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Replacement Windows

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by kris77, Mar 17, 2014.

  1. Mar 17, 2014 at 9:29 AM
    #1
    kris77

    kris77 [OP] Born in the Backwoods

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    I'm replacing old wooden windows.

    The current windows have brick mold built into the frame of the window and they used the brick mold as a sort of nail flange. So, when i take the window out, i have cedar siding stopping about 2" short of the actual rough opening.

    I'm thinking it would best to get a new install window with a nail flange and just install it like normal, then add brick mold over the nail flange to cover it.

    Would this be best? Or would it be better to get a replacement window and install it that way?

    Thanks

    My link to the pic isn't working correctly.

    Here is the link....

    I replaced one window with this white one just to see what white would look like. So pay no attention to the install. Its just sitting in there for looks. I just want to show the space between the rough opening and the siding and get some ideas what would be best to use there.

    The second pic is what the brick mold looked like around the old window. I placed it up to this new one to show how it covered the gap.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/84416460@N05/13221860423/

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/84416460@N05/13221861393/
     
  2. Mar 17, 2014 at 1:38 PM
    #2
    island taco

    island taco Well-Known Member

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    Vince
    victoria, canada
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    I live on the West Coast of Canada so I don't know what your weather is like (wet, dry, snow) but you're better to get the nailing flange window. Install Blue Skin over the flange, after you nail the window in place, first vertical and then the top only across the two vert pieces. Blue Skin is a sealer tape in various widths and will seal around a nail or screw. Also a "L" shaped drip flashing slid behind the siding above the window to direct any water away. You risk water leakage with the replacement window because of the channels in your siding. I hope this helps. you can Google Blue Skin or find a simular product local. And YouTube has lots of vids to help you. As for outside trim you can use the brick molding or a flat 1x3 or 5. If you use the brick mold seal the edge between it and were it meets the siding really well.
     
  3. Mar 18, 2014 at 11:24 AM
    #3
    kris77

    kris77 [OP] Born in the Backwoods

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    So my main question is this.

    I need to completely rip out the old windows. Down to the studs. Some of the wood on the outside is damaged pretty bad. So I'm going to get new construction windows and try and replace the whole thing. I think i'm going to have to trim my rough opening with 1" material just so i can have a little more surface area on the outside to nail to.

    My real question is about the trim on the outside. Once i put in the 1" boards, i'm going to wrap them with tyvex and seal all the corners. Then install my window, nailing through the nail fin of course. Then seal that seam with flex wrap or something similar. Once I do that, the window should be completely sealed and I can then just add my Brick Mold over top of the nail fin right? Butt it up against my original cedar siding and let it overlap the nail fin.

    Does that make sense?
     
  4. Mar 18, 2014 at 3:53 PM
    #4
    island taco

    island taco Well-Known Member

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    victoria, canada
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    White '23 LBDC TRDSport
    Kicker speakers, Key amp, Spiker hood struts, tonnueo cover, Cooper AT3 4s, Method Double Standard Bronze
    Yes the brick mold can be put back over the nailing fin but the brick mold will now have to be wider because you made the rough opening and thus the window smaller, with the 1" boards and will be to narrow to butt up to the window and the siding. One option is to remove the nailing fins and screw through the frame on the inside into the rough opening framing. Just score the fin as close to the main window frame as possible about 4/5 times and bend it back and forth till it snaps off. Any utility knife will work. Check the opening for squareness, corner to corner and plumb with a level. Then measure the rough opening and subtract 1/4" off width and heigth for a snug fit. Another option is to cut back the siding to allow the nail fin to sit on the framing/sheathing and you won't have to add 1" boards to inside of the rough opening. You will need a wider trim such as a 1x3 or 5 or 2x4 to butt up to your siding and the window. Maybe in rough cedar? Flex wrap, Blue Skin, over the nailing fin and the sheathing and it will be sealed. Hope this helped, Vince PS I've worked in the window business for 30 years as a installer and the manufacturing of.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2014
  5. Mar 28, 2014 at 5:40 AM
    #5
    kris77

    kris77 [OP] Born in the Backwoods

    Joined:
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    1,192
    Gender:
    Male
    West Virginia
    Vehicle:
    08 DC TRD Sport Speedway Blue
    In channel Vent Visors, AVS Bug Shield, Hankook Dynapro RF10 265/70/17
    So, I decided on new construction windows with a 1" board on the bottom of my rough opening.

    Now im having trouble trying to figure out how to install a sill and nose on the outside of the windows and make the brick mold meet up with it.

    I'm new to all this PVC trim and am not quite sure how to put it all together. This is what i was told i needed.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     

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