Firearm BS thread

Anybody have an original mosin nagant sling? I wasn't able to get one with the gun when purchased. Figured I would check here before ebay. If you do PM me! Thanks!

 

father picked up a colt AR and another 1911...and a few other goodies at the last NRA fundraiser.

think im gonna start messing with the internals on this one

 

Damn it!
I opened my gun safe tonight to clean my Remington 700 (I carried it hunting this weekend), and I bumped my Savage 19NRA when I was pulling the Remington past it. I dropped the cleaning kit, juggled the Remington, and tried to catch the Savage, but I missed it and it fell over. Fortunately it's in a room with a carpeted floor, so no metal damage. But the stock has a ding in it now from where it hit the lip on the safe door frame.
I'll have to make some time this weekend to steam the dent out now. Bah.
The NRA's not the most valuable gun in my collection by a wide margin, but it's a neat old shooter (factory equipped with an interchangeable peep sight or standard v-notch blade) and I hate damaging my antiques.

 

^ damn sorry to hear!

In other news, I used my AK as a jack stand the other day and my Mosin as a breaker bar

 

Sounds as though you were well equipped, but for the wrong sort of trouble.

 

I just upgraded to a larger safe last year...and I kept the old one too. Just clumsy, I guess

As for steaming dents, it's pretty straightforward. Dents are just spots where you've compressed in the wood fibers in the stocks. 90% of the time you can steam them out (bigger dents where you've actually broken the fibers don't work as well, but steaming them will usually at least reduce the size of the dent)

It's pretty simple. You need a towel (one you don't care too much about, but NOT a paper towel), some water, and a soldering iron.
1) Lay the towel over the stock and drip some water onto it where the dent is. You want to keep the wet spot on the towel localized to just where the dent is; don't go pouring water all over your stock!
2) Let the soldering iron heat up for a minute while the wood absorbs some of the water from the towel.
3) Lay the soldering iron onto the towel over the dent. Careful not to burn the wood! (this part is as much art as science, since no soldering iron heats the same as another). Once you see steam that's hot enough; remove the soldering iron and let the stock/towel cool down. Repeat until the dent has disappeared. Be careful not to overdo it, or you may end up with a bump where you had a dent!

The basic concept is that the wood fibers in a gun stock compress when they're dented. Putting the damp towel onto the dent lets the fibers absorb some of the water. The soldering iron converts the water to steam (which expands) and swells the fibers back out to their original shape.
Usually it takes a few cycles of steaming to get the dent out all the way, but it typically works like a charm. I've steamed several of the stocks on my older guns during the initial "break down and deep clean" I give them after a purchase, and I've only had one or two that didn't steam out.
One thing you can do also is practice on an ordinary board before you start steaming the valuable stock on your expensive gun. Just whack the board with a hammer and steam the dent out.

I'll try to remember to take some pictures of the process if I get time to do it this weekend.

 

Yeah, it really does work well.
I've heard of people de-stocking the gun and running the stock through the dishwasher, but there's no way in hell I'm trying that one. I like the soldering iron for controllability.

 

I've heard of people also using clothing irons, may be a bit easier to control the temp? (not really sure)

and recently got an update on some custom 1911 grips I'm having made out of mahogany, I found a block of mahogany that my dad had rough cut for a shotgun stock before he died. Fast a few years and I had the shotgun repaired with the original fore stock, and thought we had lost the block of mahogany. Well I recently found it and decided to do something with it before I lost it again

Anyways , here is a picture of an update he sent me of one of the 2 sets he is working on for me. This isn't finished yet, but should be finished within the next week or so (I hope). The second set is going to be smooth with my initials on one side and my dads on the other.

 

Need more info.
How many rounds through each? What kind of condition are they in? Any aftermarket work/parts/accessories included in the trade? Around here they both sell for around $550-600 new, so they're comparable in terms of pricing. But used guns are all about ownership.

Most important, which gun would you rather have? Would you rather have the FNH, or the S&W?
Personally, I'd say pass, but that's because I'm a S&W guy myself. I'm sure there's FNH guys who'll say go for it.

 

Dunno. Clothing irons might work just as well. Personally I like the soldering iron because it means I'm only putting heat on the dent, but I'm sure the heat controllability probably makes for a shorter learning curve.

 

Purdy. What are you going to use for a finish?

 

Not a clue, I'm having them made because I didn't want to risk screwing them up (which I have a habit of doing to important projects)

My instructions were basically a smooth set with initials and a half stopped set both with traditional cut (no magwell or ambi safety).

Beyond that I told him to make them look good and use his judgment (has some awesome holster work as well)

The big thing for me was just that it was my block of mahogany from my dad.

 

Would you rather have a full size double stack or a subcompact single stack? Pretty much answers whether or not you should trade..

 

Both seem to be hovering around $500 on gun broker and armslist (I thought the shield was less than that new though?) so I'm sure you wouldn't lose much if any if you do the trade. If you cant seem to sell the shield and you just want it gone, I'd say do it.

 

FYI a few places have the Shield in stock right now for $359 and LE pricing is $319.

 

subadub

 

FWIW the LE model is in shorter supply than the standard version. If you have a local FFL you trust why not just order online at one of the many places who sell them for $359?

 

I'm telling you why you may not have sold a used firearm for $450 that can be had new pretty readily for $100 less. Do what you will with that information brooo.

 

So I inherited this old lever gun, it's useless to me as is, so I think I will do a tactical job on it. I've got some black krylon laying around somewhere that I have had good luck with as well as a couple of extra rails and a light. I'm thinking about a reflex sight as well. The barrel is thick enough that I should be able to drill and tap it for rails, I think I also have an extra laser somewhere and a vertical fore grip.

 

interesting plans for the lever gun. I have a marlin 30-30 and love it. Just pick up a M&P 40c the other day too.