Sliders!

Anyone got any specs and dimensions for 2nd gen DCSB sliders!? Looking to weld up my own this summer and seeing if I can base mine off of anyones?

 

Probably gonna need to be bout 80" long. Just get out a tape measure and a piece of paper and get a design down. Really not that hard. Pretty basic and simple. If you have never fabbed anything before then I'd recommend square/rectangle tube just for ease of fab work and joint alignment.

 

I just got done fabbing my own sliders. I used 4- 10ft sections of 1" galvanized water pipe ($20 ea) a MIG and a pipe bender. they turned out great. What I did was find a style I liked (ALL-Pro) and fabricated brackets (which was the most difficult part). once you get the brackets built and installed (takes a lot of walking back and forth to the welder/grinder). I measured my base bar length. (i eyeballed it and liked it at 83") welded it up. then i built the step bar and i wanted the 'flare-out' so i did some trial and error bends on a piece of the scrap pipe. matched both sides. welded then. painted them installed them... loved'em!!

 

oh yeah with materials and consumables and buying lunch for my buddy helping me out they coat ~$150

 

AWESOME MAN! Just the response I was looking for!! Post some pics??

 

first picture is the base bar, welded to the three body mounts i built utilizing the OE step bar mount holes. (I decided to go there instead of the frame because I couldnt bring myself to weld/drill anything to my brand new truck frame)

Second picture is the outer frame of the bar. (trial and error!)

Third Picture is the almost completed rock slides complete with support gussets

Fourth picture is self explanatory, i rattle canned them with spray truck bed liner

 

LOOKS good, but I hope you don't plan to actually use those!
pretty sure those mounts would crumble under any load and that pipe would not take very much abuse other than parking lot door dings..

OP, DCSB are usually 80" along with ECSB both 1st and 2nd gen but length/design is totally upto you.

Id recommend 1.5" .120 wall tubing (not pipe) at minimum and 3/16 minimum mounting plates and gussets! Most use 1.75" .120 wall tubing for the outer rails and hybrids are generally 2x2 square .120 wall tubing..

Depending on where you shop at for your materials and what quality of material you use it will run you around $150-$250

There are lots of pics and ideas floating around, You can follow the link in my sig as well and get some ideas if need be!

Good luck and post lots of pics!

If you go the hybrid route youll use approximately 18.2' of square tubing and 15.9' of round tubing... Then whatever size you decide to make your frame mounting plates and gussets... so 1 stick of each material should be good or if you go all round tubing then 2 round sticks would be plenty... Those measurements are guestimates and do not include a kickout

 

Looks good

Never jack on them or use them as sliders the OEM mounting points will mangle the bottom of the cab

 

That's a good looking product, but I am with everyone else, those are going to crumble under any load.

 

You realize that welding galvanized steel releases toxic gasses?

 

this was my next WTF...

here comes lung cancer

 

More like death, shit is deadly toxic in gaseous form.

 

#1 I failed to mention that I used 1/4" steel plate with gussets to mount it...
#2 Galvanized pipe is extremely toxic. However grinding the zinc coating 2-3" away from the weld point and welding outside will make the process nearly harmless
#3 they do look great! thank you!

 

Mount it to the bottom of the cab at the factory mount locations or to the frame ?

 

we have already established that

 

to the OP I stated that I used Galvanized water pipe, If you go to Lowe's they carry Southland Pipe & Company piping rating ASTM A-53 sold as generic GAL water pipe. "ASTM A53 is a carbon steel alloy, used for structural steel pipe. The alloy specifications are set by ASTM International, in specification ASTM A53/A53M. A53 pipe is suitable for structural or pressure applications".... I've done the homework.... However like I posted I did mount them to the cab mounts. I live in Florida not the MOAB they will do everything I need them to do and more. I butted the baset pipe to the stock lift point. Im so certain they will hold the truck up that I have Hi-Lifted the truck via the pipe... Is the frame a better spot? yes... but it will suffice for my needs! best of luck to you!

 

I wanna see pics of the truck lifted on those things

 

Florida or not you do not have sliders on your truck the cab is not designed to support the truck not sure why you think you have a lift point on your cab you don't. The first thing you hit with those they are going to cave in 1" pipe will never hold up as sliders even if they were welded to the frame.