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Old 02-17-2013, 02:24 PM   #101
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It does look good. I've used sweat unions that are foreign and threaded ones that will hold up if installed with tape and thread sealant , with no prob.
Why ya have to replace valve? Can it be rebuilt?
Not sure if it can be re built, looked on-line and on Nibco's web site to no avail.
I will disassemble the leaking one, and if possible toss new parts in it. Question though, if it's just the seal around the lever leaking, can that be replaced without opening the valve body? If not I'll have to cut the copper so I can un-screw the valve body.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:49 PM   #102
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Try graphite packing and Teflon tape.
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:41 PM   #103
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Try graphite packing and Teflon tape.
I rarely fail to amaze myself. For all the times I've taken the handles off during soldering, I never noticed the nut on the back side. The inner nut was very lose, I could easily turn it with my fingers. Lightly cinched it up and the leaking has stopped, at least for now!
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:13 AM   #104
dont tread on me!
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I rarely fail to amaze myself. For all the times I've taken the handles off during soldering, I never noticed the nut on the back side. The inner nut was very lose, I could easily turn it with my fingers. Lightly cinched it up and the leaking has stopped, at least for now!
Ta Da!
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:47 AM   #105
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Ta Da!
For sure, I'm so glad not to have to replace that valve!
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:29 PM   #106
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Attached is a photo of the bathroom branch (hot and cold). I was planning on running the hot line down at a 45 degree angle to get around the cold line etc. I realized there would be no way to drain this line completely. Wondering if there is anything wrong with that? If and when it might need repaired you may get a bit wet.
Thanks
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:40 PM   #107
dont tread on me!
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Looks damn good. Don't woerry. Aszbout draining,tfhats what a shop vac is good for.
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:44 PM   #108
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Progress

Made a lot of progress since the last update.

I've run a dedicated 15 amp circuit for the water heater. The electrical inspector added this circuit to the electrical permit I pulled a few years back, and will check it out next week for no cost, awesome.

