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Old 02-04-2013, 05:12 PM   #81
dont tread on me!
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Cool, I'm pretty sure I can solder them without destruction....We will see...
Ya got more than me,11/98
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:26 PM   #82
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Ya got more than me,11/98
That is great. I'm the last one standing, on this coin (family heirloom), such a devastating disease.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:28 PM   #83
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That is great. I'm the last one standing, on this coin (family heirloom), such a devastating disease.
That's cool. I'm only a few years from when my father died from it.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:38 PM   #84
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That's cool. I'm only a few years from when my father died from it.
I know this place very well, watched my mother, aunt and many others lose this battle. I hope to break the cycle in my family.
It's ironic though, everything I do, including trying to learn plumbing is all part of my mania. Many wonder why I removed 76 cubic yards of soil from my basement in 5 gallon buckets. Most of the answer can be found on that coin. It keeps me off the streets so to speak, and definitely helps me sleep.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:04 PM   #85
dont tread on me!
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I know this place very well, watched my mother, aunt and many others lose this battle. I hope to break the cycle in my family.
It's ironic though, everything I do, including trying to learn plumbing is all part of my mania. Many wonder why I removed 76 cubic yards of soil from my basement in 5 gallon buckets. Most of the answer can be found on that coin. It keeps me off the streets so to speak, and definitely helps me sleep.
Yes sir. I dug a pond when I started
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:03 AM   #86
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I'll be running 1/2" copper lines along the floor joists. I plan to insulate the tubing. Question is how to fasten the tubing to the inside of the joists? I'm wondering if I would insulate the tubing, then get a suitable bracket to go over the insulation and tubing? Or standoff and bracket the copper tubing every few feet, then install the insulation?

Sorry if this is not clear, I can post some photos up if necessary.
Thanks
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:52 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by Kolunatic View Post
Sorry OP,just saw your posts.
If you have an inch and copper is getting Insulated,go for It. You'll be good.
There is a pop in screen for that installation. Look around Lowe's,or get creative. 2-1/2'' is kinda close to ground. Would snow pack be a problem? Run off in storms? We would dig out around stub outs like yours down here,but not boilers,t and p's. And line the hole with pavers,or stub into a valve box. But you need protected air flow,so don't put in valve box.
Here is a photo of the venting at the moment. I'll get some 45 degree elbows with a screen of sorts on them soon.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:56 PM   #88
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Photo one shows using wood blocks to stand off the pipe to allow for the thickness of the insulation. Second photo shows how I might? be able to attach the pipe and insulation together with a clamp. I'll be using copper, the cpvc pipe/clamp is just for clarification.

The thought is......
Adding wood blocks as standoffs/brackets would create areas where the pipe wouldn't be insulated very well, if at all...

Make any sense?
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:06 PM   #89
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Photo one shows using wood blocks to stand off the pipe to allow for the thickness of the insulation. Second photo shows how I might? be able to attach the pipe and insulation together with a clamp. I'll be using copper, the cpvc pipe/clamp is just for clarification.

The thought is......
Adding wood blocks as standoffs/brackets would create areas where the pipe wouldn't be insulated very well, if at all...

Make any sense?
I'd insulate as much as possible,and use larger 2 hole straps . You can use excess insulation and cram it in the holes of joists.
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:26 PM   #90
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I'd insulate as much as possible,and use larger 2 hole straps . You can use excess insulation and cram it in the holes of joists.
I'm re thinking my strategy, the photo shows the hot and cold line running to the kitchen. Would it be better to run the pipes more towards the middle of the bay, or attach them to the side of the floor joists? I'm thinking if they are close to the joist they will be hard to get to for repair etc?
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:41 AM   #91
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We used to run them down the middle. There was always enough scrap lumber to cut blocking and strap pipes.
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:07 AM   #92
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We used to run them down the middle. There was always enough scrap lumber to cut blocking and strap pipes.
That makes more sense. Is there a preferred orientation for the shut off valve handles up in the joists? Facing down, to the side etc?
Thanks
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:39 PM   #93
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Just install so you're able to get to handles. On side would be good.
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:08 PM   #94
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Just install so you're able to get to handles. On side would be good.
Got it, thanks. I've had a better time soldering the valves using a small brazing setup I have (propane and oxygen). It allows me to get the joint up to temperature much quicker than propane alone. I'm making good progress, I'll post up some photos when I have the chance.

Would using compressed air be a preferred method for testing for leaks? I have an air compressor with regulator and a few spare gauges. 30 psi would probably do it? Usually I just use the house water/pressure to test, but that may be making things tougher then need be.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:48 AM   #95
dont tread on me!
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Air is used all the time for testing.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:13 PM   #96
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Okay, I'm beginning to understand. Sweating copper is a lot of work. I wouldn't change it if I could, but I'm glad it is a small house with minimum branches.

The eventual hot and cold branches to the kitchen will tap off the photos showing the 1/2" Nibco valves. Now I'm working back towards the water heater and eventually the main. I've put water pressure on the system I have built so far (24 hours), the shut off valves and the washing machine hookups. No drips so far. Will probably switched to compressed air from here on out for testing.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:49 PM   #97
dont tread on me!
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Just don't run the water lines to where they'll screw you when you replace the drain and vent system.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:11 PM   #98
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Just don't run the water lines to where they'll screw you when you replace the drain and vent system.
Good point, I may have to re work the washer hook ups when I deal with the drain/vent. I'll keep it in mind as I move forward. We just don't know what we are doing in general. Ideally we would like to put a full bath in the basement this summer, then re do and relocate the upstairs bathroom, drains and vent etc.
Not sure I'll live that long Not having a firm plan/design is turning out to be more of a mistake than I realized.....
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:49 PM   #99
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I'm no plumber

Learned a few things recently. First is that unions can be a real hassle, and should be avoided at all costs......They tend to leak it seems. After searching the internet, I found that its best to buy expensive american made unions, preferably out of brass that are machined. Makes sense, not sure where the ones I got from Lowe's were made, but I can guess....I'll need to make friends with my local plumbing supply house.

Next up, a big sadness. I cut the copper pipe exiting the mixing valve to short. In stead of splicing in a longer piece via a repair coupling like I should have, I reheated the valve and re-soldered in a new piece. Now the valve leaks from the stem, so it looks like I'll be getting that repair coupling and a new valve. Lesson learned. Other than that, it is looking good.
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:45 PM   #100
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It does look good. I've used sweat unions that are foreign and threaded ones that will hold up if installed with tape and thread sealant , with no prob.
Why ya have to replace valve? Can it be rebuilt?
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