don't want to go through all of that.

Here's something that may work, though. If you built the item with an "inspection port" that just happened to be 1/2" NPT, individuals could do whatever they damn well pleased with the product. By not advertising or promoting the product as a pressure vessel, I don't think you'd have any liability issues. In fact, a brief disclaimer stating that the product wasn't a certified pressure vessel might take care of everything.

Regardless, before selling one, I think you'd be wise to discuss the matter with an attorney. An air compressor shop might be able to answer questions about tank certification, too. Great idea, and I hope you find a way to make it work.
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:23 AM   #28
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skygear, I think you'd be better off with a manifold separated from the slider/tanks for all of those needs. It'd be a lot less expensive, and you could run pipe or hose right where you wanted it instead of where it'd have to end up if you had to connect to the sliders directly.
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:24 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
Your right. I was looking at the aluminum tank and all those additional holes were looking good.

I'd still like 3 holes on them - fill, sensor, out.

What do you think as far as the psi rating should be for the sliders/tank?

Manifold for 12 bucks


@OP - PM me. I'm Very interested.
Looks pretty good. I'd guess that the maximum pressure need only be a little higher than is commonly produced by on-board air compressors. Anything more seems pointless.

Oh, and leave DWreck alone. He needs to be totally focused on getting my sliders shipped. Like a shark with a frickin' laser beam. All of this bung hole talk can wait.
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:00 AM   #30
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Just read through these recent posts. I'll have to come back to them later. Too many words to process before my coffee...
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:07 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 taco View Post
interesting, what about in a bumper?
I know a guy who used an AC compressor to fill the rear tube bumper they built on an old merc station wagon. The merc pulled the dirt track car trailer. It held 150psi
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:58 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoorDing View Post
Technically, I'm sure you can make this work. If I didn't think you could weld, I wouldn't be PMing you about buying an unpressurized pair.

Legally, I think you'd be better off avoiding any pressurized production. Pressure vessels of all types are regulated by the government, which is why you'll find certification data on even the cheesiest Harbor Freight air tank. Even with a signed release from a customer, I think you'd still run afoul of commercial regulations if you sell an uncertified pressure vessel. ASME code covers the design and testing of pressure vessels, and I'm pretty sure you don't want to go through all of that.

Here's something that may work, though. If you built the item with an "inspection port" that just happened to be 1/2" NPT, individuals could do whatever they damn well pleased with the product. By not advertising or promoting the product as a pressure vessel, I don't think you'd have any liability issues. In fact, a brief disclaimer stating that the product wasn't a certified pressure vessel might take care of everything.

Regardless, before selling one, I think you'd be wise to discuss the matter with an attorney. An air compressor shop might be able to answer questions about tank certification, too. Great idea, and I hope you find a way to make it work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
My thoughts on it are this.
1. DoorDing said a mouthful.
2. Lots of Air Tanks are coated internally with a paint or PTFE or SOMETHING to stop moisture from rusting them out. I understand you adding a drain valve, but from all the propane tanks I have converted, I think the paint coating is the best cost effective way to ensure the longevity of the sliders.
3. I think its a great idea. I was looking at tanks and still thing right now its my best option. UNLESS you got me some killer price on the new design with air.
4. If your sure your welds are sound, fill with water and pressure test to 400psi
http://www.ehow.com/about_6696416_in...o-testing.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44cuKCCzUwk
5. as far as holes go. - personally I'd like a few holes in the tank for different accessories.
on average, most storage tanks have 5-6 'holes'
a. 1- for sensor
b. 2- fill
c. 3- out
d. additional for other accessories at different operational psi. (Water tank, air tools, air ride)

--- If I got one from you I'd use the hole configuration as such-
-1. in from Viair 450c-ig compressor
-2. in/pressure sensor for shutoff
-3. out to opposite slider/storage tank
-4. out to on-board water tank
-5. out to air-ride airbag LEFT
-6. out to air-ride airbag RIGHT
-7. out for Air tools LEFT
-8. out for Air tools RIGHT
-9. Out for Lockers (in the future, havent got them yet)
-10. Out for Air gauge?
-11. Drain/ Blow Off/ Accessory LEFT
-12. Drain/ Blow Off/ Accessory RIGHT
400psi is too high. I'm not certain the tubing itself woldn't seperate. I would have three bungs, in, out, and drain. If you want more, I recommend the regulator below...
Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
I have a couple other questions too.