I've added the tubing for the pressure and temperature relief valve, exhaust and inlet vent condensate drain lines. Currently I don't have a floor drain, or a floor at the moment....That is next, along with the radiant tubing. I've finished the copper tubing for the most part, all shut off valves for the branches etc. Once the plumbing inspector signs off on the water heater I'll start tying all my fixtures into the new line...I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things for now.
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:58 PM   #109
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That's good progress. My home project at the moment is hand digging a new water line a few hundred feet long.
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:58 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kolunatic View Post
That's good progress. My home project at the moment is hand digging a new water line a few hundred feet long.
Sounds fun, should post up some photos. I started up my water heater this evening, went on without a hitch! I've never been so pleased to make hot water....I'm an electronics engineer by day, so thought I would toss some temperature sensors onto the hot water line and mixed line to adjust the water heater thermostat and the mixing the valve. I'm looking for 130F for the hot, and 120F for the mixed (to fixtures etc). The 130F is the design temp for the radiant.
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:09 AM   #111
dont tread on me!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geode View Post
Sounds fun, should post up some photos. I started up my water heater this evening, went on without a hitch! I've never been so pleased to make hot water....I'm an electronics engineer by day, so thought I would toss some temperature sensors onto the hot water line and mixed line to adjust the water heater thermostat and the mixing the valve. I'm looking for 130F for the hot, and 120F for the mixed (to fixtures etc). The 130F is the design temp for the radiant.
:headba ng:
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:12 AM   #112
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Congrats. I got about 60' of water line done with tie in and ISO valve and backfilled before the rain came. It's a muddy mess now.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:47 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by Kolunatic View Post
Congrats. I got about 60' of water line done with tie in and ISO valve and backfilled before the rain came. It's a muddy mess now.
Passed my two inspections this morning! The plumbing inspector had one suggestion, that I branch off near the bottom of my washer hookups and install water hammer arrestors. He said I could make my own with an 8" piece of 3/4" copper capped on the end (oriented vertically). This will create an air pocket, smoothing things out?
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:14 PM   #114
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Passed my two inspections this morning! The plumbing inspector had one suggestion, that I branch off near the bottom of my washer hookups and install water hammer arrestors. He said I could make my own with an 8" piece of 3/4" copper capped on the end (oriented vertically). This will create an air pocket, smoothing things out?
That will work to eliminate water hammer but will eventually fill up with water and stop working. You can buy water hammer arresters which solder in or thread in. I recommend the threaded type because they can be replaced when they fail. Mineral deposits will eventually crud them up. I have a set on my washing machine and they stop the water hammer and make a huge difference. Anywhere you have a water solenoid valve, you will get water hammer. The quick closing of the water valve causes the hammer. This can lead to solenoid failure or even cause excessive stress son the water hoses themselves. The style for the washing machine actually have hose threads and they will attach directly to the washing machine and the hoses connect to them. This is ideal because the closer to the hammer source, the better they will work. Here's a link to the ones I use. http://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-66..._bxgy_hi_img_y
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:10 PM   #115
dont tread on me!
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Originally Posted by ToyotaTRD View Post
That will work to eliminate water hammer but will eventually fill up with water and stop working. You can buy water hammer arresters which solder in or thread in. I recommend the threaded type because they can be replaced when they fail. Mineral deposits will eventually crud them up. I have a set on my washing machine and they stop the water hammer and make a huge difference. Anywhere you have a water solenoid valve, you will get water hammer. The quick closing of the water valve causes the hammer. This can lead to solenoid failure or even cause excessive stress son the water hoses themselves. The style for the washing machine actually have hose threads and they will attach directly to the washing machine and the hoses connect to them. This is ideal because the closer to the hammer source, the better they will work. Here's a link to the ones I use. http://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-66..._bxgy_hi_img_y
This^^^
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:29 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToyotaTRD View Post
That will work to eliminate water hammer but will eventually fill up with water and stop working. You can buy water hammer arresters which solder in or thread in. I recommend the threaded type because they can be replaced when they fail. Mineral deposits will eventually crud them up. I have a set on my washing machine and they stop the water hammer and make a huge difference. Anywhere you have a water solenoid valve, you will get water hammer. The quick closing of the water valve causes the hammer. This can lead to solenoid failure or even cause excessive stress son the water hoses themselves. The style for the washing machine actually have hose threads and they will attach directly to the washing machine and the hoses connect to them. This is ideal because the closer to the hammer source, the better they will work. Here's a link to the ones I use. http://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-66..._bxgy_hi_img_y
Thanks a lot for the link and the explanation. I'll pick up a pair right quick!
I read that it is best to install it as close to the source as possible (solenoid). And go on to recommend attaching it directly to the washing machine for best results. I like that they are manufactured in the US, and their website contains a lot of technical/installation information. http://www.siouxchief.com/index.htm
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:20 PM   #117
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Thanks a lot for the link and the explanation. I'll pick up a pair right quick!
I read that it is best to install it as close to the source as possible (solenoid). And go on to recommend attaching it directly to the washing machine for best results. I like that they are manufactured in the US, and their website contains a lot of technical/installation information. http://www.siouxchief.com/index.htm
Yea, I'm glad they are US made. I have a ton of US made stuff. BTW, nice job with your install and I give you a lot of credit for using copper pipe and doing it as best as you can. You don't see that very often. I redid all my mechanicals in my house and used copper, black iron, unistrut for hanging, elctrical conduit and kept everything nice and tidy. I don't have a problem with pex tubing or tracpipe gas lines but it sure allows people to do work they shouldn't be anywhere near. My favorite saying about pex tubing is its ability to freeze several times and not burst. Should it be freezing though? If installed correctly, your water lines shouldn't freeze and if a product doesn't burst due to freezing it shouldn't be installed with a care free attitude either.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:47 AM   #118
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Originally Posted by ToyotaTRD View Post
Yea, I'm glad they are US made. I have a ton of US made stuff. BTW, nice job with your install and I give you a lot of credit for using copper pipe and doing it as best as you can. You don't see that very often. I redid all my mechanicals in my house and used copper, black iron, unistrut for hanging, elctrical conduit and kept everything nice and tidy. I don't have a problem with pex tubing or tracpipe gas lines but it sure allows people to do work they shouldn't be anywhere near. My favorite saying about pex tubing is its ability to freeze several times and not burst. Should it be freezing though? If installed correctly, your water lines shouldn't freeze and if a product doesn't burst due to freezing it shouldn't be installed with a care free attitude either.
Thanks, it's been an interesting Journey so far. It's been tough not to get down on myself for how long it is taking. An unforeseen benefit of creating this thread was that I can go back to the beginning and see how far we have come and all the work in between. I can't express my thanks enough to all of you that have helped me out along the way. I always try to to do the same for others when I can.
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:28 PM   #119
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Not a complete surprise

Setting up the mixing valve to temper down my 130F water is proving a challenge. The mixing valve works perfectly, But I seem to have one serious case of thermosiphoning. When i'm drawing hot water from the heater, the cold inlet pipe which enters at the bottom of the water heater is nice and cold as should be (around 55F). When the demand for hot water ends, the cold inlet pipe temperature rises to over 100F in two or three minutes

I have a heat trap on the hot side to the mixing valve, and I could change the piping of the cold supply to the mixing valve so it was originating near the bottom of the water heater. Looks like I might need a check valve on the cold line heading for the mixing valve (swing or spring).

This fellows issues sounds very similar. http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thr...hermosiphoning

Thanks
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:30 PM   #120
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I'd put a check valve in. I always try and install them with mixing valves and circ pumps.
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