Bathroom Project of Doom

I think we have one of those around here. I might at least give them a call and get a price. To bad this had to happen with the holidays fast approaching and a new nephew on the way...

 

Well replacement was the best option in the long run anyway

 

Very true. I will admit, my initial postings were in a bit of a panic mode. I've settled down a little since then as have things around home. They aren't much better, but we are dealing and gradual purchases are a little easier to work into the budget than a large upfront cost that about equals your checking account...

 

Cutting the edge in the drywall around the tub was mildly therapeutic. Didn't even really care that I had to do it with hand tools, heh...



Got a nice view of the back of the other tub. Some random peices of insulation were laying back there.



I noticed there is a very slight leak from the other shower where the grab handle was installed. Now might be a good time to take care of that...

That's about where I am in progress. I found a tub I liked at Menards, and I may FINALLY take them up on the 90 days no interest if I start a Menards card...

 

Well, I guess you could say I've been cutting into it a little bit more...



A friend of mine who is retired and does this kind of stuff for "fun" these days, came over and checked out my work and made sure I was heading the right direction. He informed me that there should have been a stud on this wall about where the linoleum starts. The tub was screwed into insulation, so it wasn't very secure. I think along with fixing the minor leak on the other tub while I have it open, I am going to address this issue as well. Do I have to put a stud in there all the way from floor to ceiling?



So long, farewell, good riddance...

 

Put in a stud on the flat , floor to ceiling at the location of where the shower stall / drywall transition is , nail a stud on edge to it for strength , essentially making an " L "

 

I think I have a few leftover from the Flooring project. Am I kind of in a spot where I might as well just take the drywall out up to the ceiling?

 

Depends on what kind of shower stall you are installing

 

Not that any of this will help. I was a journeyman tile setter for 16 years. Had a commercial/residential licence in Ca, Co and Oregon for many of those years. It would be less expensive to call someone in with the knowledge to just tear it all out (at this point, whatever you may have missed), frame it back, put in a pan, wrap the walls with hardi / wonderboard / float (whatever you can afford), pour a pan and then tile it all. Seriously, honestly. This is what i do/did for many years. Send me a PM if you have any questions i can help answer from a "Setters" point of view and i will gladly call you.

 

Looks like you are making good progress on your project.

Are you going to do the installation yourself?

You may already be aware, but I wanted to point out that you are going to need a 2 or 3 piece unit to go back into place. A 1 piece unit can only go into the room when it's new construction. I would also recommend a new faucet and possibly a new overflow when re-installed. Your neighbor is correct - the flange around the new tub will need to be secured. Install a stud - can use the wide side facing in - cut it a hair long and tap it into place and then toenail it (or screw) it in. Pre-drill the holes on the nailing flange - you can use a wide head nail (roofing nail) or screw. Do NOT use a tapered screw like a drywall screw as this will crack the fiberglass.

You will need to cut the holes for the plumbing - measure multiple times before cutting.

I look forward to seeing your progress!

- A

 

I've got some minor cosmetic issues where the drywall meets ceiling, so I'm thinking this may be the time to fix it. I may cross that road when I come to it, after the tub is installed.

We aren't planning on doing tile. I'm looking at everything going back in the way it comes out. My friend explianed to me that the supports that failed in the original were part of the tub, and Rebath was blowing smoke up my ass when they told me I was right in thinking the installers didn't put it in right. It was just a cheap unit and after 20 years of fat people, wore out. As of now I have it down to the subfloors and studs, hopefully there isn't much left I missed.

The more i measured today the more it made sense that a one-piece unit is out of the question. I found a few three piece units at Menards I liked, although I've gotten a few recommendations about the Sterling brand from Lowe's, so I am going to check out both before I buy, see what the warranties are, and all that good stuff. When I took all the old fixtures off, I realized how roached they are and I am going to replace that as well. I'll probably be asking you guys a few more questions when it comes time to stud install. I think I understand what you all are saying, but visualizing it is a little hazy. I have issues with that.

Once we get the tub, my friend knows a retired plumber who still works part time because he too, enjoys what he does. I think I am going to let him do the measuring and cutting for the plumbing. I know I'll be paying for the labor on it, but he's still bonded and insured, so if he screws up, he replaces it. (his words, not mine) I'll probably be the one who secures it to the wall. I was looking at roofing nails, as those were what I pulled out and they were a bitch to get out. I will make sure to pre-drill though, I could see that ending badly. They are still having me do the majority of the heavy lifting, vanity removal, cleanup, and probably the drywall. So it's going to be an interesting combination of efforts.

I'll keep everyone updated!

 

http://www.menards.com/main/bath/ba...rd-bath-right-hand-drain/p-2005644-c-5871.htm

Hello beautiful...

 

I know you were saying money is a big constraint right now. Do you have a restore nearby? I picked up a new never installed jacuzzi tub for my remodel for less than 200.00. Came with the pumps and what not. A lot of their stuff comes from new construction that owners change their mind or project doesn't get completed for whatever reason. If not I have worked around lowes a lot. Especially with a family member that works for corporate. A lot of time they will have stuff in the back that they need to sell because someone ordered it and then changed there mind or never came and got it. For example. I got all the flooring in my house for 0.79 a ft original when the po ordered it was 3.76 a ft. Just have to ask.

 

I actually do have a Restore not far away. Never even thought about checking there...This may require further investigation.

 

Early Christmas gift...

 

My first attempt at removing the vanity was halted when I tried to turn the hot water off and the valve wouldn't close all the way. Now that I've messed with it, it drips. Is replacing one of these things as straightforward as it looks?

 

Kinda.

Copper pipe, compression fitting.... you'll need to loosen the rear nut while holding the valve. If you're lucky, you can slip the collar off of the pipe. If not, you'll need to cut the pipe right behind the collar to allow a new one to slip on... the new valve will be 1/2" or so closer to the wall.

A few jobs like this and you learn that it is a very good idea to cycle every water valve on the property a couple of times a year... including the gate valve at the service entrance.
My gate valve needs to be replaced, it does not fully close. Any time I need to work on a fixture that doesn't have its own shutoff (like the shower, or to change a valve), I have to open the hose bib outside to allow what leaks past the gate valve to drain.

 

Sounds doable. I hope the shutoff for the house works now.

 

Working upstairs is not too bad... like I said, open the hose bib and a couple of faucets downstairs to drain the pipes.
Might want to shut off the water heater to keep it from siphoning out as well.

If you're on the 1st floor, that valve may be below your hose bib (toilet will be, faucet maybe)...
You'll still want to open the hose bib and kitchen faucet to drain the pipes, but you're still going to have a fair amount of water come out when you pull that valve. Have a couple of pails and a helper handy and pack a buttload of bath towels around the area.

 

I am going to attempt to get parts tomorrow. Since it is leaking up towards the front of that shut off valve, do you think I would be okay to re-use the same compression fitting? Or would it be best to just replace it all?