Trail Toys NSA Switch Panel

(2) NSA SWITCH PANELS IN STOCK!

The NSA (No Strings Attached) Switch Panel is your answer to a painless 12 volt accessory switch. No longer do you have to run power wires through the firewall to your switches, let alone have to find a spot to put those switches. The only thing you have to find room for in the cab is a small eight button wireless remote.

Our Tacomas seem to have less and less convenient spots for switch panels as the years go on, but the NSA switch panel takes care of that. The panel is controlled via radio frequency, with a range of 250ft. Not that you’ll need to power your winch from 250ft away, but you could.

Another advantage to the NSA panel is the flexibility of it’s programing. You have a total of eight different programming options. The different options are listed below.

1. Toggle
2. Momentary
3. Latched
4. Toggle (1-4), Momentary (5-8)
5. Toggle (1-4), Latched (5-8)
6. Momentary (1-4), Latched (5-8)
7. Toggle (1-6), Momentary (7-8)
8. Toggle (1-6), all on/off (7-8)

Toggle = Press on and press again for off
Latched = Press one button for on, and press any other button to turn them off.

(If you’re running four trail cameras on your rig you can set up your switch to setting #5. That way when you press 5 your forward facing camera comes on, and when you press 6, #5 turns off and #6 turns on.)

The programming can be changed to any of the eight settings at any time by the end user.

My personal switch panel, which has been installed in my truck for the past 9 months is set to #7. That allows me to run my winch power in and power out through buttons 7 and 8. It’s real nice to hold on to the end of your winch line and pull yourself up the hill while you wind your winch back in.

The retail price of the switch panel will be $349, but I’m going to drop the price to $299 (plus shipping) to the first 10 buyers. A deposit of $150 will be required up front, and full payment due before shipping. The switch panel is already in production and should be at my door before the end of April. I’m going to run this deal till April 30th. If the switch panels show up before then I will contact those members that have paid a deposit and get their panels shipped out. Please PM me for payment details.

https://youtu.be/5_FratJL7Gg










https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHErcxlIFjg

 

Here are a few other details about the panel that you’ll want to know.

- Eight (8) switched 30amp relays

Each output is fused with a standard automotive fuse

- The board is designed to handle a minimum of 240 amps

- Each of the 8 outputs is clearly marked on the circuit board, 1-8

- An LED is on each of the switched outputs on the circuit board

- The circuit board is supplied in a waterproof box measuring200mmx120mmx55mm

- There are two waterproof connectors leading from the box

The first connector houses the 4gauge main power wire
The second connector houses the (8) 14gauge lead wires, plus the common ground wire.

- The wiring consists of the following:

4 gauge main power wire
14 gauge outputs
14 gauge ground
All 14 gauge wires extend 4’ outside of the waterproof box
The 4 gauge power wire extends 2’ outside of the waterproof box

For those of you that are concerned about cross feeding signals, you don't need to worry. Each remote is individually keyed to it's board. There won't be any cross contamination.

Please let me know if you have any questions

 

Damn I wish I would have known about this before I ordered my custom Bussmann...

 

Saw this in person a few months ago. Worked flawlessly switching between lights. Workmanship looks and feels very solid.

 

Bummer! Have fun putting that thing together.

Thanks Aaron. I'm sure that new shiny 4runner of yours could use one.

 

Here's what I have running off of my switch panel.

1. ARB Compressor power
2. Rear locker
3. Front locker
4. HID spot lights
5. Rock lights
6. Winch power
7. Winch in (Momentary)
8. Winch out (Momentary)

I'll get a few videos of the switch panel in action this weekend.

 

It's already put together. Should be plug and play when it gets here. But this has some extra swank to it that speaks to me.

 

I don't have anything to hook up to it...yet.

 

going to ponder on this some more......

 

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Okay, I'll bite. I'm in.

 

PM'd

 

I love the way this girl looks, but I gotta talk to her some before I take her home. Love the idea of fewer wires shoved through the firewall. As cool as having an SR-71 cockpit full of lights and switches is, this seems waaaay easier. And I'm just at this stage of wiring up all my crap.

Couple questions:

What battery does that remote run off of?

Is there a backup for the remote, or is the only way to run the switches via the wireless? That is, are any of the switches operable if the remote dies / gets broken / gets submerged? If there's some sort of backup, a hardwire port, little physical switches on the board or something - no matter how inconvenient - just so long as there's a backup, I'll buy it right now.

Just a concern based on experience - anything wireless I have a backup for. I've had enough wireless gizmos fail on me that when I'm out in the middle of nowhere, I want to make sure I have a guaranteed way to turn my compressor on if I run over the remote, if the sun cooks it or whatever. I always have the cable, the ethernet dongle, whatever the hardwire backup is.

 

The remote runs off of a 23A 12V battery, which is easily replaced via Amazon or your local supermarket.

Powertron 23A 12V Alkaline Battery (5 Pack)

Here's a link to a set of five on Amazon.

Currently there is not a hard wired backup to the remote. I will say that I've beaten mine up pretty good over the past nine months and haven't had a single issue, although I do understand the concern for a backup.

For the most part the accessories that we wire up in our trucks are not completely necessary to avoid having an issue if the remote dies. If my spot lights don't turn on it's not the end of the world. Like I said, I do understand your concern.

I do have an option for you though. You can purchase a second remote as a backup. Keep the second remote in your glove box for that oh shit moment. The second remote can easily be paired with your board and the cost of the remote is minimal compared to the cost of the circuit board itself.

Please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns.

 

I will have to confirm with my supplier, but I believe I'll be able to sell spare remotes for around $25.

 

So I have very few items on my truck right now, how would this work with say the ditch lights that I have?

 

Are you going to be bringing these to Jambo as well?

 

It's pretty simple to get up and running with my switch panel.

* Find a spot for it under the hood first
* Hook up the positive and negative leads to the switch panel
* You'll need a fuse or circuit breaker for the positive lead
* Wire the two positive leads on your ditch lights together
* Run one positive lead from the panel to that pair of wires
* Ground both lights
* Hit the button and you'll have light

No worrying about where to put a switch inside, no crawling around under your dash trying to snake wires through, no running power to switches, everything is done under the hood.

I do plan to have a couple of the switch panels with me at Jambo.

 

Well shit I might drop too much money at Jambo lol.

Another question I have a blue seas fuse box. Does this replace that? If so how easy is the swap?