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Honda Accord help - stalling when hot

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Old 05-29-2011, 07:21 AM   #1
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Honda Accord help - stalling when hot

So my folks went out of town for the weekend and took mom's 99 Accord. After being on the highway for 4+ hours they were in town and while stopped at a traffic light the car stalled. It started back up again but in order to keep it running while stopped it has to be in neutral and revving the engine. This has happened once before, recently, and under the same conditions - after being out on the highway for an extended period and then stopped in traffic. They stopped and parked the car for a while, once it cooled down a bit it ran fine, no stalling. Mom recently had the timing belt, seals, water pump, etc replaced; this problem started after that work was done.

Any ideas what could be causing this? Seems to only happen when the engine is warm and has been running for extended periods. Mom and dad are a little worried that they will be stuck out of town if its something serious.
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Old 05-29-2011, 07:25 AM   #2
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Could be a cracked vacuum hose....
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Old 05-29-2011, 07:30 AM   #3
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Would that be the most likely cause with the hot engine=stall, cold engine=fine scenario? She's thinking that it has something to do with the timing belt, etc since that work was just done and that's when this problem started....
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Old 05-29-2011, 07:57 AM   #4
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I would think that a timing belt problem would be all the time.

Another possibility is the fuel filter.

I am just guessing here. If you are trying to fix the problem I would start with the basics, clean and regap the plugs, check the spark plug wires, clean the throttle body and maybe clean the MAF.
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:01 AM   #5
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I had a Dodge Dakota years ago that did this. Turned out to be a sensor that went bad. Cant remember what sensor but turned out to be an easy and cheap fix. Of course diagnosing it was the problem.
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:03 AM   #6
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check all the vac. lines, but sounds to me like the iacv needs to be taken apart and cleaned and screwed all the way in(the valve part on the bottom).
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:19 AM   #7
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Thanks guys...mom wasn't exactly forthcoming with info. She was more into cussing out the mechanic that did the timing belt work

The car just hit 100k and dad keeps an eye on regular maint. so whatever the problem is is likely to be mysterious and hard to diagnose

Fuel filter - possible, I don't think its ever been changed
Spark plugs - dad just changed those out not too long ago
Spark plug wires - not sure if those got changed out with the plugs or not
Vac lines - I will have them check those out
Sensors, etc - CEL has not been on so I'm thinking that its not likely to be the problem
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTgirl View Post
Thanks guys...mom wasn't exactly forthcoming with info. She was more into cussing out the mechanic that did the timing belt work

The car just hit 100k and dad keeps an eye on regular maint. so whatever the problem is is likely to be mysterious and hard to diagnose

Fuel filter - possible, I don't think its ever been changed
Spark plugs - dad just changed those out not too long ago
Spark plug wires - not sure if those got changed out with the plugs or not
Vac lines - I will have them check those out
Sensors, etc - CEL has not been on so I'm thinking that its not likely to be the problem
wish i was closer...i'd get them squared away. if later they cant figure anything out.....pm HondaGM(james)....he's damned good with hondas. has helped me with the prelude i had and alse my wifes 02 accord.
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Old 05-30-2011, 03:13 PM   #9
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In a GM world the crank position sensor will cause the problem you are describing.

The good news if it is it will break totally in a short while and the car will not start.

The bad news is you will not know where you will be when it breaks.

Hope you get the problem fixed quickly.
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Old 05-30-2011, 03:34 PM   #10
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IACV

Idle air control valve. Not to be mistaken with Intake air control valve.

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1575913
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Old 05-30-2011, 03:36 PM   #11
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Bad temp sensor
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Old 05-30-2011, 03:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95SLE View Post
In a GM world the crank position sensor will cause the problem you are describing.

The good news if it is it will break totally in a short while and the car will not start.

The bad news is you will not know where you will be when it breaks.

Hope you get the problem fixed quickly.
That would throw an CEL

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmdcfan View Post
IACV

Idle air control valve. Not to be mistaken with Intake air control valve.
So would this

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanrocket View Post
Bad temp sensor
And this....
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Old 05-30-2011, 03:50 PM   #13
DAMN GOOD DEAL!!
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sounds like it could be a Mass Air Meter..or some other type of sensor as when the vehicle is cold also referred to as Open Loop the engine is running off of computer presets after it reaches operating temp. or Closed Loop the engine then runs off of sensor readings. also not every sensor will set a check engine light...it could be skewing enough to cause a problem but not enough for the computer to recognize a problem and throw a CEL..and it could set a fault with no CEL
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Old 05-30-2011, 03:51 PM   #14
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRDKenE View Post
sounds like it could be a Mass Air Meter..or some other type of sensor as when the vehicle is cold also referred to as Open Loop the engine is running off of computer presets after it reaches operating temp. or Closed Loop the engine then runs off of sensor readings
also would throw an CEL.
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Old 05-30-2011, 03:57 PM   #15
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Mom and dad made it home safely a little bit ago and the car was fine today! I gave mom a list of the things you guys have mentioned; dad will check out what he can and go from there.
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Old 05-30-2011, 04:00 PM   #16
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Similar thing happened in my 91' Accord way back when but the radiator took a dive so thats what the problem was.
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Old 05-30-2011, 04:07 PM   #17
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Not everything throws a CEL Chris...had a Subaru the other day with a bad MAF meter and did not have a CEL..belive me I wish thing were cut and dry it would make my life easier
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Old 05-30-2011, 04:08 PM   #18
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRDKenE View Post
Not everything throws a CEL Chris...had a Subaru the other day with a bad MAF meter and did not have a CEL..belive me I wish thing were cut and dry it would make my life easier
What year was it?
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Old 05-30-2011, 04:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacomaman06 View Post
check all the vac. lines, but sounds to me like the iacv needs to be taken apart and cleaned and screwed all the way in(the valve part on the bottom).
Agreed, sounds like an idle air control valve issue. Also, when I used to sell auto parts, the older Hondas seemed to go through ignition modules. Normally I believe they fail hot, but don't run at all. Yours sounds kinda different, but thought I would throw that out there.
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Old 05-30-2011, 04:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRDKenE View Post
Not everything throws a CEL Chris...had a Subaru the other day with a bad MAF meter and did not have a CEL..belive me I wish thing were cut and dry it would make my life easier
Yeah, you would think there would be CEL, or at least a code logged into the computer. I know on my brother's old Dodge Dakota the IACV failed and there was no light or codes present, just wouldn't idle without your foot on the gas.

Come to think of it, if the OP hasn't already had the computer scanned for codes, that may be a good step to take. I had a crank sensor fail on a Jeep once, it stalled out several times, couldn't figure out what was wrong with it, mechanic couldn't reproduce it, finally pulled the codes and it had a crank sensor code, just had to look and we had our answer. But no check engine light lit up on that one.
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