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Another Mini D2S Retrofit from TRS

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Old 02-01-2012, 04:55 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Dr. Sleep View Post
1 x Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (D2S) (MiniD2SIII) = $375.00
Bulbs New Philips 85122+ D2S
Ballasts 1) Morimoto 3Five 35w
Shrouds Gatling Gun
Wire Harness Relay: H4/9003
Projectors LHD (North American Standard)
Re-sealing Glue Yes please
CCFL Angel Eyes Yes
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $375.00
USPS Priority Mail: $16.74
Coupon TRS34: -$16.74
Total: $375.00

Then like, $2.00 for spray paint.
Nice! Not to bad. + rep thanks.
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:38 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Sleep View Post
1 x Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (D2S) (MiniD2SIII) = $375.00
Bulbs New Philips 85122+ D2S
Ballasts 1) Morimoto 3Five 35w
Shrouds Gatling Gun
Wire Harness Relay: H4/9003
Projectors LHD (North American Standard)
Re-sealing Glue Yes please
CCFL Angel Eyes Yes
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $375.00
USPS Priority Mail: $16.74
Coupon TRS34: -$16.74
Total: $375.00

Then like, $2.00 for spray paint.


VERY NICE!!!

I have a question how did you install the projector and shroud? Screwed in glued in?
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:57 AM   #23
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^^ Thanks man. I'll get some daytime pics on here soon
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Old 02-01-2012, 12:03 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07tacos View Post
VERY NICE!!!

I have a question how did you install the projector and shroud? Screwed in glued in?
The angel eyes are "glued" into back of the shroud. I used JB weld, b/c I knew it would hold up to the heat when I re-baked the headlight housing. some have used silicone "glue"/sealant. However, when you re-bake alot of water can evaporate out of silicone and create problems.

The shroud is held to the projector housing with a "centric" ring -- basically a friction connection. They supply the ring, which snaps on to the back of the shroud -- then the projector fits snugly through the ring.

The whole projector housing is held to the headlight housing via alignment spacers and special nuts . . . it will all make sense when you see all the parts and start the project -- it's like oh , I see how this is all held together.

Only complaint/issue is that the nut is hard to screw tightly to the back of the projector, b/c of clearance issues and the fact that it is not any standard hex nut .. weird special shape . . .no wrench or socket fits it. you can either hand tighten it or use an adjustable wrench . . but to get a good grip you need to remove the reflector bowl from the rest of the housing, which some do anyway.
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Old 02-01-2012, 03:11 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Fractured View Post
Great write up! +rep for that.

The truck looks great too, I would love to see a daytime pic.
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:05 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Sleep View Post
Once aligned: Low beams:

since you are posting this to help others, hope you dont mind if i chime in...

for those referencing this, ALWAYS align the projectors before you seal up the headlights!! the passenger projector in this pic is slightly off, rotated too much in the CW direction. although this kit claims to be PNP, you should always check the rotation before sealing them back up.

also, that 4th bolt plays an important part in headlights, IMHO. its really not that bad (i would always screw this in when testing headlights i modded w/ FX-R projectors, because it does change the output.), done it MANY times!
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:55 PM   #28
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Just an update. . . . . this retrofit has been anything but trouble free.

1st, the passenger side angel eyes ccfl went out . . . I thought it was just an inverter -- easy plug and play swap out . . .NOPE. AFter TRS sent a replacement inverter, that didn't solve the problem. I applied 12V dc directly to the new inverter +/- input and nothing. . . problem is downstream of the inverter . . . the ring itself or the connections to the ring itself. NO WAY i'm replacing that . . . I'd have to pull everything apart and rebake, etc. PITA!!! Angel eyes unplugged and were IMO a waste of time and money.

2nd problem -- HID itself is out on the passenger side . . . . checked all fuses and connections . . .not the problem. So, either the Phillips bulb is bad, or perhaps the ballast is bad. Either way . . . these are parts that should be engineered to last LONGER than 2 months i've had the kit! Holy shit . . . it this is a sign of maintenance to come, I'm definitely going back to hallogen!!!
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:31 PM   #29
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Nice work. How is your seal holding up? In the past I've had issues. I think I now have found the right way to seal them up. And yeah sometimes these things just don't come out right.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:33 PM   #30
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yep, angel eyes crap out all the time. may work for some for a long time, but im always hearing of them crapping out sooner or later.

concerning the HID problem itself...i have rarely seen problems w/ OEM stuff. a denso or matsushita ballast, along w/ OEM phillips D2S bulbs is the way to go! it is very easy to test for what part is the problem

swap bulbs/ballasts til you find which part is giving you the problem.

