Reloading BS thread

That was before lawyers and insurance companies got their fingers into it. Most reloading info today is mellowed a bit since the 60's and 70's.

 

I need to find an older book....for loading ,45 colt ruger loads

 

Found my pet load for 6mm Rem. 41.0 gr IMR 8208 XBR, 70gr Nosler Ballistic Tip, Rem 9 1/2 primers and neck sized cases. Shooting at a little over 3500 fps. Zero hold-over out to 300 yds @1" high at 100 yds. 28" drop at 550yds.

 

Took pictures of the load data in my book and pmed them to you.

 

Anyone looking for any 9mm, 40 S&W, 45 GAP, 357 Sig or 38 special brass?

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/buy-sell-trade-other/337326-reloading-brass.html#post8937128

 

Made my own custom die today to form shot shells for my 45acp from 308 brass. So far it has made and produced a few good looking pieces. Now to just load them up and shoot a couple. I also had just the brass in my magazine and they would feed, chamber, and eject each time I racked the slide. So far so good.

 

Curious about this one- let us know how it works out. Might be good medicine for snake bite.

 

So far so good. Now to just fine tune everything. The die works. However it needs a really good polishing to smooth things up to reduce the amount of pressure it take to form it. It still produces good looking shells with EVEN necks. I ran the empty shells in my XDm 45acp magazine and they would feed, chamber, and eject when I racked the slide. I loaded some this morning and used a bullet seating die for the 45 to roll the mouth of the shell over and create a "crimp". That worked very well. I used thin cardboard for the wads and overshot wad. I believe using these thin pieces of cardboard did not give me enough pressure to operate the action. Next I will try to use thicker material, and eventually get some 410 wads and cut them down to length. They fired perfectly though with a fairly even spread about 8 inches at about 10 ft.

 

With the short case and roll on the rim I'd think you'd get stovepiping- but then maybe the later hit on the ramp lets the nose bounce into the hood rather than out of the gun. Good job with the experiment.

 

I don't quite understand what you mean. The roll on the rim straightens out when the round is fired.

 

45acp headspaces off the case mouth. DO NOT ROLL CRIMP. A slight taper crimp is advisable but a roll crimp can/will cause casehead separation or worse.

 

Roll crimp in fine for revolvers. NOT semiautos

 

Went back and read your original post.

How much powder are you using?

I still don't think a roll crimp will work for 45acp but depending on the powder charge I'm not as concerned with kabooms or casehead separation.

 

I'm not roll crimping a capsule in place. I have started at 4.5grs of Green Dot. I am just crimping the end enough to hold an over shot wad in place. I have fired the same 3 shells for testing 3 times so far. No issues as of yet. Also I am having to experiment with the wads. Finally got some seated tight enough to operate the action enough to eject the shell but not enough to grab the next shell out of the magazine. I also understand that the 45acp headspaces off the case mouth. That is the reason for using 308 cut down but longer than a regular 45acp case. The shoulder creates the headspace. Here's is one source I amusing for information. http://www.avr-developers.com/45shotshell/hl80.html

 

Very cool.

 

I see you are over on Reloadersnest also. TW is awesome for so many things, but as i'm sure you see, the members over there have a more specific knowledge base.

 

I'm talking about how the round chambers- when stripped from the mag, the bullet typically bounces off the ramp and into the chamber when it rebounds off the hood.
Roll crimping would help eliminate the minimal amount of "digging in" that sometimes happens with hollow points, slowing down the chambering process , possibly to the point of failure. Just guessing here. The proof would be in the pudding. I imagine that headspacing wouldn't be much of an issue in a shotshell, since the rim of the case is stopped at the hood relief.

 

The crimp on the very end even though it is a roll crimp does nothing but hold the shot in place it extends past where a normal 45 headspaces because it is longer. It is actually sitting almost in the rifiling where the tip of a bullet would be.

 

Yes sir that is me. I'm getting to the point of researching and trying new stuff as far as reloading goes because I enjoy the hobby. However I try to research and start safely so not to damage my firearms or more importantly myself.