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Old 09-12-2010, 11:36 PM   #41
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DAMN IT!!! I see this right after I ordered my running boards. I've been looking for a deal for some sliders, but ended up getting running boards for the steps for short people.
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:35 AM   #42
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How many holes need to be drilled for the bolt on round tube sliders on a '11 DCLB? I'm debating on if I want to pay the extra money so they're removable.
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:10 AM   #43
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I am interested in some round tube sliders for a 1st gen" 02", dc/db and have a few questions.
i like that they are tucked in as i mostly just need a little protection from light trails. You mention that a hi lift can be used on the slider as a jacking point. I am curious to know since they are tucked in if the top of the hi lift could come in contact with the door?
would you recomend the tube attachment for the hi lift for added security/safety?
what is the total length for the 1st gen dc/sb?
Total price shipped to 29640?
these are exactly what i have been looking for just don't want to beat my doors up from the hi lift. Seems like the top of the lift would want to pivot towards the vehicle.

Thank you in advance.
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:44 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshR324 View Post
How many holes need to be drilled for the bolt on round tube sliders on a '11 DCLB? I'm debating on if I want to pay the extra money so they're removable.
For a LB you would just need to drill 5 holes on the bottom side of the frame, per side, so 10 holes total. Like I said though, that's only on the underside of the frame. The rest use existing factory holes. The bottom bolts reinforce it and allow for these to be used just as harshly as the weld-ons. Bolt on or weld on, our sliders will support a hi lift and take the same amount of punishment.

When we do it here at the shop we put the drill facing upward on a jack and slowly raise it up. And as always, start small, work up to a 1/2" hole.

Keep in mind as well, you're paying extra for bolt ons coz we give ya all grade 8 hardware and nylock nutz
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:48 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matic View Post
I am interested in some round tube sliders for a 1st gen" 02", dc/db and have a few questions.
i like that they are tucked in as i mostly just need a little protection from light trails. You mention that a hi lift can be used on the slider as a jacking point. I am curious to know since they are tucked in if the top of the hi lift could come in contact with the door?
would you recomend the tube attachment for the hi lift for added security/safety?
what is the total length for the 1st gen dc/sb?
Total price shipped to 29640?
these are exactly what i have been looking for just don't want to beat my doors up from the hi lift. Seems like the top of the lift would want to pivot towards the vehicle.

Thank you in advance.
Never heard any complaints about the hi lift foot hitting the doors. Only thing I've ever seen is sometimes people don't put the hi lift far enough in and it leans forward leaving a small mark on the door. But that's improper lifting, not the sliders

Total length for all first gens is 81".

I'll let Jason or Kasey answer the rest when they get in. I'm an early bird, lol.

Thanks for the interest!
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:12 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by JCfromDEMELLO View Post
Never heard any complaints about the hi lift foot hitting the doors. Only thing I've ever seen is sometimes people don't put the hi lift far enough in and it leans forward leaving a small mark on the door. But that's improper lifting, not the sliders

Total length for all first gens is 81".

I'll let Jason or Kasey answer the rest when they get in. I'm an early bird, lol.

Thanks for the interest!

Thanks Jeremy,

The round tubes have no problem being used as a hi-lift problem. You just need to make sure you mount the jack properly before jacking. And the sliders adapters do work with our round sliders as well.
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:45 AM   #48
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We made our 10 count so everyone from here till the end of the month is good on the price
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Old 09-15-2010, 12:47 PM   #49
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just ordered mine last week, can't wait, also got a full set of Bud skids to go with them.
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:33 PM   #50
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Bump for still needing a price of the bolt ons shipped to 32223.
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Old 09-15-2010, 02:52 PM   #51
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Bump for still needing a price of the bolt ons shipped to 32223.

Sorry must have missed this.

150.00 for shipping.
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:17 AM   #52
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Bump..
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:31 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hookedontronics View Post
What is hybrid and double tube rock crusher? I checked your website but idk
Hybrids are a mix of 1 3/4" round tube on top with round spacers connecting it to a 2" square base with square legs to match. They also angle up to tuck in close to the body.

RockCrushers are straight out, no angle, all 2" square angling out on either end (see the above pics of the Rockcrushers). Hybrids and rockcrushers are the toughest sliders we build. I personally run the RockCrushers (double square tube) on my Tacoma and Jason runs the Hybrids on his FJ.

Hope this helps!
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Old 09-20-2010, 04:10 PM   #55
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Does welding onto the frame cause any problems? I'm thinking bolt-on would be better for if/when you have to remove them. I've flushed(with a oxy/acy torch) and grinded off welds at work many times and would prefer not to have to do that to the frame of my truck! LOL
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Old 09-20-2010, 05:14 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K Williams View Post
Does welding onto the frame cause any problems? I'm thinking bolt-on would be better for if/when you have to remove them. I've flushed(with a oxy/acy torch) and grinded off welds at work many times and would prefer not to have to do that to the frame of my truck! LOL
Welding the sliders to the frame does not cause any problems. It kinda acts like mid body frame reinforcement actually. Mine are welded to my truck. The quality of the welds is up to the welder you find soooooo ...since yer in NY, unless ya ship your truck to us ( ...kidding ...), you gotta look for a reputable shop.

Bolt on is your choice. If there's any doubt in your mind you would keep these sliders for the rest of the life of the truck, by all means, go bolt on.

Bolt on or weld on, our sliders can still be used as a jacking point for a hi-lift and they will hold up to just as much abuse.

I considered cutting mine off a while back but decided I just loved my rock crushers too much to give them up

Since rock crushers stick straight out all I would have had to do is cut the legs where they met the bodies of the sliders. I was going to weld on a single tube to the existing legs and just paint them. Glad I changed my mind!

Getting round or hybrids welded on and then deciding you want to get rid of them later would be a hassle indeed, since the legs go up at an angle, away from the frame and up toward the body which sits tight, right near the body. So like I said, if there's any doubt as to your intentions to keep the sliders for good, go for bolt on.
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Old 09-21-2010, 12:50 AM   #57
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Will this GB offer work with a pair of 2010 4runner bolt on sliders?
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Old 09-21-2010, 04:04 PM   #58
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Will this GB offer work with a pair of 2010 4runner bolt on sliders?
No, we have not finished or released the 2010 sliders officially yet. We are still waiting for the bolt on brackets for them.
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:35 PM   #59
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shipping to 07843
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Old 09-23-2010, 10:30 AM   #60
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shipping to 07843
depending on the style 100-150.0
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