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Old 06-10-2012, 10:12 AM   #1
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Fj aux switch question

Hey guys I was just installing a set of hid aux lights using the fj switch in my Tacoma .... Flipped them on to test ... Capacitor on one of the wires of the switch blew ... How do I fix this?


Problem solved thanks to Rich91710.

Just a heads up any who use the FJ switch.

There is a capacitor or diode on one of the wires of some of the switches that are out there. Mine had one, Rich91710 did not. If you f*** up connecting the relay you will blow up whatever the thing is. So far no issues running less that item and I have been keeping an eye on it and I will put a volt meter to it after I am home from being on call for the week.

Also if anyone needs help with the wiring of the switch PM me, oddly easy enough to wire when you are being brainless =D
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:30 PM   #2
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bueller?
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:08 PM   #3
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nah its the wire of pin #4 has a little black shrink wrap piece that blew up... blew a fuse and that.... put a 10amp fuse in and no capacitor. Now it works, think I have anything to worry about?
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnwTaco View Post
put a 10amp fuse in ...... think I have anything to worry about?
Yes.

Increasing the size of a fuse because the old one blew is one of the dumbest things you can do to an electrical system.

If the wire gauge and switch contacts are not rated for 10a, they have become your fuse.

Are you sure it was a capacitor and not a diode? Relay circuits will often have a diode connected reverse-bias across the relay coil, and if connected backwards they will blow the fuse and the diode will usually smoke.

Seriously... not really sure what you have, and it's not possible to troubleshoot without knowing. My FJ fog light switch came with a 6-wire harness, but no diode or capacitor.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:23 PM   #5
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the fj switch comes with a 6-wire harness, on pin 4 of the harness there is a piece of black shrink wrap on the wire... the one I used for my dust light also had this and I have no idea why it was there. And I'll be honest I have no idea if it was a capacitor or a diode.

I use 16 gauge wire for all my wiring, this diagram


3a fuse blew at pin 3 wire, and whatever is in wire off pin 4 blew

A diode does make more sense there though then a capacitor, but to be honest I'm not very good at electrical stuff. so
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:40 PM   #6
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The thing to keep in mind is that the factory system use ground-true switching.
The relay has switched power, and the switch applies the ground.
Reverse your hot and ground connections and you'll see the originally intended configuration.... Green/Purple goes to ground and the relay coil connects to switched power.
I'd have to look at my switch to positively say how pin 2 should be connected.

It COULD have been an electrolytic capacitor, designed to smooth the power feed to the coil, but that would not be a common use.
Either the diode or electrolytic would need to be tied across both the hot and ground.
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:03 PM   #7
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Just a reminder for future reference (OP resolved his problem)....

On the Bosch "cube" relays, there are two configurations, 4-pin and 5 pin.
They are the same except the 5-pin has a pin 87a.

The pinouts are as follows:

85 - Coil connection 1, goes to dash switch
86 - Coil connection 2, goes to ground
87 - Relay Normally-Open contact, goes to Aux lights
87a - Relay Normally-Closed contact, not normally used, not present on 4-pin
30 - Relay Common, goes to main fuse to battery

It is a VERY common mistake to reverse the wiring on pin's 30 and 85. I've seen it a hundred times.
What happens is the battery holds the relay closed (and eventually drains the battery), and the switch ends up directly controlling the lights. It effectively bypasses the relay.

To test for this mistake, put your hand on the relay while someone operates the switch. You should feel and hear the relay operate.
Then, while holding the relay, disconnect the main fuse. You should NOT feel the relay operate.
With the main fuse removed, have someone operate the dash switch... you should feel the relay operate.

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Old 06-13-2012, 12:59 PM   #8
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Rich helped me out big time there, thanks again bud definitely got a lot of rep for that.
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Old 06-13-2012, 06:46 PM   #9
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No problem at all.

You owe me a Guinness
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:09 PM   #10
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next time were close by you got it
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Old 12-22-2013, 10:16 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post
Just a reminder for future reference (OP resolved his problem)....

On the Bosch "cube" relays, there are two configurations, 4-pin and 5 pin.
They are the same except the 5-pin has a pin 87a.

The pinouts are as follows:

85 - Coil connection 1, goes to dash switch
86 - Coil connection 2, goes to ground
87 - Relay Normally-Open contact, goes to Aux lights
87a - Relay Normally-Closed contact, not normally used, not present on 4-pin
30 - Relay Common, goes to main fuse to battery

It is a VERY common mistake to reverse the wiring on pin's 30 and 85. I've seen it a hundred times.
What happens is the battery holds the relay closed (and eventually drains the battery), and the switch ends up directly controlling the lights. It effectively bypasses the relay.

To test for this mistake, put your hand on the relay while someone operates the switch. You should feel and hear the relay operate.
Then, while holding the relay, disconnect the main fuse. You should NOT feel the relay operate.
With the main fuse removed, have someone operate the dash switch... you should feel the relay operate.

Just wanted to thank you for this, i had some weird smell and dim light happening and I found out i swapped pins 30/85 on my relay. No more smell and light output is greatly improved.
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