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HELP! I need a straight answer about building a wall.

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Old 02-22-2013, 04:08 PM   #1
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HELP! I need a straight answer about building a wall.

Normally I can figure out what to do when I am attempting some new DIY project around the house, but this time I stumped. If you name it I've done it and used it as an excuse to build-up my tool collection.

The boss and I just bought a new house and on the first floor there is a "room" that we aren't using. With the arrival of our second kid this christmas I need to move the man cave so he can have his own room in a month or so.

Here's the problem. I need to build a single wall to close off the front "room" and create a den/man cave. The new wall will be on the slab and cross the joists like a load bearing wall would. I am finding conflicting info about how to build the wall. Do I need a pressure treated 2x4 footer? Do I need to double up the header and footer like one normally would for a load bearing wall, even though the house is built in such a way that there is no need for the new wall to bear a load? I have tried looking up my local building codes, but so far that has not rendered anything helpful.

One last question, what is the best option for attaching the wall to the concrete slab? The house was built six years ago and besides being cool to the touch most of the year, it never feels or smells damp.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:12 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by comiesutra View Post
Normally I can figure out what to do when I am attempting some new DIY project around the house, but this time I stumped. If you name it I've done it and used it as an excuse to build-up my tool collection.

The boss and I just bought a new house and on the first floor there is a "room" that we aren't using. With the arrival of our second kid this christmas I need to move the man cave so he can have his own room in a month or so.

Here's the problem. I need to build a single wall to close off the front "room" and create a den/man cave. The new wall will be on the slab and cross the joists like a load bearing wall would. I am finding conflicting info about how to build the wall. Do I need a pressure treated 2x4 footer? Do I need to double up the header and footer like one normally would for a load bearing wall, even though the house is built in such a way that there is no need for the new wall to bear a load? I have tried looking up my local building codes, but so far that has not rendered anything helpful.

One last question, what is the best option for attaching the wall to the concrete slab? The house was built six years ago and besides being cool to the touch most of the year, it never feels or smells damp.
from what I've experienced, you always want to use pressure treated wood anytime you attach directly to the concrete slab. but that may only be for walls where one side is exterior facing. as for putting a double header, I can't think of any reason NOT to do it...why not have extra wood supporting.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:18 PM   #3
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Yes, use a pressure-treated bottom plate, attach it with Tapcons (Blue screws made specifically for concrete. You'll need a rotary hammer or hammer drill with the proper sized masonry bit. I would go ahead and double the top plate for trim and sheetrock reasons, even if it's not load-bearing.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:22 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Shauncho View Post
from what I've experienced, you always want to use pressure treated wood anytime you attach directly to the concrete slab. but that may only be for walls where one side is exterior facing. as for putting a double header, I can't think of any reason NOT to do it...why not have extra wood supporting.
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Originally Posted by wareagle1 View Post
Yes, use a pressure-treated bottom plate, attach it with Tapcons (Blue screws made specifically for concrete. You'll need a rotary hammer or hammer drill with the proper sized masonry bit. I would go ahead and double the top plate for trim and sheetrock reasons, even if it's not load-bearing.
Thanks guys for the input. I know what I'm starting this weekend.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:23 PM   #5
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Depending on your area you should need pressure treat for an interior wall on concrete slab. I found the best way to attach wall would be to use liquid nails heavy duty adhesive and tack wall down using concrete nails. You don't need a double header but if your ceiling height is odd over 8' or over 10' then you will have to buy longer 2x4 and this could equal more money if you have 8' walls a 92 5/8 stud with footer and double top is perfect
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:24 PM   #6
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Good lock OP. Hope it goes well. Are you hanging rock and all?
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:27 PM   #7
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Depending on your area you shouldn't need pressure treat for an interior wall. I found the best way to attach wall would be to use liquid nails heavy duty adhesive and tack wall down using concrete nails. You don't need a double header but if your ceiling height is odd over 8' or over 10' then you will have to buy longer 2x4 and this could equal more money if you have 8' walls a 92 5/8 stud with footer and double top is perfect
So that's what those 92.625 2X4 are for. Nope the walls are 8' so it should be a simple build. The only extra thing I need to do is trim the drywall on the ceiling so I can make sure to attach the wall securely.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:29 PM   #8
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Good lock OP. Hope it goes well. Are you hanging rock and all?
Probably will. I have a few good buddies I can bribe with pizza and beer when I need help.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:29 PM   #9
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PT bottom plate, yes good to have especially if you ever get water in the basement. Tapcons to secure the bottom plate or rent/borrow a ramset, dont bother with concrete nails unless the crete is green. And no you shouldnt need headers but it is always a good practice to center your studs below the joists.