Are ALL the tubes 'drilled' to allow air into every nook and cranny? or is it just the Large exterior slider bars?

You said, "about 4 galons of air" is that each side? or in total? The more I think about this, the more I like it.

I was looking at a 220psi tank, but I really don't need that much pressure. Its a want not a need. Think it could be 150psi without an issue? or would you be able to get it up to 220 safely?
Everything is pressurized except for 3 of the 4 legs from frame to slider. Yes, it's roughly 4 gallons total.
Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
And I guess the important question is, CAN you put multiple holes on the on it? and if so, how many?

I imagine the Blow off valve(s) could go on either ends of the sliders for drainage on the inner most part.

I'm still having a VISUAL issue as to where this hole actually is. Is that a pic of the inner part of the frame?
The picture is the inside of the frame at the carrier bearing crossmember. Like said above, 3 holes in the sliders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoorDing View Post
skygear, I think you'd be better off with a manifold separated from the slider/tanks for all of those needs. It'd be a lot less expensive, and you could run pipe or hose right where you wanted it instead of where it'd have to end up if you had to connect to the sliders directly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
Your right. I was looking at the aluminum tank and all those additional holes were looking good.

I'd still like 3 holes on them - fill, sensor, out.

What do you think as far as the psi rating should be for the sliders/tank?

Manifold for 12 bucks


@OP - PM me. I'm Very interested.
I would only probably test them at 200psi, rating them somewhere in the low-mid 100.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoorDing View Post
Looks pretty good. I'd guess that the maximum pressure need only be a little higher than is commonly produced by on-board air compressors. Anything more seems pointless.

Oh, and leave DWreck alone. He needs to be totally focused on getting my sliders shipped. Like a shark with a frickin' laser beam. All of this bung hole talk can wait.
Agreed
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:00 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
What do you think of inner coating them? Or would that be something we would have to do ourselves. Fill it with.a can of paint, swish around, dump out paint and let dry.
Something like a fuel tank coating may work, but I'm not sure that's really necessary. A coating could also possibly trap moisture between the inner tank wall and itself, defeating the purpose. I'd also be concerned that whatever coating or treatment was used could eventually end up adding particulates to the air as it degraded, and that wouldn't be good.

Adding a few drops of oil to the system, along with draining the water, would probably be fine. Most air tanks are bare steel inside and seem to last for a very long time with minimal maintenance. I wouldn't worry about it.

Of course, Derek might be persuaded to make a set of stainless steel sliders ... for a price.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:07 PM   #34
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Bruce - Quattrokiwi has air tank built in his bumper. It's cool, but what happens in an accident?
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:20 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1337Taco View Post
Bruce - Quattrokiwi has air tank built in his bumper. It's cool, but what happens in an accident?
At the likely pressure and construction involved, either a fitting/line would fail (no big deal), or a weak spot in the tank would fail, leading to a small tear (no big deal). To me, the pressure, volume, and materials involved just don't look to be a huge hazard. I'd be more concerned about the folks running around with CO2 or SCUBA tanks for OBA, and I'm not concerned about them, either.

I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure it won't look like the end of Jaws.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=It4KQulxfwQ
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:24 PM   #36
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:38 PM   #37
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:23 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
Ok - well it boils down to this then. Derek - can you make me a set for a DCSB?
What would stainless run? I'm sure its not reasonable, but just curious.
I'm not currently set up for stainless, but I will check the price difference for you.
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:41 PM   #39
how hard can it be?
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seems like a very interesting idea. curious how they would hold up after taking a beating. i assume that everything would hold up just fine and you wouldn't have issues. good luck, hope they hold up.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:11 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idaholandho View Post
Wouldnt it be easier just to place a tank in or under the truck protected? Maybe not as innovative but traditional, proven, more safe and would hold more air. just sayin.
ARB wants around $160 for a 1 gallon, aluminum tank, so there may be a market for a 4 gallon solution like this if the price is right. I really think the only real issue on the user end is whether the sliders will remain air tight when used as intended. As long as the ports are protected, I'll bet they will, but only real world abuse will provide proof.

Is it very common for sliders to become so damaged that the tubing is torn open? I'm guessing not.
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