Switchback LED problem

Here's the scenario, I've changed my rear turn signals lights to LED's and attached 50W 6ohm load resistors to both sides; they work fine. Then I changed to switchback LED's to the front turn signals and applied the same load resistors, the result; my fuses blew out.

Can someone help?

 

The led is wired wrong. Your sending a positive to a negative contact and blowing fuses. Happens with a lot of cheaper swutchbacks that I've seen.

 

If the LEDs are going in the DRL/blinker, you need a 3157 Base with CK wiring.

 

It's not the bulb. His fits its the way that it is wired. There are cheaper leds that have the same base but when you pop them in they pop fuses. There are also ones like the ones I carry that look exactly the same but are wired different thus not popping fuses.

 

Thanks for the input, I'll try reversing the position of the bulbs and see if that fixes the problem.

 

Hence why I said, "Ck wiring"

 

Here's an update; the switchbacks are online after reversing the polarity I have not installed the resistors yet but there is a new problem. DTRL illuminates yellow instead of white, but turn signals light up as yellow.

 

Pm sent

 

I have the same problem with tomcat..... I have 4 set of switchbacks and 2 sets light up white and blinks white, and the other 2 sets light up amber and blink amber. I have the resistors hooked up and tried reversing the bulbs but they dont light up at all.

 

Can some post pictures of their mods?
I purchased the bulb but wondering where to install the resistors.
or is there a way to intall the switchbacks without resistors?
My truck has only 2 wires going to the DTRL bulbs

 

You can install the switch backs to make sure they light up without the resistors.

RE: resistors.
The resistors are used to solve a signal light flashing problem, called hyper flash. The resistor is connected between the positive lead to the signal light and ground. It will produce a fair amount of heat so clamping or taping it to the plastic of the light housing is not a good idea. Clamp it to metal is much better. It is creating the same amount of current draw as a regular filament bulb does.
The flasher unit will flash rapidly if one of your filament bulbs is blown, because the current draw is much less than it should be. With LED lights,the current draw is typically 1/10th of a filament bulb, so the flasher unit will indicate you have a burnt out bulb.

A better method, but more technically challenging is to modify the sensing resistor in the flasher circuit. If you have a 2005-2011 truck, check out this thread.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...placement-stock-drl-flasher-no-resistors.html


RE: switchback problems:
some folks are having problems with the switch backs because they are designed to take advantage of a hi, and low circuit of a 3157 bulb wiring.
the normal bulb has two filaments in it, one that lights up 5x brighter than the other. The front DRL//signal light on the Tacoma only has two wires, a ground, and the wire to light up the high circuit. It is also a CK socket that is wired differently than the rear brakes/ signals that use the regular 3157/3156 socket.
Some switchbacks are expecting the white LEDs to operate from the low circuit, and the amber LEDs to operate from the hi circuit. Since there is only one wire to your front signals, so only one part of the switch back works. That is one of the reasons some LED distributors let you know that they won't work on DRL sockets.

 

Mine work great. They are a clean white with amber turns. To get them work properly there is a some minor wiring that included in every set of leds ordered. The above is all right information. And couldnt agree more that is why I have my dtrl leds specially made.

 

This guy knows what hes doing. Gotten multiple LEDs including the switchbacks. Havent had a problem yet. His switchbacks do have very minor wiring to do but in the end it a great product.

 

Thank you guys for responding. That makes sense.
Can you put pictures of how your wires look?
I purchased my LED bulbs from JDMTOY but there were no instructions on what to do or if I needed additional wiring.
Any suggestion on where I should purchase the bulbs from?

 

I'm having the same problem as the quote. Please help about to pull my hair out

 

Can you provide the url link to the LED bulb you are using?

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacoma-marketplace/176932-jumpers-leds.html

 

Ok I think I have figured out my problem the CK sockets on my truck only have 2 wire leads power and ground. Top left side is hot and bottom left & right are ground. After testing my 3175 CK switchback LED lights with gator clips and a 9v battery I found that no matter the grounded side if one or the other power leads is energized then the LED lights up either Amber or White and if both LED power leads are energized at the same time then only amber lights up. I have tryed to reconfigure the leads on the LED lights to no avail, also I have reconfigured a standard set of 3157 LED switchbacks I bought by mistake and still no go. I am thinking that I need a separate hot to the DTRL sock (top right side) that will engage the right side of the socket only when the DTRLs or turn signals are in use, This will make the switchback feature work as the left side of the socket is the side energized when the flashers, DTRL and turn signals are in use. The problem is I’m not sure how or where to pull the new hot needed from. Has anyone completed this mod and if so how, please help!

 

the challenge is separating the daytime light function from the signal function, when both are combined on the same wire. V-Leds makes a separate control box to run their DRL compatible switchbacks to do just that, such that when the DL output is cyling on/off the ambe rleds come on, and when the DRL has been on for more than 2 seconds then the white led output is on.