I'll chime in here. I have a small part time landscaping maintenance company I own. This business stemmed from my love of all things landscaping and outdoors.
You guys using Scotts are throwing your money away. Fertilizer is fertilizer. You're just paying for the name when you buy Scott's. It's kinda like buying Bose speakers. It's a good product...just WAYY overpriced for what you get.
Get a soil test done. Usually $20 from your local county extension office. They'll tell you what you need.
Read this to understand what the numbers on a bag of fert mean
My lawn is all bermuda (Tif-419). I use all Lesco products on my lawn. I have an account with John Deere Landscapes where I buy all my Lesco products. Around here, Bermuda is green from about April til mid October when it goes dormant (usually after the first frost/freeze)
We'll start from January:
While the grass is completely dormant, I spot spray winter weeds with round up or pull them. I apply different products once the grass comes out of dormancy as not to damage the desired turf.
February - Apply Pre-emergent (Lesco Dimension 0-0-7) For those who don't know what pre-emergent is...It creates a chemical "barrier" and prevents weed seeds from germinating.
Mid April - Apply Pre-emergent w/ fert (Lesco 19-3-6) This adds more of a weed prevention barrier for spring weeds and gives the lawn nitrogen for spring green up.
1st of June - Lesco 24-2-11 with 6% Fe(Iron). The iron helps with absorbtion of the nitrogen and helps give it a darker green color.
Mid July - Lesco 24-2-11 w/ 6% Fe
End August - Lesco 24-2-11 w/ 6% Fe
End of September - Lesco Stonewall with Potassium/Potash 0-0-? (Can't remember the # off the top of my head right now) It contains a higher number of potash/potassium so the roots have some food storage for the winter. Stonewall is a pre-emergent to help with winter weeds.
For post-emergence (After the weeds have germinated) I use various products. Depends on the type of weed. I use Lesco 3-way which is a 2-4-D ester that controls most of the broadleaf weeds. Image works well on grassy weeds like various Sedges, poa annua, chickweed, and young crabgrass).
The most important piece of advice is READ THE LABEL!!!!
As for mowing:
I mow weekly for the most part and I mow twice a week during the heavy growth periods. You shouldn't cut off more than 1/3 the length of the grass per cut. It's bad for the grass and can create excessive thatch (NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH MULCHING!). The more bermuda is mowed it creates horizontal growth and prevents the brown scalped look.
I mow mine at 1.5" tall at the beginning of the season and raise it up to 2" at the summer progresses and the temps get higher and rainfall slows.
I always mulch my grass when mowing with the exception of the leaves in the fall I will run once over with the mulching blades then come back over and bag. Mulching cuts the grass into very fine clipping that break down quickly and provide nutrients back into the soil.
Mow your lawn taller during periods of heat and drought. It promotes deeper root growth and drought tolerance.
As for watering. Water infrequent and HEAVY. Short frequent watering creates turf that is weak to periods of drought and promotes disease.
Here's a pic of mine from yesterday. The bermuda is starting to green up. The bare spot you see is just some sand/topsoil mix I added to a low spot. It will fill in in the next few weeks.
This is from last August-ish. It was a little stressed due to lack of rain.