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Old 09-19-2013, 08:00 PM   #1941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Tac0ma View Post
I wouldn't use that machine. I use the Eastwood Mig 175. Id recommend a gas machine instead of straight flux core, will be a lot easier for you to teach yourself on than with straight flux.
Thanks for the advice. Stupid question - do you have to buy tanks of gas for a gas MIG welder?

I have to say $500 is steep for me. Needless to say part of the attraction of the other machine is that it's just $100 and people don't seem to hate it.
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:04 PM   #1942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeeSix View Post
Thanks for the advice. Stupid question - do you have to buy tanks of gas for a gas MIG welder?

I have to say $500 is steep for me. Needless to say part of the attraction of the other machine is that it's just $100 and people don't seem to hate it.
Yea I just went to Praxair and leased a bottle from them.

Price is hard to beat but you deffinatly get what you pay for, the Mig 135 isn't $500 though, iirc its about $300
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:08 PM   #1943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeeSix View Post
Thanks for the advice. Stupid question - do you have to buy tanks of gas for a gas MIG welder?

I have to say $500 is steep for me. Needless to say part of the attraction of the other machine is that it's just $100 and people don't seem to hate it.
You don't need gas. You can go the Fluxcore route. Generally it's reverse polarity and good to go. Gas is good to have for sure.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:12 PM   #1944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Tac0ma View Post
Id recommend a gas machine instead of straight flux core, will be a lot easier for you to teach yourself on than with straight flux.
X100000
I got to use a Gas wire feed at my uncles body shop, 1,000 times better than the flux core machine we have.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:40 PM   #1945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 taco View Post
X100000
I got to use a Gas wire feed at my uncles body shop, 1,000 times better than the flux core machine we have.
Having gas definitely makes for a better looking weld. But, if you're going to be welding outside in a breezy condition, then Fluxcore it is-your shielding gas will be cast to the wind otherwise.
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:12 AM   #1946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian408 View Post
Having gas definitely makes for a better looking weld. But, if you're going to be welding outside in a breezy condition, then Fluxcore it is-your shielding gas will be cast to the wind otherwise.
That's when I break out the stick welder! Rather burn rods than mig wire anyday
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:26 AM   #1947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Tac0ma View Post
That's when I break out the stick welder! Rather burn rods than mig wire anyday
Not everyone will have that choice.
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:36 AM   #1948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92dlxman View Post
if your not familiar with cast welding, don't expect it to even make it up the driveway. as stated you need to pre-heat at least to prevent most cracks. I think post-heat is a major plus too.
This ^ when I weld cast the parts are preheated to around 400 degrees In my powder coat curing oven welded and stuck right back in the 400 degree oven for about 10 to 15 min then we turn it off and crack the door to let it cool SLOW! I haven't had any issues with this method and i weld a lot of cast pipe fittings and other things for the oil guys next door.
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:41 AM   #1949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLee View Post
This ^ when I weld cast the parts are preheated to around 400 degrees In my powder coat curing oven welded and stuck right back in the 400 degree oven for about 10 to 15 min then we turn it off and crack the door to let it cool SLOW! I haven't had any issues with this method and i weld a lot of cast pipe fittings and other things for the oil guys next door.
My preheat/postheat setup

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Old 09-20-2013, 08:35 PM   #1950
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Heated till hot. Welded hot. And used the oven method used above.

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Old 09-20-2013, 08:45 PM   #1951
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Saw this thread, anything welding. I wanted in. Just a structural stitch weld on a unistrut support.
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:10 PM   #1952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk1589 View Post
Heated till hot. Welded hot. And used the oven method used above.

Screw pretty, if it holds it holds! I mighta sprung for a scrap yard replacement considering 1. It already grenaded on you, and 2. If I read correctly in the other thread you're putting more than the designed HP and TQ through it.
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:48 PM   #1953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YOTA LOVER View Post
Screw pretty, if it holds it holds! I mighta sprung for a scrap yard replacement considering 1. It already grenaded on you, and 2. If I read correctly in the other thread you're putting more than the designed HP and TQ through it.
Couldn't find one. But yea it's slightly torquey.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:37 PM   #1954
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just got my 211i and torch

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Old 09-24-2013, 07:40 PM   #1955
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Nice Trucky!
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:37 PM   #1956
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Thanks man, I'm pretty excited about it. After seeing all the great work Eric has and can do with his, I felt like I couldn't go wrong with a thermal arc
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:47 PM   #1957
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I got me a little longevity 140 and love it! Its a 115-120 unit and can easily weld 1/4" with flux core.
I think alot of people including myself would like to weld the thicker stuff with gas and not have to switch over to flux wire all the time.. Thats the main reason why its good to go with a 220 unit. And ofcourse so you can weld thicker then 1/4"...
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:46 PM   #1958
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I think best bet is to avoid anything on your trip that you may need sliders for. Wait and do it right. Thrown together bolt on sliders are probably not the best idea, especially if you're drilling a bunch of new holes in the frame. That could easily turn into a weekend project.
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:49 PM   #1959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleCabGuy View Post
Anyone have any opinions about square tubing sliders?
Just got my truck lifted back up and sposed to go wheeling in 2 weeks lol.

Waiting for my car to sell before I order a bender so think ima throw together some bolt on sliders out of square tubing (1/4") before the trip.
I built mine in 2 days.

No need for 1/4" unless your truck is a competition buggy. Mine are .120" wall and I've hit mine pretty hard and used a hi-lift on mine a bunch of times without issue.



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Old 09-25-2013, 08:51 PM   #1960
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Wouldn't be a biggie on the rocks. You're not dragging horizontally over the corners or anything and if you're hitting the front and back corners you're probably doin it wrong. Square tube is stronger too. It's really about look preference
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