Reloading BS thread

Every different gun has different tastes. What shoots good in one guys' gun may not shoot well in yours. My advise would be get a book (Speer, Hornady, Lyman, etc) and start having fun. Check out http://reloadersnest.com/query_bw.asp?CaliberID=61&BulletWeight=180. Lots of good information on there but a good book with specifics such as COL, trim length etc is invaluable.

 

Just stumbled on this thread! I skimmed through all the pages and don't think I saw anyone mention 454 casull rounds. Anyone here ever load some and have any tips to get them right? I have no reloading gear but I may try a few with my co-worker who's got a nice bench. Thanks in advance!

 

What do you mean by 'get them right"? There are tons of proven loads available at your fingertips. I started with an idea and a single stage press. I bought a book, powders, bullets etc and just tried lots of different things. To me, the most fun is finding which loads work best, and which do not, by shooting your own ammo. I get lots of satisfaction from the good loads of my own hand cast bullets too. Sorry I kinda went off coarse there. 454 Casull. Thumper.

 

I meant work best, not get them right I guess. Reloading is new to me and i've never done anything other than shotgun shells which are easy.

 

OK guys, I have gotten a few PMs about sorting bullets for precision shooting, so I figured I will just add a write up here instead of sending a bunch of PMs. Hope someone finds this useful:


In the world of mass produced bullets, No projectile (bullet) is going to be the same as the next. Even buying match grade (all I buy is SMK or Lapua Scenars, both match grade and considered among the best). Even with that though, there is always a 4-5 grain variation (sometimes more) within a box of bullets, and of course there is a HUGE variation in meplat of each bullet. There is always a variation in ogive, diameter, runout, etc.

Basically, for normal shooting none of this matters, however, when reaching out to 1500 yards, the name of the game is consistency. A 20 fps variation in muzzle velocity on a 308 will end up being about a 10” bullet drop at 1000 yards, so, in competition, or just good old fun long range, you want EVERYTHING about your round to be identical to the next to get consistent groups. So, what do I do? (and again, some will feel this is anal and overkill, so you can do as much or as little of these steps as you wish):

1. Buy in bulk, much cheaper…plus there is better odds that the bullets are from the same or back to back lots, meaning they should be more consistent than a box of 100 picked up today, and another box of 100 picked up a month from now (theoretically, in real life I have never really tried to prove this though haha) Anyway, go pickup a box of 500 175 gr SMK and perform the following:

2. Measure Bullet diameter and runout: Using a micrometer, I measure diameter (which is usually dead on) in multiple locations along the bullet and in multiple angles about the center axis. This will tell you if a bullet is out of round (egg shaped). If one is one or two tenths out of round, I demote it to a fouling shot. YES I know that in real life, the bullet is plastic when traveling through the barrel and will form to the roud barrel, BUT in my mind that will take away some energy, kick start it differently, etc. Maybe its anal, but I want to be constant.

3. Measure Bullet Bearing Surface: This measures the portion of the bullet that actually touches the rifling/barrel. Basically think of it this way, if a caliber you are shooting has a nominal bearing area of 0.25”, but when measuring you get one bullet that has a surface of 0.24” and another that has a bearing surface of 0.26”, that variation will greatly change your POI. The one that has a bearing surface of 0.26” has, obviously more contact with the barrel, therefore more resistance, which will build up higher pressure and results in higher muzzle velocity (higher POI), and likewise, the less bearing surface will result in lower POI.

There are a few ways to do this, my method is the bump gage method, as I already have bump gages to measure and determine the brass trim length for each of my actions. So, if you do not have these you need:

- Calipers
- (2) bump gage bodes and insert for your caliber (http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/measuring-tools/bullet-comparator-inserts/sinclair-insert-style-bullet-comparator-prod34014.aspx)

Basically, put the a bump gage (with appropriate insert for your caliber) on either side of your calipers (one on each blade facing each other), close them up to 0 them, then insert a bullet and measure. Then repeat for all bullets. Viola, you have your variation in bearing surface. Now sort into lots of identical bearing surfaces.

