First off, I gotta give a huge shout to Paul for putting together a killer kit, with killer service & price point. Also to CableTec for the killer install how-to.
My kit arrived in the mail this morning and having anticipated it, I had all the equipment/tools I needed to install so I charged into it.
10mm Gearwrench (Removal/installation of battery hold down, washer fluid tank, factory grounding points, negative/positive battery terminals)
12mm Socket (Removal/installation of positive battery post nut for add-on accessories)
Flathead screw driver (Removal of plastic clips for radiator shroud)
Industrial Velcro (installed on the bottoms of the relay, ballasts & resistors/inverters?)
Needle nose pliers (Removal/installation of factory clip that holds headlamps in housing)
I followed the instructions listed here: Link
1) I did remove the battery completely to give me more room to mount the ballast/inverter. I would recommend this to expedite the install.
2) I disconnected the washer fluid tank and swiveled it as far out of the way as possible to allow for more room to remove the headlamp. Once you've removed the halogen/installed the HID lamp you can put this back.
3) I mounted the ballasts on vertical surfaces to minimize the chance for moisture penetration. On the driver side, I mounted to the fender near the battery. On the passenger side, I mounted to the radiator support. I determined the mounting locations based on the grounding points which limit where you can mount the ballasts due to wire length.
4) Mounting the ballasts and determining the locations takes the longest. Everything else is just a matter of plugging and refastening.
5) I used the factor grounding points. Driver side is near the battery. Passenger side is to the right of the washer fluid tank, towards the engine block.
6) Test fit all of your wires/connections before finalizing your ballast mount location. Make sure all the wires that need to be plugged into the ballast can reach the connection point.
7) The first and last thing that you remove/install should be the negative battery terminal.
I ordered the 35w 8000k kit to match the LED parking lights and DTRL's I ordered from CSJumper. In retrospect, I think the 6000k would've worked as well. Ah well, it still looks sick and the light output is head & shoulders better than the stock halogens. Once I buttoned everything up, I fired up the Taco and tested both the low/hi beams and everything worked flawlessly.
I would highly recommend this kit to anyone looking to retrofit to HID without using a projector kit. The price kicks ass and Paul is awesome with his customer service. Needless to say, the quality of the kit will only make itself apparent in time, but based on what I've seen of it (I do commercial lighting for a living), the components are high quality and should provide excellent service. I lucked out and did not need to adjust the height of my lights. If you do have to do this, I would recommend you err on the safe side and aim low.
Unfortunately I didn't take a whole lot of pics of the install due to the following reasons: It went really fast, and it was raining. I can go back and take pics of the mounting locations if you really need to see them. Here are the pics of the before & after:
I have not taken a light/lumen meter to it, but I would say a 50% increase in photopic lumen levels would not be surprising with the visual effect lumens being even higher due to the color temperature.