Home Improvement Today?

Thanks.Yeah, it feels like latex. I tried the rag already. Maybe I'll give the scotch pad a shot. Trying to avoid refinishing because I'd have to take all the trim down. With kids running around, the dust/fumes and let alone trying to keep their hands off. It'd be almost impossible.

 

...as evil monkey mentioned, ...you might try "slicing" it off w/ a razor blade, or a sharp chisel... one thing I've had luck w/ before is to carefully wipe on a little bit of a product called "krudkutter", ..it can soften the latex paint and might make scraping it off the wood easier... just try not to get it on the wood finish...

 

I'd try the razor blade at a low angle. For scuffs use Old English.


http://www.oldenglishpolish.com/sf2_scratch.shtml

That's what we fixed scratches and scuffs with when I installed cabinets.

 

Thanks guys. I'm going to give the razor a shot. And thanks Medic2230. That Old English looks like exactly what I need for some scratches on the wood.

 

Diluted krudkutter has worked well for me.

 

Yes all that should work with the paint its over an oil based finish so it should not have bonded well.

Anyone interested in an 8k$ 14' walnut slab, makes a great gift... Trips to the lumber place always make me happy till I hand my card over.

 

This store is close to me. For someone without a lot of woodworking machines the store will also do custom cuts and milling at a reasonable cost.

http://www.exoticlumberinc.com/

 

If I know my thickness before hand its 30 cents a bf.
The one planer is 4' wide and handles heavy figure better than mine. 8' by 12" by2' hard maple is heavy too.

 

Ok guys, being a new and first time homeowner I have some very basic jobs that I would like some input on. I have this little storage space under the stairs of my mid entry. The brick foundation porch was leaking through and ruined the wood and frame work. I sealed the brick and removed the wood. I found some extensive damage to the framework as well. So my question: is there anything out there I can put in to help keep any moisture from accumulating again, even though the leak itself is sealed off. Also, how would I approach replacing this framework?

 

What's above that wall ?

 

Is it structural masonry (i.e. foundation wall)? Can it be accessed from outside? I'm assuming it's below grade if it's under the stairs. Best solution would be to apply a waterproofing membrane to the exterior, but that may require excavation which could skyrocket prices and time.

How did you go about sealing it? You could install a moisture/vapor barrier between the brick and framework too. It wouldn't be perfect but could potentially help some. It looks like the mortar is pretty badly deteriorated too.. re-pointing the mortar would help too, but again would be labor intensive and costly.

 

The wood should not be in direct contact with the masonary , I would replace with PT , for sure with the sole plate

 

Fellas, I'm searching for ideas for a 'field' fix for running 2" deep, 1 1/2"- 1 3/4" dado cuts through PT pine and cedar (usually 2 to 4 2xs clamped together). We use a radial arm with an adjusted width dado in shop. However, the only dependable solution in the field is multiple runs with a worm drive and cleaning with a chisel and a rasp which turns a 10 minute shop job into a 2 hour field job. We have tried and killed several 1/2" routers the last few weeks. The only solution I'm working with is ripping the shield off an old worm drive, and re-working it for a "field dado"....but frankly, that would be one dangerous crazy beast.

 

That brick is actually the front side of my porch where it meets the house/foundation. It was leaking where the top of the porch meets the house, running down the front side of the brick and saturating the wood. I cannot actually acess that side of the brick. I used self leveling epoxy sealant by quikrete. I chiseled a grove for the sealant to settle in to. It's rained many times since and no water has leaked through.

 

Tablesaw won't work ?

 

Can you move the wall out from the brick at all? Pt lumber for sure and possibly a vapor barrier between brick and lumber.


1/2 inch router for a 2inch deep dado? Bigger router smaller passes.

 

No...these are 8' to 20' 2x (sometimes 4x or 6x...in non metric terms)beams that we slot every foot or so for rafters to sit into.

 

Because of availability and desire for a field solution, 1/2 is about as large as we can go. I've never seen anything larger than a 1/2" shank without going to a speciality tool and store...If you know of a source I'd love to know because it's quick and easy and we already have the jig!

 

Motor wise bigger. And look for an up spiraled bit

 

So you're routing cedar and it's killing your routers ? Mine would have no problem with that