4. Trim Meplats: All Meplats were not created equally. This is VERY obvious if you simply look at the tip of your bullet. Even match grade have slight imperfections on the metplat (point of the bullet). So to fix this, pick up the following:

- http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/meplat-uniforming/sinclair-meplat-trimmers-prod36562.aspx

Using this is self explanatory, push bullet in and trim until you get a uniform tip, set the stop to that position, then run all your bullets through it. Magically ALL your bullets have identical tips. YES this will drop your BC slightly, but I’d rather have a constant slightly lower BC then a completely random BC from one shot to the next.

5. Weigh and Sort Bullet: Self-explanatory, I weight each bullet and sort by lots of .2 grain for standard shooting. If I am REALLLLLY trying to reach out and touch something, I will sort and get a lot of identical weights.

Note: Some long range shooter “point” the bullets. There is a die system that will press a keener point into a hollow point (SMK, etc) to get higher BC. This is still in the air as far as results of this. Some ppl believe its better for .224 and smaller diameters, but not as effective for larger diameter bullets. Personally I do not do it, however, if I am bored one day, I may do some tests and try it out. If anyone does test it out, let me know the results.


The end, now load them up in sorted and consitant brass, put an identical charge behind them, seat them to the correct depth for your chamber (which changes over time, so remember to remeasure once in awhile), and go have some fun. If you have questions, let me know, hope his was helpful.

 

good info, i'll add to the OP.

 

Rifle and pistol aren't difficult either. I think a clean work area and focus are up there on the list of importance. I started from knowing nothing and just taught myself. Trial and error, i'm just glad I have not made any serious errors lol.

 

^ cool. I'll check back in after i've got a few loads under my belt with my co-worker who's got a nice bench I can learn on. He was excited to help me get goin

Thanks

 

bit of a thread revival, but check out what I have managed to pick up at the range this semester, I ahve friends who have dibs on a lot of it. anything I am gonna start reloading for this summer I am keeping, but the rest is getting traded off to some friends (I'mm keeping the 30-30, 45 colt, 30-06, and the 7mm-08). I shoot at a public range and go weekly on friday or saturday. this is over the course of about 5 (up to 8 or so) range trips, the majority of the brass is once fired (I watched most of them shooting it).

Caliber Number of brass
.223/5.56 859
30-06 56
308 44
7mm rem mag 8
270 5
7mm-08 3
30-30 110
25-06 9
303 brit 15
45-70 govt 8
6.8 spc 36

.30 carbine 55


.45 LC 620
.45 ACP 334
.40 S&W 714
9mm 432 432
.38 special 333
.357 mag 28
.25 acp 30



I'm setting up for the .45 LC first, and buying enough materials to load 1000 rounds of it. most of it will be cast target rounds, but I will load 100 rounds with the following load: 225 grain Hollow Point; 15.8 grains of Blue Dot; CCI magnum primer

I have a box of reloads (shot them, still have load data from 87) from my dad from before he passed. That is the load that is in them. I don't know what I will do for the rest, I just know that I will be loading them as cheap as possible for plinking.

I'll be buying materials in bulk for everything that I will be reloading and starting on a single stage press. I will not be loading the rifle rounds for extreme accuracy, but will find the best load I can that doesn't involve weighing each case, each bullet, and doing a bunch of other stuff that makes for super accurate rounds....I'll be reloading for fun "lets go shooting ammo".

Next semester I may start selling any brass that I won't use myself. If it goes anything like these few range trips went, I will end up with a lot.

 

I just put together my most accurate load yet for the 6mm.
55 gr Nosler Ballistic Tip Varmint
46 gr of Hodgdon BL-C(2)
Remington 9 1/2 primer
neck sized only
col 2.775"

under 1" @100 yds. Not bad for an old Remington model 788. Going to be working up a 65 gr V-Max or 70 gr Nosler BT next.

 

1 inches sounds good to me lol

I eat my first pay check of the summer this Wednesday, I'm picking up a vibratory cleaner with it and the as much of the other stuff as I can get for loading .45colt. Next paycheck I'll get the rest lol

Now if I can just find primers

 

Keep your eyes open, there are primers out there. A little tip on finding some, check out the small shops around you that carry reloading equipment.

