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Old 07-07-2013, 07:36 AM   #1
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Broadhead tuning?

Anybody know anything about this? I shoot 100gr thunderheads and they are nearly 4 inches off from my field tips at 20 yards. My goal is to get them close enough to my field tips that I can practice with my field tips during archery season without having to mess with my sights.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:41 PM   #2
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need more info.

shooting a righty bow?
length of arrows?
spine of arrows?
Draw weight of arrows?

4" off? left or right of field tips?

if your arrows are correct for your bow, and you shoot a righty bow, and your arrows are hitting right..move your rest left.

we need more info friend. my bow was hell to broadhead tune.
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Old 07-07-2013, 03:02 PM   #3
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You more less want your fletches aligned with your broad heads. It usually is almost impossible to get them to shoot POI w/field tips. I used to just buy broad heads that had practice blades to use until hunt time. The reason broadheads shoot off is because the insert and the arrow shaft are not square with one another as well as the broadhead not square with insert. This doesnt effect field tips much. If you have a broadhead tuner you would file the insert square on the end till the head rotates true. Oh and you do not want to adjust your rest to move POI. That means your taking your bow out of tune. That will cause the back of your arrow to kick and accuracy will go bye bye altogether. You have to tune broadheads where they screw into the arrow insert. Once your bow is paper tuned dont touch the rest. Any archery shop can tune your arrows and broadheads for you. You also want to make sure the arrow spine weight is in the same poundage range as your bow. Low spine weight makes speed but affects accuracy.
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Old 07-07-2013, 03:38 PM   #4
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Is the 4" low, high, left or right? Don't try tuning to the broadheads by adjusting your rest or the bow. If you move anything then move the sight to compensate for the 4".
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:25 PM   #5
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i respectfully disagree with the two above.

Taco Tx is correct. i am assuming all your arrows are squared, and consistent. and you are not getting fletching contact. and your arrows are spined correctly for your bow, and your bow is correctly tuned to spec.

here:

my broadheads (i shoot montecs and slick trick magnums) hit with my fieldtips out to 60 yards. any diff gets washed out by my suspect shooting ability.

i start all new bows by using the modified french tuning method. it is a system of moving your sight AND rest at two distances to get the arrows to hit the same. essentially it helps you find the perfect centershot for your bow.

then i go straight to broadhead tuning..which is my end game. i only hunt so it is all about the broadhead flight.

i do this:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1606741
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aficianado View Post
need more info.

shooting a righty bow?
length of arrows?
spine of arrows?
Draw weight of arrows?

4" off? left or right of field tips?

if your arrows are correct for your bow, and you shoot a righty bow, and your arrows are hitting right..move your rest left.

we need more info friend. my bow was hell to broadhead tune.
Lefty bow. Shootin 4" at about 7 o'clock from the FP

I want to say 29" arrows but I am not 100% sure. I will be buying new ones next weekend though so it may change.

Spine I don't remember but when I bought them the pro shop helped me match them up so I assume they are right. I can hold 3" groups at 40 with em so they seem to shoot good.

Sorry for the lack of info. we are not allowed to have bows in the barracks to i leave them off base and I cant get to them.

I also think part of my problem is my rest. I used a octane hostage rest and the whiskers would wear down and it was damn near impossible to get my fletchings aligned perfectly so they would rub on it. I have a new QAP drop away I am going to install this weekend.
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aficianado View Post
i respectfully disagree with the two above.

