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what is the difference between fx-r and mini d2s

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Old 04-07-2012, 01:59 PM   #1
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what is the difference between fx-r and mini d2s

debating on which i wanna get for my 2012 tacoma and was looking for your guys help on what the difference is between the two set up
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:07 PM   #2
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anyone?
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:14 PM   #3
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Fxr is a larger projector, requiring drilling into the headlight assembly to install. The D2S is a smaller projector that doesnt require any drilling, but won't get as wide as the Fxr.

I'd recommend the mini H1 though...best of both worlds
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konaborne View Post
Fxr is a larger projector, requiring drilling into the headlight assembly to install. The D2S is a smaller projector that doesnt require any drilling, but won't get as wide as the Fxr.

I'd recommend the mini H1 though...best of both worlds
so the difference is the wideness of the light projected
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:04 AM   #5
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kona is right, i believe the mini h1's only have like a foot on each side less spread on the sides, d2s have even smaller, h1's are the way to go if you dont want to hack away at your head light
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:47 PM   #6
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Personally, I would go with the FX-R. Did the first retrofit with the Morimoto Minis - granted, I did the work last year with what was the 1.0 version. On install, the ring that aligns the projector in the oem bulb slots broke. In both housings. Sub-par metallurgy. Six months goes by, and I notice that the output of the drivers side is drastically less than the right...open up the headlight to diagnose, and find a nice surprise! The chrome plating inside the bowl has completely burned off and flakes are obstructing the bulb. Oh, and the rings that hold the bulb in have fused/corroded on both projectors too.

Called TRS up and explained my situation. Apparently this has been a known issue for quite some time. About a month after I bought my components, TRS began to advise against running 50W setups through the minis - not enough surface area to effectively dissipate the heat generated. TRS discounted me a set of FX-Rs, with Osram 45122+ bulbs @ 4300k. So much better! Retrofit took about a day, with much of that time spent waiting for paint to cure. I'd rate it about a 6 out of ten beer project. Yes, it was a little nerve wracking to take a hole saw to me headlight bulbs, but the results are totally worth it.

I feel as though the FX-Rs have superior design, optics and performance. The bulb retention setup on the minis was poorly engineered. It looks like they may have revised this with the latest revision - not sure. Not bashing them - they were easy to install. Just offering my input so others can potentially avoid the cost and frustration of retrofitting twice.

Any questions, feel free to ask.

Jake
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeverich View Post
Personally, I would go with the FX-R. Did the first retrofit with the Morimoto Minis - granted, I did the work last year with what was the 1.0 version. On install, the ring that aligns the projector in the oem bulb slots broke. In both housings. Sub-par metallurgy. Six months goes by, and I notice that the output of the drivers side is drastically less than the right...open up the headlight to diagnose, and find a nice surprise! The chrome plating inside the bowl has completely burned off and flakes are obstructing the bulb. Oh, and the rings that hold the bulb in have fused/corroded on both projectors too.

Called TRS up and explained my situation. Apparently this has been a known issue for quite some time. About a month after I bought my components, TRS began to advise against running 50W setups through the minis - not enough surface area to effectively dissipate the heat generated. TRS discounted me a set of FX-Rs, with Osram 45122+ bulbs @ 4300k. So much better! Retrofit took about a day, with much of that time spent waiting for paint to cure. I'd rate it about a 6 out of ten beer project. Yes, it was a little nerve wracking to take a hole saw to me headlight bulbs, but the results are totally worth it.

I feel as though the FX-Rs have superior design, optics and performance. The bulb retention setup on the minis was poorly engineered. It looks like they may have revised this with the latest revision - not sure. Not bashing them - they were easy to install. Just offering my input so others can potentially avoid the cost and frustration of retrofitting twice.

Any questions, feel free to ask.

Jake
thanks for the input man helped me alot
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:06 PM   #8
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No problem...like I said, it was no fun to do things twice. Actually, wasn't all that bad. The end result is worth it. Oh, and for bulbs I would go with Osram 45122+. I ran Morimoto 6000k's in the minis. The difference is incredible. Found the 6000ks too be far to blue for my taste. Color rendering and output is remarkable with 4300k. They're not cheap - but they are worth it. The color flicker is pretty bitchin as well.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeverich View Post
No problem...like I said, it was no fun to do things twice. Actually, wasn't all that bad. The end result is worth it. Oh, and for bulbs I would go with Osram 45122+. I ran Morimoto 6000k's in the minis. The difference is incredible. Found the 6000ks too be far to blue for my taste. Color rendering and output is remarkable with 4300k. They're not cheap - but they are worth it. The color flicker is pretty bitchin as well.
what do u mean by color flicker?
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:35 PM   #10
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Try searching for it on here, hard for me to give a good description. Basically, the light is refracted within a small band along your cutoff line - forming a "rainbow". Like I said, try search - the concepts have been erased from my memory banks...
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeverich View Post
Try searching for it on here, hard for me to give a good description. Basically, the light is refracted within a small band along your cutoff line - forming a "rainbow". Like I said, try search - the concepts have been erased from my memory banks...



Kind of a bad pic for it, but there's a band of color that goes across the cutoff on these projectors. That's why sometimes when you're driving by cars with them from a distance it looks like they have purple or deep blue headlights, but change to white as you drive by


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