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Old 05-08-2013, 04:24 PM   #1
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Oahu Auto A/C shops?

Does anyone have a quality and reputable AC shop they recommend here on island? My truck doesn't seem to be blowing as cold as it used to so I took it into a shop here in Kapolei today to have them look at it. Talking with the mechanic, all started out fine but then the compressor would cycle off and on faster than normal. We checked the charge on the system an it was good. He said it may be electrical. Wanted to get a second opinion from a specialist since I took it to a general mech, he was ASE certified tho, not sure how much weight that cert carries. Thanks for the info and help in advance.
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:37 PM   #2
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to my knowledge, ASE = certified, but the certs are broken up into the different systems, i.e. brakes&steering, trans, engine, ac, electrical.

hope it's not the unit under the dash or the compressor..

maybe check the electrical connections for dirt?
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:43 PM   #3
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I sprayed the high pressure switch, there is only one more switch at the compressor. Everything else is behind the dash. I am wondering if the pressure switch isn't working properly... it is kicking off the compressor, but maybe at the wrong pressure. Not sure how to check tho.
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:28 AM   #4
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You can try Hawaii Mobile Air in Mapunapuna. You can give them a call and talk to Gilbert. Tell him Rod sent or referred you. They are old school shop very knowledgeable and been in the automotive a/c business for awhile. There prices are steep but still cheaper then going to the dealer. Maybe you can at least get an estimate and see whats your best options. Another place would be Chik's Auto Air and Alignment. Ask for Clint. Honestly I hate to diagnose a problem without physically inspecting the vehicle but sounds like your low on refrigerant. This causing your compressor to cycle on and off more frequent. Hope this helps
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:07 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PupuleUlua View Post
You can try Hawaii Mobile Air in Mapunapuna. You can give them a call and talk to Gilbert. Tell him Rod sent or referred you. They are old school shop very knowledgeable and been in the automotive a/c business for awhile. There prices are steep but still cheaper then going to the dealer. Maybe you can at least get an estimate and see whats your best options. Another place would be Chik's Auto Air and Alignment. Ask for Clint. Honestly I hate to diagnose a problem without physically inspecting the vehicle but sounds like your low on refrigerant. This causing your compressor to cycle on and off more frequent. Hope this helps
Sounds about right...hope it's not your evap core...
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:49 AM   #6
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We threw a little more refrigerant in it before i left the shop. Now it feels like it isn't as cold as it was before i went in. Tomorrow when i get to work, we are going to use the machine there to put a vac on it and then recharge the system. If that doesn't work, ill take it in to a shop and see what they say. I also have a freon sniffer at work that ill give a try too to see if there might be a slight leak. Other than that, im at the mercy of someone else.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:26 AM   #7
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it sounds like low refrigerant are you sure they checked how much is in the system? dont use those tiny cans at walmart either thats now the real amount.

if its turning off and on the system is working properly but you may have a leak somewhere typically on the toyotas they are either at the condenser up front prone to flying rocks etc can easily dig a crack in the condenser fins. but more common problem is found in the Evaporator thats located inside your dash ($$$$)
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:24 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xurusaibobx View Post
it sounds like low refrigerant are you sure they checked how much is in the system? dont use those tiny cans at walmart either thats now the real amount.

if its turning off and on the system is working properly but you may have a leak somewhere typically on the toyotas they are either at the condenser up front prone to flying rocks etc can easily dig a crack in the condenser fins. but more common problem is found in the Evaporator thats located inside your dash ($$$$)
I think the single cans from Walmart or anywhere else is fine as long as they don't have a sealer included. There prone to cause more harm then improve the a/c system(clog expansion valve, drier and even cause a seized compressor). One thing I'm upset that toyota didn't include in our trucks is an electric condensor fan. I think that helps a lot in our hot climate in stop an go traffic. A/C system is tied in close with your cooling system. If your engine is running hot there is no proper heat exchange from your A/C system causing high pressure leading to leaks.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:57 PM   #9
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I am not 100% they checked the volume in the system. Said they did... but i have no way to verify. I did put our "sniffer" up to my whole system at work to check for leaks, didn't find any. Next week, i am going to get someone to hook up our AC service cart to the truck to put a vacuum on it then fill'er up. If that doens't fix anything, guess ill take it in after that. Not a huge fan of those cans at walmart. Not sure why, just seem skeptical.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PupuleUlua View Post
I think the single cans from Walmart or anywhere else is fine as long as they don't have a sealer included. There prone to cause more harm then improve the a/c system(clog expansion valve, drier and even cause a seized compressor). One thing I'm upset that toyota didn't include in our trucks is an electric condensor fan. I think that helps a lot in our hot climate in stop an go traffic. A/C system is tied in close with your cooling system. If your engine is running hot there is no proper heat exchange from your A/C system causing high pressure leading to leaks.
Given the amount of time air conditioning has been installed on vehicles I'm pretty confident in the science behind figuring out heat transfer even if the vehicle is in stop and go traffic, plus you still have a fan pulling air across the condenser BEFORE the radiator so you're going to remove heat from refrigerant before the coolant. You'd be surprised at how well A/C systems can adapt to still transfer heat between spaces up until the condensing temp and ambient are equalized. Not as efficient but it will still go.