Taco Tx is correct. i am assuming all your arrows are squared, and consistent. and you are not getting fletching contact. and your arrows are spined correctly for your bow, and your bow is correctly tuned to spec.

here:

my broadheads (i shoot montecs and slick trick magnums) hit with my fieldtips out to 60 yards. any diff gets washed out by my suspect shooting ability.

i start all new bows by using the modified french tuning method. it is a system of moving your sight AND rest at two distances to get the arrows to hit the same. essentially it helps you find the perfect centershot for your bow.

then i go straight to broadhead tuning..which is my end game. i only hunt so it is all about the broadhead flight.

i do this:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1606741
That is actually the thread that got me thinking about it last year but I was already into archery season with my BH shooting where I needed them and didn't want to mess with it at that point. Im just tryin to get a head start on the season this year.
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:29 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by LocoTaco View Post
Is the 4" low, high, left or right? Don't try tuning to the broadheads by adjusting your rest or the bow. If you move anything then move the sight to compensate for the 4".
if he moves his sight to make the broadheads hit correctly at 20 yards..then the error will be greater the further you go out..your sight pins will not be straight down..you will have to gap them to the right like this:"\"

at 60 yards he will be even further to the right.

on my bow, most of the left/right errors went away when i got my nock height correct. i got my arrow to go thru the berger hole perfectly, and set my nock 1/4" high. i only had to move my rest out a tiny bit..my centershot is now at 13/16th.

all i have learned is about to go out the window when i get a double cam bow.
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:33 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by takern View Post
That is actually the thread that got me thinking about it last year but I was already into archery season with my BH shooting where I needed them and didn't want to mess with it at that point. Im just tryin to get a head start on the season this year.
smart!! the dumbest thing i ever did was to sell my mathews Switchback XT. that thing would shoot any arrow, any broadhead perfectly with my fieldtips. i could shoot arrows without fletching, mixed broadhead weights..etc. it has "magic". i get the bow perfectly spec tuned and just screwed on a broadhead..and whamo!

why i sold that bow is beyond me. argh!!! my current bow, i named "drunken sparrow" it could shoot a broadhead around a corner when i first got it.

i worked it out, with super over spined arrows. cost me some money to find the solution.

good luck buddy. nontypical255 is the man to talk to.
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aficianado View Post
i respectfully disagree with the two above.

Taco Tx is correct. i am assuming all your arrows are squared, and consistent. and you are not getting fletching contact. and your arrows are spined correctly for your bow, and your bow is correctly tuned to spec.

here:

my broadheads (i shoot montecs and slick trick magnums) hit with my fieldtips out to 60 yards. any diff gets washed out by my suspect shooting ability.

i start all new bows by using the modified french tuning method. it is a system of moving your sight AND rest at two distances to get the arrows to hit the same. essentially it helps you find the perfect centershot for your bow.

then i go straight to broadhead tuning..which is my end game. i only hunt so it is all about the broadhead flight.

i do this:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1606741
What I am getting from this is after you have paper tuned and sighted in your bow you shoot a group of FP then a group of BH. Move your rest until your FP and BH shoot the same or close to the same. then move your sight to bring your group center mass
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:35 PM   #11
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T..good luck this hunting season.

just this morning i had to find my bow. my wife hid it in my closet. took it out, dusted it off and went to the range. holy chit, i SUCKED!! arrows all over the place. like lighting, i never hit the same place twice. (good name for a bad bow, "lightning")

in the end, i got alot better. hard to spend time exercising to hunt AND shooting to hunt.

my deer opener is aug 17th..you?
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takern View Post
What I am getting from this is after you have paper tuned and sighted in your bow you shoot a group of FP then a group of BH. Move your rest until your FP and BH shoot the same or close to the same. then move your sight to bring your group center mass
yes^^. minor movements of the rest affect the FT arrows very little (on my bow), but the BH arrows are affected more. i didnt need to eff with the sight that much.

i think the goal is to get the broadhead "pointed" properly so it "planes" off the bow predictably..I think!! the shaft bends alot when the string pushes on it, so your spine needs to be correct.
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:38 PM   #13
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shit not till oct 5. lucky. Squirrel comes in sept 4 though so i might try and stick a few with the bow for some practice during that month.

