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Novice seeking help with Hella 500s how to wire etc...

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Old 06-15-2012, 09:56 PM   #1
Molon Labe [OP] Molon Labe is offline
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Novice seeking help with Hella 500s how to wire etc...

Hello guys,
Well it has been several years (like 12) since I had these Hella 500 wired in my Jeep. When I sold the jeep, I removed the lights and I have no idea how I had them wired back then.

So I am working on a Satoshi Mod for my 2012 DC TRD Off road 4x4 V6. I looked over several threads but everything I found was referring to HID wiring.

Here is what I want to do and some specifics:
I will be building my own mount for two Hella 500 12v 55w lights. I plan on getting the switch (to be mounted OEM style) from here:
http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=VVPZCZL-1ZL

I only have the Hella 500 lights, I do not recall if the lights came with or required any type of relay or fuse.

I want to be able to wire these lights so that I am using an unused fuse in the fuse box.

So I guess what I am asking for is photos and directions on where and what needs to be wired to accomplish this. I also need to know which switch to order, here are my options
V1D1BC0B -SPST OFF/ON -

Standard red upper LED that is ON when the switch is turned ON.
Three terminal switch with no rear barriers. Use 1/4" female disconnects or VCH housing. (Packard terminals for the rear housing are sold separately)

V1D1GHTB -SPST OFF/ON -

Green upper LED is independently wired
Red super bright lower LED is ON when the switch is turned ON
Four Terminal switch with no rear barriers between the terminals.
Use insulated 1/4" female disconnects or the VCH rear connector housing. (Packard terminals for the rear housing are sold separately)


V1D1JHNB- SPST OFF/ON -

Green upper LED is ON when the switch is turned ON.
Amber lower LED is independently wired.
Each LED has it's own ground terminal.
Five terminal switch with no rear barriers between terminals
Use insulated 1/4" female disconnects or the VCH rear connector housing. (Packard terminals for the rear housing are sold separately)
This switch has the same terminal layout and lighting configuration used by ARB

V1D1FHNB- SPST OFF/ON -

Green upper LED is independently wired.
Amber lower LED is ON when the switch is turned ON.
Each LED has it's own ground terminal.
Five terminal switch with no rear barriers between terminals
Use insulated 1/4" female disconnects or the VCH rear connector housing. (Packard terminals for the rear housing are sold separately)

VDD2NNB -DPDT ON/ON -

Both amber LEDs are independently wired
Each LED has it's own ground terminals.
Ten terminal switch with no rear barriers between terminals
Use insulated 1/4" female disconnects or the VC1-01 connector housing (Packard terminals for the rear housing are sold separately).


V6D2UHNB SPDT ON/OFF/ON

Green upper LED
Amber lower LED
Both LEDs are independently wired and have separate ground terminals.
This switch could be installed upside down to place the amber LED at top, green LED at the bottom
Seven terminal switch with no rear barriers between the terminals
Use insulated female disconnects or the VC1-01 connector housing (Packard terminals for the rear housing are sold separately)
Verify that a SPDT switch is suitable for your application prior to purchasing this switch. If a DPDT switch is required use the VJD2UHTB or similar VJD model switch.


Switch Specifications:

12 volt switches are rated 20 amps.
24 volt versions are rated 15 amps.
Panel cutout required is .830 by 1.45 inches

On a side note, I will also be wiring some bed lights and need to know similar information for the bed lights.

Basically, am I suppose to run hot lead from light to fuse box, then run negative to switch and then ground? what about the LEDs in the switch, how are they powered? I know this must sound very basic to some of you but I honestly have not messed with 12v electrical in quite some time.

Any help would be great.
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:39 AM   #2
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You will need a SPST 15amp switch, not sure which one from the selection based on the fact that I dont know if those will fit in a stock hole.

The switch will need three things, the ground to the switch is so the LED can light up.
1. Ground
2. Hot fused power
3. output to relay

You will need a relay to wire the lights up, putting any good amount of power through a switch is never a good idea, thats why you use a relay.
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:24 AM   #3
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V1D1JHNB- SPST OFF/ON -

I would order that one ^^^

Separate ground terminals for both LEDs will allow you to wire the amber LED to the dash lighting and have it work with the dimmer.

I would get a relay and inline fuse for under the hood and keep all the high power wiring there. Then you just have one wire going through the firewall.

You will need to tap the interior fuse block for a low amp wire to run the relay's coil. I used the parking light fuse and one of these :

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...entifier=32416

not sure how you would use an existing fuse. It may be possible, but it's going to be complicated for sure. The way mine is wired the parking lights have to be on before the lights will work. They can't be left on this way, the truck turns the factory lights off automatically.

Any auto parts store should have an auxillary light wiring kit. That's the easiest way to deal with this. It will come with wire, relay, and a switch. Most kits should be rated to handle at least two 55W lights. There will be no problem substituting your fancy switch in place of the cheapie that comes in the kit.

You should end up with TWO added fuses. One should be a 10 or 15 amp under the hood, the other no more than 5 amps (1 amp will do), installed in an add a fuse in the interior fuse block.
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Molon Labe View Post
12 volt switches are rated 20 amps.
24 volt versions are rated 15 amps.
Panel cutout required is .830 by 1.45 inches

On a side note, I will also be wiring some bed lights and need to know similar information for the bed lights.

Basically, am I suppose to run hot lead from light to fuse box, then run negative to switch and then ground? what about the LEDs in the switch, how are they powered? I know this must sound very basic to some of you but I honestly have not messed with 12v electrical in quite some time.

Any help would be great.
You can't do it that way. The LED isn't going to work, I don't think with negative switching. And the fusebox probably can't handle an additional 10-15 amps on any given position. The factory doesn't give much margin for error with those setups. You do not want to melt the fuse block down or start a fire. The switch you have listed is rated to handle the load. But it's not typically done that way. Most of the time we switch the hot side of the circuit. A relay would make it cleaner, and arguably safer.

One LED is powered from the parking light circuit so that you can see where it is in the dark. The other just requires a ground and will come on when a hot lead is switched on to the output of the switch (lights or relay).

Any way you go, you need a FUSE installed at the battery.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:21 PM   #5
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Guys, thanks for the input. Seems like the relay is the safer and better way to go. I will get on this and let you know how it works out. I really appreciate all the input.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:33 AM   #6
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guys looking at relays, will I need spst or spdt. the switch will be the spst that was recommended. the switch will have one led on with the interior dash lights then another led on when the switch is on.

thanks in advance
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Molon Labe View Post
guys looking at relays, will I need spst or spdt. the switch will be the spst that was recommended. the switch will have one led on with the interior dash lights then another led on when the switch is on.

thanks in advance
Either SPST or SPDT will work.
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