On a small system, such as automotive, a few ounces over or under will cause poor system function. Definitely get it charged via machine to get the proper amount in the system. The driven shaft of external driven compressors is also a VERY common spot to have a slow leak. I've had a few on vehicle condensors but never seen an evap go bad.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nirvana View Post
I've had a few on vehicle condensors but never seen an evap go bad.
I do a 4-5 evap cores a month here on the big island...
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by elsenordave View Post
I do a 4-5 evap cores a month here on the big island...
True back in the day when I wrenched for an specialized a/c shop we changed 10 evaporator cores to 1 condensor(not saying it's 100% evaporator core). Engineer's get paid to make repairs difficult for the average mechanic so they hope consumers return to the dealerships. Have you done any evaps on 2nd gen taco Dave? Heard it's complete dash board removal or have you guys found a cheat to slacking dash method? Sorry been out of the wrenching for about 8 years and hopefully not planning to return :/
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:50 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by PupuleUlua View Post
True back in the day when I wrenched for an specialized a/c shop we changed 10 evaporator cores to 1 condensor(not saying it's 100% evaporator core). Engineer's get paid to make repairs difficult for the average mechanic so they hope consumers return to the dealerships. Have you done any evaps on 2nd gen taco Dave? Heard it's complete dash board removal or have you guys found a cheat to slacking dash method? Sorry been out of the wrenching for about 8 years and hopefully not planning to return :/
Gotta hemo dash... personally I think it the VOG...sulphur dioxide eats the cores...mostly 4runners but 3-4 2ndgen..
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:53 AM   #14
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Interesting, so more of a localized issue than a general automotive industry problem? I hear you about engineers. I spent many a long day cursing every engineer I could. Starter on a Ford Contour...don't get me started. Only evaps I've replaced are on our boats and that was a failed fan motor and a clogged TXV.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:41 PM   #15
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We on the big island do more Evaps then Servco does from my understanding...I actually stock the parts to do it...it's not just Toyota...we do Chevy to and I replaced a handful as well..;
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:55 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nirvana View Post
Interesting, so more of a localized issue than a general automotive industry problem? I hear you about engineers. I spent many a long day cursing every engineer I could. Starter on a Ford Contour...don't get me started. Only evaps I've replaced are on our boats and that was a failed fan motor and a clogged TXV.
Not to sure if your work is on the commercial side instead of standard automotive? A lot of commercial side A/C has copper instead of aluminum evaporator cores. Not to say they don't leak but they are a lot stronger. That I can see replacing more condensors to evaps but I don't think they are efficient as to performance.
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:20 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PupuleUlua View Post
Not to sure if your work is on the commercial side instead of standard automotive? A lot of commercial side A/C has copper instead of aluminum evaporator cores. Not to say they don't leak but they are a lot stronger. That I can see replacing more condensors to evaps but I don't think they are efficient as to performance.

Automotive in my formative years, military now. Copper tubing but same aluminum evaporators in a variety of configurations. The Vog makes sense I just never would have guessed it to be that big of an issue with mechanical parts.

Our problem with evaporators is water cooled systems when people decide to let water blow through unrestricted and it erodes the tubes a lot faster than if they let the machinery work the way it's designed.

Dylan-Did you ever get your A/C figured out?
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:22 AM   #18
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the main reason why a lot of evap cores go bad in most automotive vehicles are because the evap drain spout/tube gets clogged up by dust/dirt/mold which in return causes water to backup and settle at the base of the evap causing it to rust. all it takes is a one tiny pin hole to cause major headaches. plus nobody knows if the evap box is blocked until they hear what sounds like water slushing back and forth inside their car and also wet carpet under the pass. seat

most AC shops if they try to hunt for a leak and cant find anything under the hood they almost always fault the evap. why because next to the compressor thats the most expensive part to replace.


same here ive done a handful 4runners not sure why but the v8 models are always going bad or thats why ive had to work on. your lucky toyota dashes arent that bad to remove. trying doing chrysler or mazdas ( mazda 3 the fricken front doors have to be removed in order to remove the dash
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nirvana View Post
Automotive in my formative years, military now. Copper tubing but same aluminum evaporators in a variety of configurations. The Vog makes sense I just never would have guessed it to be that big of an issue with mechanical parts.

Our problem with evaporators is water cooled systems when people decide to let water blow through unrestricted and it erodes the tubes a lot faster than if they let the machinery work the way it's designed.

Dylan-Did you ever get your A/C figured out?
Vog contains Sulphur dioxide which is attracted to moisture.. Evap cores are a great source of moisture
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