Anything welding

And a few projects at my last job building all kinds of stuff for oilfield work:

 

Ahh, here is one of my very first mig welds I did years ago, I was making light brackets for jlg's:

 

And a few of my very first projects I built when I was learning to weld while taking welding classes in college years ago using chop saws, grinder and a harbor freight pos stick welder with a awful duty cycle haha:

 

99% sure they are aluminum

 

They are Alloy. Just asked Vin. Bummer.

 

Some stainless stick welding

 

Welds weird and slow doesn't it? Lol

 

Not near as weird as the Nickel rods for cast iron do

 

All SCS wheels are aluminum. In order to properly convert a wheel to a true beadlock you will need access to a large lathe to remove the original outer ring and create the exact press fit that is required to install the beadlock ring. This will have to be a very large lathe that can handle the size wheel you wish to modify, which by the way are not something you will find at any old machine shop. Also a press that can install the beadlock ring properly. Then a TIG welder that can handle up to at least 3/8" aluminum along with a rotary table to spin the wheel while welding. Then you will need access to a balancing machine and any other additional machinery required to correct the balance on the wheel so you don't get death wobble when you drive down the street. Or you can pay OMF $200 a wheel and save yourself a ridiculous amount of work and headache to get the job done by guys who have done it thousands of times and know what they are doing...

I was a professional welder for many years doing offroad stuff up to high tolerance aerospace parts with welders that cost more than my truck. Still would not do this myself in a 100 years. You will save a ton of headache just asking your boss for a few overtime shifts a week and paying the pros than attempting this yourself.

Now if we are talking steel wheels on a trail only rig, then go for it. Balance is a moot point with 35" tires at 10 psi...

My 2 cents, good luck with your choice either way!

 

This is sound advice. I assumed it was as simple as welding the ring on em and going. Had no idea how involved it is.

Will be sending em off now. If they were steel, I wouldn't have a problem doing it. But alloy= not my specialty.

They aren't gonna be my DD's anyway. They're gonna be my trail set of wheels and tires.

Thanks so much man for breaking it down and explaining the process!

 

yup i'm dumb, theyre forged not cast. welds look good i'm sure they'll hold fine, mine look similar from the po and i haven't really had a problem

 

I hate running 308s. TIG all of the things.

 

Thought I might be able to get an answer here without starting a new thread. I am going to tackle some rust I have on my sliders (welded to the frame) thanks to my city using copious amounts of salt (enough to help Margaritaville for 10 years after an apocalypse). I have some concerns about protecting the paint and heard about 3M's welding and spark deflection paper but it is over $100 a roll Harbor Freight have welding blankets that I have looked into and for the price, it's a no brainer.

My question is how does the blanket compare to the paper? I don't have a welder (yet) so until then, I feel the paper would just be a waste.

Any information would greatly help me out. TIA!

 

If it was me I would just go for it and wire brush the rust or whatever you plan to do. Your paint will be fine.

 

just use normal brown paper and masking tape... you definitely want something, the little pieces of metal and rust will destroy anything. however, they won't be hot enough to burn through the normal brown paper.
if youre really concerned, use some tin foil over the paper.
welding blanket is legit but unnecessary for what you will be doing imo

 

Time to get this old thing rebuilt and back into the workforce. Its not a SA200 but it should make a decent fenceliner rig.

 

That will,make a great welder just get it up and running

 

It runs now but needs electrical work. It only runs on high idle and you have to turn it all the way up to burn 1/8" 7018s. My dad bought it new idk how many years ago and its just been sitting here collecting dust for the past 10 years. He said I can have it since I was looking for a machine to put on the back of a truck lol. Guessing getting the electrical side gone through and rebuilt should be around $500-$700. Then gonna get the cover and face and everything powdercoated as well.

 

I can tell you where to get faceplates and all you can pm me if you want. I got my welder completely refurbished for 500 runs like a uh well like a welder should lol

 

Neighbor wants me to repair the ramp on his trailer, pretty simple.
Replace the bottom tube, and one of the support tubes, and plate the hole in the top tube, and replace one of the hinges. Any ideas on how much to charge?