First Hunting Bow Suggestions?

Hey guys!

I have wanted to get into hunting for some time. Ideally this is going to be used for elk hunting in Wyoming. I haven't hunted elk before or any big game for that matter. Mostly because I grew up in a household that didn't hunt. I have tried to get friends to take me out to show me the ropes but something always comes up. I recently started a new summer job and for down time the supervisor likes to shoot his bow.

I decided it's time to get started. We all have to learn sometime and jumping into it has always worked for me. I waited a long time for someone to help me learn how to fly fish. Eventually I bought a rod and reel and jumped into it. Now I am teaching my friends haha! I plan to do the same here.

I am not sure what goes into determining fitment but I do know it has to be left handed. I have seen a sign for an archery club here, would that be a good place to start?

The biggest thing is that I don't want to drop 1k on a bow if I don't have to.

 

Yes, the club would be a great place to start. Most archers love to help out new guys/gals. Don't be afraid of nice used stuff for half the price. Also, don't let ANYONE tell you that brand X is the "best" bow brand out there. The best is the one that fits you, feels right in your hands, and you can shoot well. There a lot of very nice bows on the market these days. Shoot as many as you can. Visit any true pro shops in your area.

 

Find a good local shop. There is so many variables such as brace height and axle height. Compound or single cam. I like single cam as they tend to be quieter and a 8" brace. As you get closer to the magic number around 7, they become more "twitchy" and harder to control for a new shooter. It is related to the time the arrow is in contact w the string through the whole firing process. Shorter brace means more time and more "power" but more time for poor form to effect your shot.

Just don't go crazy on poundage meaning draw lbs. yeah it's sounds cool to say you have a 90#draw but all you'll do is tear your shoulder up. 60-70 is more than enough to take down an elk. Your not going after an elephant or a rhino.

Make sure it fits and your comfortable. Just because you measure out at say 26.5" of draw, maybe 26 feels more natural.

I've been measured three time w different methods all three yielding different numbers.

Best of luck. It's addictive.

 

I am assuming shops allow you to shoot the bows then? I have friends with bows that would happily let me shoot theirs but I am the oddball leftie. I would hate to show up to a shop with zero experience and ask to shoot.

 

No, just tell them that. If the shop is worth doing business with, they will walk you through the whole process. BTW, the above post is full of great info also.

 

gah..you live in Wyoming..do it!!

now being a lefty, it will be a lie saying it will be easy. i dont know about your hood, but my local bowshops dont have the money to buy a big inventory. you typically buy sight unseen. sucks..being lefty will be a challenge.

now ballpark..measure your wingspan and divide by 2.5 and get inches..that will be your jumping off point for your drawlength.

you are jumping in at a great time. there are so many great bows. they all seem to kick ass. every bow will have the occasional turd. trust me on this.

if you are buying new..be up front. get the bowshop to set the bow up for you and then get to to shoot a clean hole thru paper. if it will do that, it will be relatively easy to tune to shoot a broadhead. if the hole sucks, be prepared to fight it. i think its your money, get one that is easy.

if you are big and strong..a 70 lb bow shouldnt be a big deal. it is more important that the bow fits.

OH! make damn sure you are left eye dominant if you are buying a lefty bow.

 

Thanks guys! I got this guy down to $300. That was before I looked into the reviews. Seems like people really love this bow. Is $300 a fair price? Seems like a good deal to me with the case and accessories?

http://wyoming.craigslist.org/spo/4926000662.html

 

Just my input here, but why does it have to be a left-handed bow? I ask because I am left handed, but when I went to the bow shop here in town the guy who does all of their archery work suggested I just try shooting with a regular bow. Now when I used to shoot, I would shoot pistol and rifle left-handed. I couldn't shoot right handed to save the world. However I was able to draw and shoot a right handed compound bow with ease, and a short 2 months later I am holding steady with 12 arrows in a 4 inch circle at 30 yards. Something to consider at least. I mean it wouldn't hurt to go to the archery shop and draw back a few right handed compounds.

 

Pretty sure it all has to do with the sight? I am left eye dominant and after holding bows in the pawn shops here it just felt natural with the left handed.

I don't have an archery shop nearby. Closest is 45 minutes . However, where the bow I posted is, there are shops that I can stop into before getting that bow to ask questions.

 

Well, just talked to my uncle. He said he can get me a bowtech fuel with all the goodies shipped to me for $400. I think I am going to go with that for the lifetime warranty. Seems to get good reviews too.

 

Not familiar with that model, but Bowtech over all is a great brand.

 

Bowtech is a good brand for sure. I wasnt sure if you were left eye dominant or not. I am left eye dominant, but was easily able to train myself in just a couple of days to shoot right hand, right eye. It makes it a TON easier to get bows and accessories. Just thought I would throw in my two cents.

 

Following post. Thank to those who have contributed. Like the OP I'm in the market also.

 

Mathews are great bows. Same plain as a hoyt imo

 

Let me know what you end up getting.

Just got off the phone with my uncles friend Cory. He owns XXX Archery in Oregon. Great guy to talk with and I think I am going to spend more money and get a PSE Drive. He quoted me $650 for low end accessories and ~$850 for nicer accessories. I am likely to spend the extra money and get the nicer accessories. He explained the differences and how they will be transferred bow to bow so it's worth doing it right the first time.

He is going to start building it up for me tonight and send me some pictures in a bit. I am STOKED.

 

Sounds like you're all set. You'll be hooked.

I'm a lefty too and trying to sell my older pse for a newer bow and it's a pain to find anyone to take it.

 

Sounds like you're all set. You'll be hooked.

I'm a lefty too and trying to sell my older pse for a newer bow and it's a pain to find anyone to take it.

 

I am guessing that's why I could talk the guy on craigslist as easy. There was one at the pawn shop and it's been there for a few years . The owner would have practically given it to me but it was to small and from 2001.

I should have an easier time selling this bow as it will be newer and adjustable so it will be good for a teenager transitioning from a starter bow to something more intermediate.

Have you tried getting on bow hunting forums? Might have better luck selling there.

 

If your looking for strictly hunting bow I would get the lightest and shortest bow you can find especially for elk where you will walk a ton. I use my 3d target bow for hunting and it's 35" axle to axle so it's not as easy to carry through the woods and my bow weighs 6 pounds without the stabilizers and vs my old bow that was around 4.5 pounds, it's a huge difference when you need to carry it a long ways.

 

The drive looks to be at 4.3lbs. I am less concerned about the weight I am packing around than getting into a good bow that will suit me well for a few years. I am unsure how much it will weight with the accessories.

Anyways here is the set up I was texted.

PSE Drive - Camo, left handed.
Octane deadlock lite
Black Gold Rush 5 point sight
Ultrarest HDX
Scott Mongose XT release.

I am getting a deal on it but without the deal total cost would be $885 + shipping.