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Headache Rack/Rooftop Basket Combo

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by clarktom6, Apr 23, 2014.

  1. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:02 AM
    #1
    clarktom6

    clarktom6 [OP] Member

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    I've been designing a headache rack with a rooftop basket attached (not sure if i want to weld rack or bolt it on for removal) and wanted to see if anyone had any input as to design flaws or additions. I plan on putting gussets where the rack and basket meet up. I only plan on using it for a camping gear/ATV riding gear, and a cooler. Curious to see what you all think. Also, plan on doing light tabs near wind deflector.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:09 AM
    #2
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Interesting concept
     
  3. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:18 AM
    #3
    clarktom6

    clarktom6 [OP] Member

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    Attached wrong file....

    Headache Rack with Rooftop Basket.jpg
     
  4. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:20 AM
    #4
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Same as I saw the first time

    Have you considered running a top rail the length of the bed for tie down points ?
     
  5. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:20 AM
    #5
    clarktom6

    clarktom6 [OP] Member

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    I need extra storage for when i load the ATV and Dirtbike in the bed, so this is what I came up with.
     
  6. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:22 AM
    #6
    clarktom6

    clarktom6 [OP] Member

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    It would get in the way of the Glidplate, brake and footpeg on my dirtbike. I only have an 1.5" clearance to the bed rail.
     
  7. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:23 AM
    #7
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Like this

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:26 AM
    #8
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco boost

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    I would add a support here. Those corners will have lots of stress on them.

    HeadacheRackwithRooftopBasket_zps5df5d42_7b167a87df843e81ad555b73be272fbb44cac353.jpg
     
  9. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:27 AM
    #9
    clarktom6

    clarktom6 [OP] Member

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    Not Sure if you can see the footpeg in that picture

    20140114_155542.jpg
     
  10. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:28 AM
    #10
    XJfella95

    XJfella95 Product Developer

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    A Few
    looks strong. Your cantilevered transition between the rack and the basket should be strong enough to hold its own weight but for extra measure, i would tie it into the factory roof racks forward most mounting points. this will alleviate any bouncing when you load it up with a cooler.

    also, you're showing sq tube from the whole construction. I would opt to use flat bar behind the glass and angle iron in a heel up orientation for the base of the basket to save weight.

    just a few things i can see, otherwise its a good design. just heavy.
     
  11. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:35 AM
    #11
    clarktom6

    clarktom6 [OP] Member

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    Thanks, I forgot to mention weight reduction in my original post.
     
  12. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:38 AM
    #12
    clarktom6

    clarktom6 [OP] Member

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    You think this would be enough for the corners?

    Headache Rack with Rooftop Basket_supports.jpg
     
  13. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:43 AM
    #13
    gooch14

    gooch14 Well-Known Member

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    My brother has a cheaply made ladder rack for his 1ton Ford LB that is like what you're describing Oz. For something tough to be made with that cross member would be very interesting to me. I also haul dirtbikes, OP, and I bet you could make the crossmember to be removable. Slide it out, load the bike, slide the beam back in. Bolts or quick pins.
     
  14. Apr 23, 2014 at 11:44 AM
    #14
    clarktom6

    clarktom6 [OP] Member

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    Great idea...wouldn't take much either.
     
  15. Apr 23, 2014 at 12:47 PM
    #15
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    The rear crossmember in that pic is removeable and nests against the front when not in use , I'll see if I have another pic
     
  16. Apr 23, 2014 at 12:52 PM
    #16
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    You can see the rear crossmember sits in a pocket and secured by a removeable through pin and cotter , when disconnected it nests inside the front crossmember

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Apr 26, 2014 at 5:34 PM
    #17
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Came across this pic

    ddfe6da7_3acd10fa12667b5302e631e75b5b7c056dbf2966.jpg
     
  18. Apr 26, 2014 at 5:39 PM
    #18
    avw4x4

    avw4x4 Well-Hung Member

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    ...loading....
    The roof rack they made on "trucks" was kind of what you're going for. Theirs wobbled more than I would want though, that's going to be kind of tough to get around with the cantilevered design I would think.
     
  19. May 26, 2014 at 5:46 PM
    #19
    LINCOLN45

    LINCOLN45 Well-Known Member

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    so if you used something like the n fab or other roof rack mount to support the basket over the cab
     
  20. Nov 10, 2014 at 5:38 PM
    #20
    TacomaTruckParts

    TacomaTruckParts Well-Known Member

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    OP, A few points not to be missed:

    Think twice before "connecting" a bed rack to a roof rack; If you do even mild off roading, there WILL be frame flex/twist. that is why the bed is separate from the cab, to allow for some movement. Bolting a bed/roof rack to roof mounts and bed mounts could cause damage somewhere..... at the weakest point of attachment.

    For the cantilever design to work and be strong, the wall thickness of the verticals, and the size of the "triangles" will play an important role. There are a couple different ways to do a cantilever type support.

    You are asking a lot from that type of design. Notice how true over-cab ladder racks are not bolted to the cab, but usually have a cantilever support for the over-cab section, and bolt only to the front and rear of the bed.... for the strength to carry the rated load capicity of the ladder rack.

    Jesse

    rack 1.jpg
    rack 2.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1370897944_710332.jpg
     

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