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My 50W FX-R Retrofit Build

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Old 11-20-2011, 10:09 PM   #41
displaced viking living in new jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AsianAnts View Post
i personally would cut the reflector bowl like the following pics so you can fit the solenoid and not have to make a bigger hole!




i know its crooked, but those pics are from a while back..... now they are more clean and round and more even
this^ and i don't like using screws to mount any projector personally buy a 5 gallon buckets worth of jb weld and your golden it would be better than the screws imo
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:09 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AsianAnts View Post
rubber boot. popped it inside out and starting cutting along the 4 notches.
Thanks. I ended up doing just this and it seems to be working.

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Originally Posted by stunt man hans View Post
300 degrees is to hot for the headlight you will weaken the rear of the housing ie the gray plastic for sure making it brittle.

i hope this was a typo you probably should have used a heat gun thats how i did all of mine.
It wasn't a typo. Every page I had seen for HID retros mentioned turning the oven to 300*, letting it come to temp, then turning it off and lputting the headlights in for 7 minutes. Honestly, if they were any cooler I wouldn't have been able to pull them apart. This only had the housings hot enough to work with for 2 minutes.

The housing are hot when they come out of the oven, but I can still handle it bare handed.

Be careful with heatguns, they can get much hotter than a lot of people realize. Like 1800 degrees.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stunt man hans View Post
this^ and i don't like using screws to mount any projector personally buy a 5 gallon buckets worth of jb weld and your golden it would be better than the screws imo
Yeah, the screws were a PITA, however, it let me do test fits, make small adjustments, and move the projectors to get ready for the 5 gallons of JB weld.


I just put 600 miles highway driving in the rain yesterday and they didn't seems to leak, and more importantly worked the whole way.

Overall, this projector mod was a disaster. When TRS sent the replacement it was a different model (vers 1 vs 2) and a different colored ballast. The new projector required a bigger hold, the holes in teh reflector bowl didn't line up..a disaster. I should have returned the new projector to TRS and had them send the right one, but I needed to drive 600 miles ASAP.

I will get some finished results pictures up next week when I get back from the trim.
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:52 PM   #44
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I'm glad someone else is having a bitch of a time with this. I thought I was the only one!! To the OP -looking forward to seeing your progress

Also with the stripped plastic screw anchors, are you adjusting the screws with a drill instead of by hand?
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:14 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinL View Post
I'm glad someone else is having a bitch of a time with this. I thought I was the only one!! To the OP -looking forward to seeing your progress

Also with the stripped plastic screw anchors, are you adjusting the screws with a drill instead of by hand?
I wasn't adjusting them with the drill, but disassembled them with a drill. I was too impatient to use a screw driver for 30 minutes...

Live and learn!
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:26 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viperstd View Post
Thanks. I ended up doing just this and it seems to be working.



It wasn't a typo. Every page I had seen for HID retros mentioned turning the oven to 300*, letting it come to temp, then turning it off and lputting the headlights in for 7 minutes. Honestly, if they were any cooler I wouldn't have been able to pull them apart. This only had the housings hot enough to work with for 2 minutes.

The housing are hot when they come out of the oven, but I can still handle it bare handed.

Be careful with heatguns, they can get much hotter than a lot of people realize. Like 1800 degrees.



Yeah, the screws were a PITA, however, it let me do test fits, make small adjustments, and move the projectors to get ready for the 5 gallons of JB weld.


I just put 600 miles highway driving in the rain yesterday and they didn't seems to leak, and more importantly worked the whole way.

Overall, this projector mod was a disaster. When TRS sent the replacement it was a different model (vers 1 vs 2) and a different colored ballast. The new projector required a bigger hold, the holes in teh reflector bowl didn't line up..a disaster. I should have returned the new projector to TRS and had them send the right one, but I needed to drive 600 miles ASAP.

I will get some finished results pictures up next week when I get back from the trim.
i was meaning to say for you to use no screws at all. if you mount it directly to the rear of the reflector bowl using epoxy that way the projector mounts further back in the bowl and will give you complete control over the aiming and positioning of the projector it is more secure than the screws.

also the plastic anchors you stripped out blob some epoxy on those as well to drive the screw in you can still adjust your lights but they will be much more resistant to stripping or having any other issues later down the road. if your into off roading your truck that may very well happen due to the extra weight of the projector hanging off of those two plastic anchors.

the heat gun is a better way the lens is a hard plastic and resistant to heat much more so than the rear plastic of the housing the tabs that your grill clip into can become brittle and break that is a fact it happened to me twice once done by a professional and once myself i used aftermarket housings as well but, still that soft gray plastic was not meant to see that type of heat especially for that length of time.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:10 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viperstd View Post
I wasn't adjusting them with the drill, but disassembled them with a drill. I was too impatient to use a screw driver for 30 minutes...

Live and learn!

Same exact mistake I made. After readjusting a hand full of times I noticed I couldn't get the reflector bowl to stay put

I ended up finding some damaged lights for dirt cheap and now I'll be tearing those apart to possibly re-cut new holes in those reflector bowls.
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:32 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinL View Post
Same exact mistake I made. After readjusting a hand full of times I noticed I couldn't get the reflector bowl to stay put

I ended up finding some damaged lights for dirt cheap and now I'll be tearing those apart to possibly re-cut new holes in those reflector bowls.
Filling those adjuster clips with 100% silicon and drilling a small hole in it worked well. The lights adjust fine now and don't seem to bounce. 1500 miles later they are exactly where I left them. I'm not sure that they would take a huge amount of offraoding though.
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:11 PM   #49
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And we labored to produce....





Below the cutoff line:


More color Flicker:


This is rain on the outside. No condensation inside as far as I can tell after 500 miles of driving in the rain.
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:08 PM   #53
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Looks good man nice and level cutoff good work
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:18 PM   #54
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I'll snag some daylight photos tomorrow.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:09 PM   #55
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I'll snag some daylight photos tomorrow.
lies.

Snap some pics man I'm thinking of doing this soon enough.
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:32 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroluxAtom View Post
lies.

Snap some pics man I'm thinking of doing this soon enough.
not lies... I have photos... just never posted them .

I'll see what I can do when I get home from work.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:21 AM   #57
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Can anyone explain to me how to look at the aiming diagram?

Because I been staring at it and don't understand wth I'm looking at lol
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