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fog light relay help

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Old 05-29-2011, 10:06 AM   #1
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fog light relay help

i went ahead and bought the kc daylighters 100w. painted them black then mounted them on the brush guard. the wiring instructions from kc do not show or include a relay in their kit. but i was able to get some info from some people and everyone recomends one. so i went ahead and started wiring. i mounted a switch on the little change draw by your left knee. then ran the wires through the fire wall hooked up everyhting to the relay, flipped the switch and the lights turned on. normally that would be a good thing except the 30a fuse off the 30 prong on the relay started to get hot and look like it was about to start melting. i hooked the power for my switch and the power for the relay both off the posative side of the battery. is it possible that that could be my problem. because on the wiring diagram i found online they say to run the power for the relay to the hi low for the hi-beams. im new to wiring so if you think you know what i did wrong and you can explain it, please break it down so a moron could understand it. thanks.
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:39 AM   #2
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What amperage is your relay rated at?

If I'm understanding you've got two 100 watt lamps going through the relay to the battery which comes out to around 17 amps, I'd use at least a 30 amp relay for longevity and surge when you first turn you lights on. I've got several relays and they're rated at 40 amps so I'm thinking you've got a cheap fuse holder that's rated at maybe 10 amps.
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:04 AM   #3
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the relay is rated for 30amps. is there a problem with both powers being hooked up to the battery? your saying i bought a cheap relay. i guess it is possible i, got it from pep boys as a universal kit. what should i put in instead of what i got?
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:18 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Botzitaliano View Post
the relay is rated for 30amps. is there a problem with both powers being hooked up to the battery? your saying i bought a cheap relay. i guess it is possible i, got it from pep boys as a universal kit. what should i put in instead of what i got?
No, your relay is probably good and I'm guessing it's a fuse holder that's underrated.
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:41 AM   #5
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What it sounds like to me is that the relay provided with the kit is to open the circuit when your lights are not on to prevent you from leaving them on when you leave your truck parked. The coil voltage on the relay as well as the switch should be completely separate from the load of the lights, usually pulled from the control voltage of one of your other lighting systems to prevent you from leaving your lights on. From the way your describing it I'm not so sure thats the case, but it's hard to understand from what you're saying. If the fuse came with the kit, and you're melting it, it's probably user error.
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:48 AM   #6
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I have the Hella 500 Black Magics mounted on my new bumper and they're running through my stock relay from my Fogs and it works great...but mine 55w
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:38 PM   #7
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i was wrong the relay is rated at 30amps but the fuse is only 15amps i had a buddy come down and give me a hand, and he hooked one power from the relay to the battery and the power from the switch to something in the fuse box that only gets power when the car is on. but we still hasd the problem of the fuse getting hot and starting to melt the casing that it is in. the fuse is one of those cylinder ones if that matters. but tomorrow i am going to try to get a 30amp fuse and put it in and see what happens. do you think that that 15amp fuse is unsufficient for my lights? one of my other concerns is why isnt the fuse tripping? if it gets hot enough to where the plastic around it is starting to melt imo the fuse should blow. is it possbile i need a heavy duty relay? im really starting to get confused now since my buddy who knows wiring had the same problem as me hopefully the new fuse works.
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Old 05-31-2011, 08:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryde09 View Post
x2...if you're melting plastic, then the component is not designed to handle the load. Check out my electrical thread for more info (link in signature)...
Yep, get rid of that fuse holder and get a better one that will handle the load. If it's a glass fuse, that's ancient technology as far as cars go anyway. NAPA should have a mini blade style to match the rest of your fuses.

Don't upsize the fuse. The fuse should be sized to protect the wiring, go too large and the wire will burn before the fuse blows. The reason it hasn't blown yet is because you aren't pulling more than the fuse is rated for. You're just pulling more power than the fuse holder can handle. It's probably defective, not necessarily under rated for the kit.
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Old 06-01-2011, 06:41 PM   #11
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Ok hopefully sometime this week I can go pick one of those new fuse holders up. Thank you all for all your help, y'all were very helpful. When i get it all done, I'll make another post to let you know how I made out
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