Originally Posted by cverneau
How's the heat output on the housings?? I'll run my own harness with relay and seperate fuse block.
No problem that I have seen, I replaced the 16GA wire with 14GA wire, the thing to watch for is any of the hot wires getting warm when you turn it on, the one 16GA wire that got warm was the single hot hire coming from the battery. I replaced that one with 14GA. Most lights also have a single 16GA coming from the relay that is split into two hots for the lights, IDK if this would be fine for two 130 watt bulbs because I ran a hot to each of the lights from a 5 pin relay (most are 4 but you can find 30amp relays that have two hot pins instead of one), instead of the factory set up. It may be a bit of overkill to do it this way but in replacing all the 16GA with 14GA and eliminating the splitter i wanted to be sure i wouldn't have a problem.
Now this is the set up for a lighting set up that is NOT switched off of the high-beams, it has it's own independent switch in the cab. For two pairs of lights I have one 30 amp relay for each pair and the switch wire from each relay is wired together so a single lead wire goes back into cab to the switch.
I don't recall what size fuse the original 55 watt lights had but i replaced them with 25amp fuses. When you do the math (130 [watts] X 2 [bulbs] = 260 [total watts] divided by 12 [voltage of the system] = 21.66 [amps total] then a 25 amp fuse is the right fuse for this set up.
You are taking a risk every time you modify an electrical system of your vehicle so by running a 25amp fuse, a 5 pin 30amp relay and heavier gauge wire for EACH pair i felt the extra money and effort is well worth it.
I have tested the system by turning it on for a half hour while the truck is parked and running and feeling for any warmth in all the hot wires as well as the light housings themselves.