 

You loading that 45 Colt for cowboy action stuff or Ruger/TC Contender loads? I got myself a 4" RedHawk a couple of years ago. I have fired I bet no less than (1000) rounds through that revolver since then. I load to 44 magnum speeds with it and it has some recoil to it launching 300 grain pills. I ran (25) lead cowboy type action loads through it and I swear I could see the bullet going downrange when the sun was right. That is all the slow rounds that have been through it, all the other ones were at 44 mag speeds. The most I have gotten velocity wise from that 4" is 1187 FPS with Cor-Bon 300 grain hunting rounds. With my loads using 300 grain Hornady's I get around 1100 max with 2400 powder.

 

Both lol

I shoot a ruger new model black hawk, so It can handle whatever I put it in. I have a 7.5 inch barrel so that helps some of the hot loads....I like recoil on that gun lol

I'll have most loaded to cowboy specs, with cast bullets (most likely semi was cutters), but ill have about 100 rounds loaded with 225 grain (I think) jacketed hollow points over some thing like 20 ish grains of blue dot with a cci magnum primer

My dad reloaded before he passed away and I found some of his old load data for the .45 colt. I've shot some of those loads and they are smoking lol, I had a lot of fun shooting them so will copy the load exactly....I think the chronograph info I got off the load data was a little under 1200 fps with that ooad

 

Small shops have everything else I need so don't think it will be a problem finding them.....or so I hope. I've also been told that since I'm shooting a single action I can run small rifle primers in the loads as well. I haven't done any research on this fact though. Would make it easier if I can have a few different options for primers though



I have also just realized I have a slightly bigger problem than finding primers.....I need to figure out a place to reload at. There is no room in my home for it, but We have a barn. Here is my dilemma, the barn is sheltered from the rain but it is your classic old Tabasco barn with the gaps between the slats. I would have a lot of problems with dust and also worry about humidity rust my equipment. Would I have any trouble loading there? Right now I'm Planning on setting up out there, there is a section of the barn that I think I can clear out and put sand then concrete blocks down. As well as make walls for it if I wanted to. I would also be spraying an old t shirt with a lot of oil like I do to my oil rags for my guns when I need a new one (aka I lost my old one), and then making sure the stuff is wrapped and covered with it.

 

I just finished my setup for loading .223, by mounting everything to a 12"x24" piece of 3/4" Alder plywood. I use C clamps to fix it to my router table, but can move it anywhere I need it - the range, for example.

 

First thing, be careful with hot loads. Learned wisdom has taught us to start mild, and work your way up. Checking for signs of over pressure etc as you increase the powder charger. Also, continuously shooting hot loads through a gun could cause problems down the road.
Second thing, I too have also looked into the substitution of primers. I have heard YES, it works well enough. I have also heard NO, don't push the idea. Primers are designed for use in 'X' type of cartridge and leave it be. Personally, I go with what my books tell me.
Lastly, you can easily make a movable reloading set up. Use a solid board to mount your press, powder measure or other equipment to which then you would clamp down to a table or other work bench. Good luck with everything.

 

This is the 300 grain Cor-Bon Hunting round muzzle flash. 3 ways to kill with this bullet/revolver combination; bullet, flames or scare them to death. Velocity was only 1187 FPS but from a 4" that is about right. Tacoma in the background.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10728824/GunStuff/SLORHMB.wmv

The above link goes to a slow motion video of this shot.

 

I know to be careful with hot loads, I love shooting them, but will mostly load lighter target loads.

They primers I am mainly curious because of how getting primers can be right now, aka if I am desperate to reload some rounds for whatever I might need them for

As for the moveable press, I know I could set it up as portable, but I really want to have a more permanent set up. I wouldn't have my powders or prints there though.

I have just found out that there is a 4 leg stand of heavy steel that looks to be perfect for a press (about 1 ft square on the top) and a metal desk in the metal recycling bin at my work. Im bringing my boss a bucket of fat wood then asking if I can grab them lol. The stand is a little I think so I am gonna sink it into the ground a little bit which will also make it a bit more stable I'm hoping

 

my newish reloading bench