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Just installed the Spyder Projector/LED kit on my 2011

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Old 10-02-2011, 02:28 PM   #1
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Just installed the Spyder Projector/LED kit on my 2011

I was plesantly surprised with the build quality given I picked these up on Amazon for $189 (w/ free shipping). The kit also included brighter regular & high beam Halo bulbs. Now that I have projectors I plan to upgrade to a Xenon 6000K H4 kit soon.

*EDIT* The Spyder kit uses H1 in the projectors, not H4 like the OEM headlamps. This also explains why they ship w/ Halo bulbs included.

Just installed the Spyder Projector/LED kit on my 2011-screen-shot-2011-10-02-5.23.14-pm.jpg

Updated - HID 5000K Lows, HID 4300K Fogs:

Just installed the Spyder Projector/LED kit on my 2011-lights.jpg
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Old 10-03-2011, 04:11 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh256 View Post
I was plesantly surprised with the build quality given I picked these up on Amazon for $189 (w/ free shipping). The kit also included brighter regular & high beam Halo bulbs. Now that I have projectors I plan to upgrade to a Xenon 6000K H4 kit soon.

Attachment 119148
We've got the same headlights . What wire combo did you do on yours? (what setting is each bulb on)
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Old 10-03-2011, 06:47 AM   #3
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I wired the LEDs into the parking/signal leads so they're on in both lighting positions "parking lights" and "headlights" (and off when I turn lights off.. which I rarely do).

Stock projector aim is perfect I believe.. In traffic when I'm stopped behind cars the beam tops out about 1" below the top/edge of most car/sedan's trunks so I'm not blasting any oncoming drivers nor hitting any rear view mirrors.
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Old 10-03-2011, 06:50 AM   #4
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Hey I have the same lights dose your hi beam stay on with your low ?? They are great lights I have 10k in mine and I love them
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:06 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh256 View Post
I wired the LEDs into the parking/signal leads so they're on in both lighting positions "parking lights" and "headlights" (and off when I turn lights off.. which I rarely do). I think Spyder's relocation of the Toyota/OEM innermost parking/signal light to the otter edge makes a lot more sense too.

Stock projector aim is perfect I believe.. In traffic when I'm stopped behind cars the beam tops out about 1" below the top/edge of most car/sedan's trunks so I'm not blasting any oncoming drivers nor hitting any rear view mirrors.
I find they're aimed at the right spot as well. However, low beams (I've got the upgraded HID kit also) sucks when doing night driving on a highway/interstate in bad weather. They also take a while to fully brighten up and I've almost took the ditch or went straight for a rock cut in a curb a couple times because of it.
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Old 10-03-2011, 12:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfpack_5150 View Post
Unless u have 10000K, then that's operator error and not the lights themselves.

Best light range is 4300-6000K

The higher the kelvin, the bluer......the bluer, the worse for bad weather
Once they are in full brightness it's fine, as you know HID's take a few seconds to fully light up. When split seconds are involved I don't care if you're Travis Pastrana or Ken Block you'll be on the same level as me. Mine are 6000K
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:32 PM   #7
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When I added my fog light i wired them so they stay on all the time. Witch helpd when driving you dont see the warm up time for the high beams as much, plus I went with the 55w bulbs.
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Old 11-15-2011, 09:17 AM   #10
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No, you have to use H1 after converting from the OEM to Spyder headlight/enclosure
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh256 View Post
No, you have to use H1 after converting from the OEM to Spyder headlight/enclosure
Could you help me please? I just bought these headlights and have no idea what to do with the 3 pin connector running to the low beams. I want to change them out to HID's but am unsure what bulb size to use and if I can just swap them out with the awkwardly "screwed" in bulb now. Thanks
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:06 PM   #12
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Ya sure. You will need to use an H1 HID kit which is *not* screwed in. EG. the bulb in the Spyder low-beam socket is an H1 and is held in place by a retaining clip.

The low-beam bulb in the OEM assembly was an H4 I believe.. anyhow that's not relevant.

From the harness you are describing the blue wire is the lows, red is the highs and the blacks are the grounds.

Respectively you will cut the blue/black (lows) which ran to the Spyder's existing H1 bulb and rewire those directly into the ballast:

Just installed the Spyder Projector/LED kit on my 2011-sypder-ballast.jpg





On the new H1 bulb I recommend you cut its red/black wires so that you can feed them through the rubber cover then shorten and reconnect (I used heat shrink afterwards):

Just installed the Spyder Projector/LED kit on my 2011-spyder-h1-bulb.jpg
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09_tacoma View Post
I find they're aimed at the right spot as well. However, low beams (I've got the upgraded HID kit also) sucks when doing night driving on a highway/interstate in bad weather. They also take a while to fully brighten up and I've almost took the ditch or went straight for a rock cut in a curb a couple times because of it.
If your bulbs take a while to heat up replace your ballasts.. my Slim ballasts on the fogs are like that, went with full size ballasts for the lows and they're instantly bright..
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh256 View Post
If your bulbs take a while to heat up replace your ballasts.. my Slim ballasts on the fogs are like that, went with full size ballasts for the lows and they're instantly bright..
I'm going to agree with Josh256 here. Just got done installing Spyder projectors on my 2000 Tacoma with full size ballasts and it takes less than a second or two for them to come to full bright.
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