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Old 12-03-2013, 10:18 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by T Fades View Post
Would you recommend putting a treating the bench with a protectant of some sort?

Should I only treat the frame, leaving the plywood top and shelf un-treated? I have heard if you only treat one side of plywood, it will warp.
Yes. I seem to bump over a beer every other time I work on the bench and hate seeing the wood soak it up knowing it's not enjoying my cold filtered adult beverage as much as I would have. Do just the top and shelf. I wouldn't bother with the legs, etc
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Old 12-03-2013, 11:10 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC10TRDSPORT View Post
Yes. I seem to bump over a beer every other time I work on the bench and hate seeing the wood soak it up knowing it's not enjoying my cold filtered adult beverage as much as I would have. Do just the top and shelf. I wouldn't bother with the legs, etc
Thx. Have you heard of plywood warping if only 1 side is treated?

Another option for me is to get a 1/4" hardwood plywood to protect the 3/4" sheet.
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Old 12-03-2013, 11:15 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T Fades View Post
Thx. Have you heard of plywood warping if only 1 side is treated?

Another option for me is to get a 1/4" hardwood plywood to protect the 3/4" sheet.
I'd do the latter. Sacrificial work surface with countersunk screws that is easy to replace. When you cut the first one, cut a second one to size so it is ready to go. Of course, I never had to replace my old one for 9 years, drawings, cuts, drill holes, paint, oil, solvent, beer sweat, and all. The slick surface is nice and easy to brush off and clean, too.
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Old 12-06-2013, 08:33 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T Fades View Post
Would you recommend putting a treating the bench with a protectant of some sort?

Should I only treat the frame, leaving the plywood top and shelf un-treated? I have heard if you only treat one side of plywood, it will warp.
...for a workbench i'd just apply a boiled linseed oil finish, or a danish oil finish... both are very easy to apply, and easy for any "touch ups" later on down the road... i'd apply the oil (probably two coats, w/ about an hour dry time in between coats) to the whole thing, all surfaces, both the solid wood and plywood components... ...i would not use any wood stains or polyuerethane finishes because, ...it just isn't that feasible for a workbench, ...which will take wear anyway... also, you probably don't want your bench top to have a slick finish because that would diminish it's workholding ability...
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Old 12-06-2013, 09:48 AM   #65
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Workbench Finish

I agree with the Boiled Linseed Oil, Danish or Tung Oil. You will have to refinish occasionally.

One might consider a sacrificial top during the build because over time you will scar up your top. Performing mechanical repair on a Woodworking Bench is a sure way to destroy your bench top. I use either rubber mats, cardboard or a removable 1/4" ss top if I have to do anything other than woodworking on them.

Mobility is another important feature of any workbench design. All my workbenches (5) can be moved easily. Three of which have large urethane casters making movement very smooth and easy.

Think about clamping features you need. What type of vise(s) you will install. I like the pattern makers vises.

Good Luck on your Bench Build.
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:34 AM   #66
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Plain BLO is fine for a finish, as stated. Plywood tops can be left as-is unless covered with some other more purposeful surface (carpet, sheet metal, etc.)

I have to confess, I don't see the utility or desirability of a mobile bench, but I'll take your word for it. Banging, cutting threads, various sawing and chiselling duties, chopping mortises, not to mention planing boards, I can't see a reason for a mobile bench. I guess if your space is that limited, but then most people over-estimate the actual size of a bench top that they need anyway.

For planing, it can't be too long or too heavy. Other than that, all you really need is a place to hold your vices and a general work area. If you're making furniture, you'll be better served with an assembly table or a clean area of floor than a great wide bench where you're trying to both cut and plane parts as well as assemble them.

I still say a clean, open floor and a solid kitchen chair makes a decent bench and will carry you through quite a few projects.
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