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7' x 18' utility trailer build.

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by koditten, Jan 16, 2014.

  1. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:03 PM
    #21
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    Time to start on the gates. This tailer has 2. As you can see I measure diagonally. I'm only doing this to be close. As soon as I have it into a "rough" rectangle I put it on the bench. My "bench is the back of the trailer. Makes a nice work hight. I've only solidly tack welded it at this point.

    Because the gate frame wasn't quite true, I use a long bar clamp to bring it into shape. I would rather do this on the "table", thats why I only get it roughly square on the floor.

    This trailer gate will have to hold the weight of a compact tractor. I don't know what they weigh, so I used 1/8" wall 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" tube. better to be safe than sorry. As much as I enjoy building the trailers, I don't want to ever work on them again.

    I try to leave a bit of the joints unwelded, again, a place for the water to drain out.

    The last pic is just showing the mesh. I ordered it a bit long. Its easy to cut down to size with the plasma cutter. I did this for years using thin wheels on the grinder. I do love using the Pcuter.

    The side gate is going to be used to load quads. I used 14 gauge tube for that. The side gate is close to the same dimensions, but at least 30 lbs. lighter.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:04 PM
    #22
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    Here is a pic of the bar clamp being used to true up the gate frame.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG]
     
  3. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:04 PM
    #23
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    I found a closeup of the gap I leave to allow for water drainage.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG]
     
  4. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:05 PM
    #24
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    When the ex. steel is installed, care must be taken to ensure that the orientation is proper. In the pic showing my hand, I'm feeling to check to make sure the higher friction direction is facing up the ex steel. If the mesh is backwards, lawnmowers may have trouble gaining traction.

    The second pic shows another use for plyers. Just pinching down the metal so I can get a good tack.

    The third pic is of the hinges I make. Kinda crude, but they are plenty strong. I just evenly space them out olong the width of the trailer gate. No tape measure involved.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:05 PM
    #25
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    The fist pic could have been included in the previous post. The pic shows them tacked, but you can weld them solid.

    The second pic is how I align the gate to the trailer frame. In the 2nd pic you can see the gap between the trailer and the gate. I just eyeball it. If the gap is the same on both sides you are fine to start welding the hinges. Note I did the same on adjusting the gate left and right.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  6. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:05 PM
    #26
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    Pretty crappy pic of the gate in the raised position. You can see the use of a c-clamp to keep the gate closed. I'll be showing latches in a bit.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG]
     
  7. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:06 PM
    #27
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Here is the latches. I just use some 1 1/2" band iron. I will be drilling holes for the pins a bit later. I used 3/8" pins because thats what I had on hand. Use what you like.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  8. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:06 PM
    #28
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    I just wanted to quicklly show the welding dot. Use this to mark the location of the cross member. I will be able to quickly mark the lumber when it is time to screw down the deck boards.

    The last pics are going to be my "steps". These triangular pieces will be welded in front and rear of the fenders. It give a person a place to step if they want to climb into the bed with out lowering the ramps.

    If anyone guessed, the metal is left over from the channel that became the fenders. I usually order the channel a couple feet longer than I need. I find countless uses for this thinner iron.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  9. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:07 PM
    #29
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    Here is some pics of the "steps" installed as well as in use. I figured it was time to toss back a beer as well.

    Hard to believe this is only me second beer building this trailer, isn't it?[​IMG]

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:07 PM
    #30
    J11Tac

    J11Tac Well-Known Member

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    None of the photos are working. Also the ones that do work are tiny.
     
  11. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:07 PM
    #31
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    This first pic is of a brace I add to the tongue jack. If you notice, my weld looks like shit. I don't care who you are, weldiong thru paint is never gonna turn out. This is just a scrap piece of angle steel welded to the tongue angles.

    The last pics are of the spare tire bracket. I just used a scrap piece of 3/16" plate steel. Drill a couple of holes and weld the back of the bolts so they can't spin. Attach to a 5" long piece of 2 x 3" tube. Nothing fancy here.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  12. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:08 PM
    #32
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Here is the safety chains welded to the tongue. I don't know what thickness they are, but they are pretty stout. It's cheaper to buy the hooks and chain seperate, so that what I do.

    The next is some extra bracing I made for the tongue/frame. Because this trailer will have 5/4" lumber, the tongues do not contact the cross members. I bridged this gap with some scrap pieces of angle. This was the leftover cross member steel I had to cut down. I try not to waste anything.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:08 PM
    #33
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    I had to make a brace to mount my junction box.

    I use romex clamps to keep the wires secure. I may not look pretty, but so far it is the best I've found. I like to keep things accessable. We live in Michigan, so the wireing takes a beating. Going this way makis it easy for the next person to wire the trailer if it ever comes to that.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  14. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:08 PM
    #34
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I like to solder all my connection. I add a coat of plain old roofing tar then wire nut the connections. I've found nothing better to combat the crap that Mother Nature can dish out here in Michigan. I'm sure there are better options, but I know nothing can come in close to the cheap price I have involved.

    The can in the picture hs been in use for over 10 years. It goes a long ways.
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:09 PM
    #35
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is a couple of pics from last night. We just got done coating it. I used Rustolium Truck Bed coating to paint the entire trailer. First time for me, but I am very impressed with the stuff. I did some test scratches this morning and could not scratch this stuff. It is an epoxy after all.

    The only drawback was the smell. Pretty bad chemical smell. Even with resperators we had to pen the doors. It got kind of chilly after a bit, but at least the smell wasn't too bad with the overhead doors open.

    This is my last pic post. I plan on decking the thing next Tuesday. I'll have some final pics on Wednesday night.

    Thanks for following along.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  16. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:09 PM
    #36
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lets try this again. Hopefully I got my pics in order.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  17. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:10 PM
    #37
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    This is the final product. I'll try to take some daylight pictures this weekend. I won't be home during daylight hours 'til this weekend.

    Thanks for watching along.

    KO
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  18. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:11 PM
    #38
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I love helping people build their own trailer as much as I love building them myself. Please don't be afraid to ask me any questions or make suggestions.

    Later

    KO
     
  19. Jan 16, 2014 at 2:49 PM
    #39
    koditten

    koditten [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Are the pics all working now? I made a change as I was going thru the postings.
     
  20. Jan 16, 2014 at 7:42 PM
    #40
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    From post 12 on none of the pics are working. A bunch of the pics that work are small and hard to see. A few come out full size.
     

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