I went out two weeks ago and I couldnt shoot a group but this weekend i was gettin back to sub 6" groups at 40. a few more weeks and I should be able to get back to my normal 3" comfort level. It sucks only being able to shoot on weekends workin such long days
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:40 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by aficianado View Post
yes^^. minor movements of the rest affect the FT arrows very little (on my bow), but the BH arrows are affected more. i didnt need to eff with the sight that much.

i think the goal is to get the broadhead "pointed" properly so it "planes" off the bow predictably..I think!! the shaft bends alot when the string pushes on it, so your spine needs to be correct.
I think part of it too is the broadhead has an extra set of "fins" on it, especially with the fixed blades so any torquing off the fletchings or not being perfectly squared off the nock will affect it significantly more.

Like i said, hopefully this new rest will alleviate some of my problems and i can go from there
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:42 PM   #15
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simple tip on how to find out if your arrows are underspined.

on my mathews, a turn out of the limb screws = 2lbs of draw weight. my instructions say i cant take out 5 turns safely, so i can turn my 70lb bow down to 60.

i kept getting broadhead hitting to the right. i turned my bow down 5 turns, and the arrows got super close!! i knew right there i needed stiffer arrows. i had .340 spine, and got .300" spine. which were overspined. i added weights up front which makes the arrow behave less "spiny" and all was well in my world.

effen VOODOO, broadhead tuning..VOODOO!
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aficianado View Post
simple tip on how to find out if your arrows are underspined.

on my mathews, a turn out of the limb screws = 2lbs of draw weight. my instructions say i cant take out 5 turns safely, so i can turn my 70lb bow down to 60.

i kept getting broadhead hitting to the right. i turned my bow down 5 turns, and the arrows got super close!! i knew right there i needed stiffer arrows. i had .340 spine, and got .300" spine. which were overspined. i added weights up front which makes the arrow behave less "spiny" and all was well in my world.

effen VOODOO, broadhead tuning..VOODOO!
That makes a lot of freakin sense. I have my bow maxed out at 60. I guess the pro shop has a lot of questions comin their way come saturday. Its a bit of a drive but they have never been anything but helpful to me and have always taken the time to make sure I get what I need.
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:19 PM   #17
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You may just try a shorter more streamlined broadhead. Or even an expandable. I always used blazer vanes with a slight helical twist. Either way i would always use a broadhead that utilizes replacable blades especially if your practicing with them a lot. I dont shoot a bow anymore at all but you always want new razor sharp blades when entering the field. It doesnt sound all that bad to me really though. I used to just sigh in right before season with broadheads, put new blades on hunt. Never shot much that time of year anyhow with field points.
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:41 PM   #18
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You may just try a shorter more streamlined broadhead. Or even an expandable. I always used blazer vanes with a slight helical twist. Either way i would always use a broadhead that utilizes replacable blades especially if your practicing with them a lot. I dont shoot a bow anymore at all but you always want new razor sharp blades when entering the field. It doesnt sound all that bad to me really though. I used to just sigh in right before season with broadheads, put new blades on hunt. Never shot much that time of year anyhow with field points.
but thunderheads are cheap. and they kill deer pretty good. I have two broadheads that are all dull and shot up that I use to sight in with though. all the others are fresh and sharp
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:24 PM   #19
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Yea the problem is the seat on different heads may be just a bit diiferent from head to head so getting everything is tune then screwing on a completely head doesnt mean it will fly the same as the previous. I always used to numbe my arrows with the one that hit dead nuts being my go to arrow. Like i said a archery shop can square your inserts for you then it shouldnt be an issue. Archery is expensive and something always needs work. When it comes to harvesting an animal with a bow everything has to be perfect. That way there is no excuse. Its all you! Good luck this season.
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:51 AM   #20
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i have a tool made by G5 to square inserts. works great.

but now i get my arrows built by a pro, and he includes it in his service.

never shoot a broadhead arrow without spin testing it first. ever. long shaft heads like my grim reapers bend the slightest amount after a shot. i spin them after every shot. they dont last long anyways.
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