Edit what you call headers i call top plates, headers mean something else to me, single top plate is fine.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:34 PM   #10
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PT on bottom plate, use a ramset, no need for double plate at top.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:34 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by evanmb31 View Post
PT bottom plate, yes good to have especially if you ever get water in the basement. Tapcons to secure the bottom plate or rent/borrow a ramset, dont bother with concrete nails unless the crete is green. And no you shouldnt need headers but it is always a good practice to center your studs below the joists.
x2. PT bottom plate and if there's no load bearing wall there now, don't make one (no need to build up a header). Make the studs snug, you don't want them holding up the joists and unweighting or creating uplift on the exterior walls where the joists currently rest. The concrete slab isn't meant to carry the load either.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:39 PM   #12
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Use 1 footer in either pressure treated or redwood. Put a thin flexible foam sheet under the footer to provide a moisture barrier between the cement and wood. On top you can use 1 header if its not a bearing wall. Framing nails have a higher shear strength than screws. Use them instead. To attach the footer to the cement rent or buy a nail shooting gun. It shoots tungsten nails through the footer and into the cement using .22 blanks.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:41 PM   #13
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe ....
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Forget the PT bottom plate and put sill gasket under the bottom plate unless you want arsenic in your house for some reason , the top plate doesn't need to be doubled if the joists are directly above the studs
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ-T View Post
Forget the PT bottom plate and put sill gasket under the bottom plate unless you want arsenic in your house for some reason , the top plate doesn't need to be doubled if the joists are directly above the studs
^^ because arsenic, people...
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:50 PM   #15
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe ....
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Originally Posted by Shauncho View Post
^^ because arsenic, people...
Not sure if you are trying to be funny but correct , also a PT plate does nothing to stop the transfer of moisture from the concrete like a sill gasket does , and the new ACQ formula eats fasteners but what do I know
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ-T View Post
Forget the PT bottom plate and put sill gasket under the bottom plate unless you want arsenic in your house for some reason , the top plate doesn't need to be doubled if the joists are directly above the studs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shauncho View Post
^^ because arsenic, people...

Arsenic has been out of wood since 2004 in the US.



Why has no one mentioned the #1 key to building an interior wall? all the studs need to be crowned the same direction. tards who built my house 45 years ago did not know this...derp

sill plate shouldn't even touch the ground. should free float while pinned
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:55 PM   #17
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:58 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by OZ-T View Post
Not sure if you are trying to be funny but correct , also a PT plate does nothing to stop the transfer of moisture from the concrete like a sill gasket does , and the new ACQ formula eats fasteners but what do I know
It was one of those things that comes across better in person...you are correct about the arsenic. As for sill gaskets I have no experience.

But for those looking for actual information here, as a general rule of thumb, based on what I've read from OZ about building codes and methods, he's pretty much always spot on.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shauncho View Post
It was one of those things that comes across better in person...you are correct about the arsenic. As for sill gaskets I have no experience.

But for those looking for actual information here, as a general rule of thumb, based on what I've read from OZ about building codes and methods, he's pretty much always spot on.

meh.... Canadian building code is poop
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:03 PM   #20
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe ....
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sill plate shouldn't even touch the ground. should free float while pinned
Gay
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