if bulbs...i am assuming you are using the TRS bulbs? do yourself a favor and pick up some OEM bulbs from either TRS or hidbulbzrus on egay, they are legit (look them up on HIDplanet.com if you have any doubts).

if ballasts...get a warranty replacement. better yet, pick up a set of the OEM matsushita or denso ballasts from TRS, HIDPlanet.com or egay.

using OEM bulbs/ballasts, you should not have any problems. if you do, its the wire harness!!

hope that helps man. people need to realize that OEM costs more for a reason..you cant just plug in a $40 kit and expect it to perform flawlessly for a long while!
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:02 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muy Grande View Post
Nice work. How is your seal holding up? In the past I've had issues. I think I now have found the right way to seal them up. And yeah sometimes these things just don't come out right.
Seals are fine! No moisture whatsoever, even after many direct car wash sprays. I used the black sticky stuff they send with the TRS kit if you order from them (I think it's an option). Worked great!

I wish I could say the same for the rest of the stuff -- angel eye OUT -- not inverter. HID OUT -- Matt @ TRS is sending out a new ballast -- we'll see if that's the problem. Even if it is -- damn -- only 2 months on a ballast that should last many years.
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:05 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yosh2000 View Post
yep, angel eyes crap out all the time. may work for some for a long time, but im always hearing of them crapping out sooner or later.

concerning the HID problem itself...i have rarely seen problems w/ OEM stuff. a denso or matsushita ballast, along w/ OEM phillips D2S bulbs is the way to go! it is very easy to test for what part is the problem

swap bulbs/ballasts til you find which part is giving you the problem.

if bulbs...i am assuming you are using the TRS bulbs? do yourself a favor and pick up some OEM bulbs from either TRS or hidbulbzrus on egay, they are legit (look them up on HIDplanet.com if you have any doubts).

if ballasts...get a warranty replacement. better yet, pick up a set of the OEM matsushita or denso ballasts from TRS, HIDPlanet.com or egay.

using OEM bulbs/ballasts, you should not have any problems. if you do, its the wire harness!!

hope that helps man. people need to realize that OEM costs more for a reason..you cant just plug in a $40 kit and expect it to perform flawlessly for a long while!
Bulbs are the Philips 85122+ D2S bulbs . . . OEM and high quality.

Ballasts are the 35W Morimoto ballasts from TRS. Kit was WAY over $40. More like $340.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:22 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Sleep View Post
HID OUT -- Matt @ TRS is sending out a new ballast -- we'll see if that's the problem. Even if it is -- damn -- only 2 months on a ballast that should last many years.
did you test the ballast that is not working on the other side or on a 12volt source to narrow it down? may be wiring and not the ballast. sometimes things just fail, and unfortunately you were the lucky one this time!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Sleep View Post
Bulbs are the Philips 85122+ D2S bulbs . . . OEM and high quality.

Ballasts are the 35W Morimoto ballasts from TRS. Kit was WAY over $40. More like $340.
that was not aimed at you, but a general statement concerning HID kits (the PNP kind w/ my projectors)...
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:49 AM   #34
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^^ No worries . . . If I had it to do over again, I probably would do a custom HID retrofit, where I can pick any projector I want with whatever bulb and ballast combo I want, etc. I saw your work . . . very nice!
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:55 PM   #35
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Update...the replacement ballast solved the problem with the passenger side hid. Good news is trs warranty and service are excellent. Bad news is a brand new ballast only lasted 2 months.

Also the over-rotated passenger projector was easily fixed by turning the projector assembly slightly counterclockwise. There is a little play in alignment ring.
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:08 PM   #37
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What brand paint is that and where did you pick it up from? Nice lights.
Rustoleum brand . . . Home Depot
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:06 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahshiet View Post
Any pics of how the angel eyes are mounted?
Actually I'm replacing the original angel eyes with TRS's new LED angel eyes this month. The other one's (fluorescent) don't last. One of mine only lasted a couple of months, but the other side is still working. Problem is . . . to fix/replace any angel eye install after it goes bad means removing the headlights, re-baking them to separated the halves, then actually replacing the wiring/angel eyes themselves . . . HUGE PITA. So, if you're going to use angel eyes, get the highest quality LED version you can find . . . not worth it to save a little $$ only to have them fail in a couple of months.

Also, I'll post some pics when I do.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:43 PM   #40
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Hey man, i have a question with the paint u used.
Does the paint hold up to the heat coming from the bulbs?
I read the back of the can saying not to spray it on something that can exceed 200 degrees.
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